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Little Dot Tube Amps: Vacuum Tube Rolling Guide - Page 456

post #6826 of 7488

I have new NOS Mullard 5654's installed into my Little Dot 1+ this evening and I am sitting here listening to Amon Tobin's Isam Live - the bass / stereo separation is absolutely astounding!!

 

http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y415/davidclapp/headfi-audirvana-bluecat_zps17e6f7a5.jpg

I'm listening through a set of Sennheiser HD650's and I am actually wondering how much better I can get this system to sound :):o2smile:

 

Is there any particular direction I could go push things EVEN further?

 

Is there a new level of amp I could be moving towards that other consider to be the next step up?

 

Its mostly EDM as I am a self confessed basshead....

 

8bitBarry

post #6827 of 7488
Quote:
Originally Posted by hypnos1 View Post
 

Hey mordy (and iluvmusic2)...you have a lot to answer for! Being more than happy with my encapsulated (laptop-like) external power supply, your experiments with PC PSs have had me itching to try something else...Looking around, I found a good deal on a used "medical grade" 15V 10A unit that seems quite interesting, and which in theory should be much better than my current choice...perhaps?!

It's made by AstroDyne, who appear to be quite a specialist outfit, so it will be very interesting to see what the outcome is once I get my eager fingers on it, lol!

 

Since your current setup is rated at only 6A, I think it is wise to increase the capacity to at least 7.5A. But I very seriously doubt that anything over that will make any difference.

 

A pair of 6AS7's draw 5A to run the heaters and this is all that they will take, no matter how much is available. Yes, of course, the PS should have a capacity of more than 5A. These tubes probably draw a bit more than 5A at start-up and further, it is generally not a good idea to run a power supply at maximum output. Most things fail when pushed to their limit.

 

LD used a factor of about 1.5 in designing both their driver and power heater circuits, and therefore, 1.5 X 5A = 7.5A is plenty, thus my recent recommendation of 8A. And I am sure it will sound just as good as 100A. :)

post #6828 of 7488
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8bitBarry View Post
 

I have new NOS Mullard 5654's installed into my Little Dot 1+ this evening and I am sitting here listening to Amon Tobin's Isam Live - the bass / stereo separation is absolutely astounding!!

 

Is there any particular direction I could go push things EVEN further?

 

Is there a new level of amp I could be moving towards that other consider to be the next step up?

 

Most of us would suggest double triodes and/or a pair of C3g's.

post #6829 of 7488

6SN7M ... metal can 6SN7's.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAIR-2-6SN7M-RCA-NOS-BRASILIA-MOST-UNIQUE-6SN7-VERY-RARE-LIMITED-SUPPLY-/231280622226?

 

It is my understanding that these are simply 6CG7's installed in metal cans. And a pair can be yours for only $168!! :)

post #6830 of 7488

 Personally i would not bother with that type of PS too much work for me.I will get one of those PC PS and be done with it it's already in case.If you really want a PS that looks good just cut those wires short install some type of Female connectors(Maybe a Binding Post, DC Jack, XLR and some other schiit that i don't know) and LED panels  on the PC PS case and they will look pretty(I know you're all about looks).Sound wise PC PS vs. Walwart PS no comment.Did you like that PS because it's MEDICAL GRADE?:biggrin:

post #6831 of 7488
That AstroDyne power supply would actually be perfect for the job at hand, since all it is designed to do is output 15V/10A. There are no other voltages floating and you don't have to jumper a PG line to get it to fire up or dummy loads that just create heat...

You others be very wary of the $30 PC power supplies, I've seen more than I want to take out main boards...
beerchug.gif
post #6832 of 7488

Hi TD,

 

I meant a $60 PS on sale for $30 LOL. With 2000 feedback and most people very happy I would not worry.....

post #6833 of 7488
Quote:
Originally Posted by gibosi View Post
 

 

Most of us would suggest double triodes and/or a pair of C3g's.

Could you elaborate further? I am fairly new to all this. I googled C3G's and I see they need a convertor to fit? What do you mean by double triodes - ECC83's or similar?

Can I fit these to a Little Dot 1+?

post #6834 of 7488
Quote:
Originally Posted by mordy View Post
 

Hi h 1,

 

Looks like massive heat sinks, but if you are going to make a case for it, perhaps adding a fan wouldn't hurt. As far as I know, all the PC power supplies I've seen use fans. The one I am using now even has two fans.

 

I awaiting other people's impressions using higher grade power supplies to see if they concur with my impression.

 

Last week I saw a sale on a 430W PS for $16 shipped at Newegg, but I did not want to post a link because a quick search revealed a 18% failure rate. It should be possible to get a good 400-500W PS for around $30 with a rebate.

 

Hi mordy.

 

As I don't think heat is going to be too much of a problem, I shall try to skip the fan(s) - don't really want motors running in the vicinity, if not necessary lol!

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by gibosi View Post
 

 

Since your current setup is rated at only 6A, I think it is wise to increase the capacity to at least 7.5A. But I very seriously doubt that anything over that will make any difference.

 

A pair of 6AS7's draw 5A to run the heaters and this is all that they will take, no matter how much is available. Yes, of course, the PS should have a capacity of more than 5A. These tubes probably draw a bit more than 5A at start-up and further, it is generally not a good idea to run a power supply at maximum output. Most things fail when pushed to their limit.

 

LD used a factor of about 1.5 in designing both their driver and power heater circuits, and therefore, 1.5 X 5A = 7.5A is plenty, thus my recent recommendation of 8A. And I am sure it will sound just as good as 100A. :)

 

Hi g.

 

I hear you, mon ami, but what's another 2A amongst friends?! Will be nice to have a little extra in hand ;)...(Especially at the price...$15!).

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by i luvmusic 2 View Post
 

 Personally i would not bother with that type of PS too much work for me.I will get one of those PC PS and be done with it it's already in case.If you really want a PS that looks good just cut those wires short install some type of Female connectors(Maybe a Binding Post, DC Jack, XLR and some other schiit that i don't know) and LED panels  on the PC PS case and they will look pretty(I know you're all about looks).Sound wise PC PS vs. Walwart PS no comment.Did you like that PS because it's MEDICAL GRADE?:biggrin:

 

Hi ilm2.

 

"Too much work"? You are kidding me, aren't you?...Considering your (mammoth) jobs of re-housing amps, lol! Would be kid's play to you, no? :wink_face:.

 

Why did I choose it?...Medical grade? YES! Looks really well made? YES! Extremely good spec (TD confirms)? YES! Silly price?($15)...YES! A no-brainer, I thought lol...:D.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post

That AstroDyne power supply would actually be perfect for the job at hand, since all it is designed to do is output 15V/10A. There are no other voltages floating and you don't have to jumper a PG line to get it to fire up or dummy loads that just create heat...

You others be very wary of the $30 PC power supplies, I've seen more than I want to take out main boards...
beerchug.gif

 

Many thanks, TD, for putting my mind at ease....not money wasted, then...phew! :p.

post #6835 of 7488

Hi folks...yes, it's me again!...was supposed to be devoting more time to the garden/fish/little woman, remember?...What is it about this thread that I just can't seem to stay away?...Ah yes...it's so WONDERFUL lol!!

 

Anyway, just thought I'd post a pic of my (meant to be last) spare Chatham that just arrived...complete with long hairline crack/scratch near the top of the tube, easily visible in the photo.

 

I have a horrible feeling that repeated heating/cooling is not going to be conducive to a very long life?! :frown:. Anyway, I've emailed the seller, and hopefully may have some redress if the worst happens...who knows?

 

 

On this unhappy note I shall say cheerio (for now!) and get back to my garden......etc etc

post #6836 of 7488

It's like hes sending you all his bad tubes or something or he packing them wrong. that sucks that you been getting damaged tube's. You might in up having to try a different seller.


Edited by genclaymore - 7/12/14 at 8:04am
post #6837 of 7488
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8bitBarry View Post
 

Could you elaborate further? I am fairly new to all this. I googled C3G's and I see they need a convertor to fit? What do you mean by double triodes - ECC83's or similar?

Can I fit these to a Little Dot 1+?

 

Yes, C3g's require adapters to work in an LD. And yes, an ECC83 is a double triode. However, I believe the ECC88 and 6SN7 have been more popular in this thread. And yes, double triodes also require "adapters." 

 

You asked if there were any tubes better than Mullard 5654. And yes, IMHO, there are lots of tubes that are significantly better. Some, like the 6HM5 are "plug and play", and others, such as the 6SN7 require a rather complicated "adapter". To answer your question thoroughly, "Is there any particular direction I could go push things EVEN further?", requires more than a single posting.

 

I suggest you skim through the last 456 pages of this forum. There is a wealth of information regarding the pros and cons of the many tubes we have tried and how to use them. Having done that, you will then be able to make an informed decision regarding how you wish to "push things EVEN further", and if you do, we will be happy to help you with the details.

 

Cheers

post #6838 of 7488
Quote:
Originally Posted by hypnos1 View Post
 

Hi folks...yes, it's me again!...was supposed to be devoting more time to the garden/fish/little woman, remember?...What is it about this thread that I just can't seem to stay away?...Ah yes...it's so WONDERFUL lol!!

 

Anyway, just thought I'd post a pic of my (meant to be last) spare Chatham that just arrived...complete with long hairline crack/scratch near the top of the tube, easily visible in the photo.

 

I have a horrible feeling that repeated heating/cooling is not going to be conducive to a very long life?! :frown:. Anyway, I've emailed the seller, and hopefully may have some redress if the worst happens...who knows?

 

 

On this unhappy note I shall say cheerio (for now!) and get back to my garden......etc etc

Sorry about your tube that's too bad it's a nice tube.But you know what you can do if it's not working you can put a LED inside the tube and sell it as a show piece.


Edited by i luvmusic 2 - 7/12/14 at 7:00pm
post #6839 of 7488

  I supposed to be doing some research about the CRACK build but each time i'am in that page i got chill and goosebumps seems like most people there are either millioner or Lottory winner they spend tones of $ for the CRACK.Expensive Attenuators,not soo cheap Capacitors not to mention Very Expensive TUBES.As far as i know the most expensive tube that i saw for the LD is a pair of C3g's now it makes me wonder how well the Modified LD compete with the CRACK.   

post #6840 of 7488
Quote:
Originally Posted by genclaymore View Post
 

It's like hes sending you all his bad tubes or something or he packing them wrong. that sucks that you been getting damaged tube's. You might in up having to try a different seller.

 

Hi genclaymore (not part of a famous Scotch Whisky family, are you lol?!)

 

It looks like it was a genuine oversight by the seller - he's offered me a refund if I want it...can't ask for more than that, really. BUT...as it looks more like a scratch than a crack (fingers crossed!), I might just take a gamble and cover it with some special glass-mending glue, and hope for the best - the tube sounds so GOOD!...this nos tube, together with the nos Tung Sol/Chatham, seems to be giving a bit more "bite" than the two used Chathams. But perhaps things might even out with more burn-in - unless 'N'os is actually better than used os. Then again, as we have found throughout our extensive rolling, there can be noticeable differences between tubes from even the same batch, in a way that seems to defy all logic!

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by i luvmusic 2 View Post
 

Sorry about your tube that's too bad it's a nice tube.But you know what you can do if it's not working you can put a LED inside the tube and sell it as a show piece.

 

Well, ilm2, as mentioned above, it looks like things just might be OK...and I shan't need to be making "pretty things" - much as I do indeed love 'em, lol!!

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by i luvmusic 2 View Post
 

  I supposed to be doing some research about the CRACK build but each time i'am in that page i got chill and goosebumps seems like most people there are either millioner or Lottory winner they spend tones of $ for the CRACK.Expensive Attenuators,not soo cheap Capacitors not to mention Very Expensive TUBES.As far as i know the most expensive tube that i saw for the LD is a pair of C3g's now it makes me wonder how well the Modified LD compete with the CRACK.   

 

As I mentioned a while ago, someone did a comparison between the Crack (with upgraded caps!) and the LD MKIII (with stock tubes!), and felt there was not a great deal between them. And given my amp (the MKIV SE, of course) with C3GS's and Chathams is WAY ahead of stock, I would suspect you'd have to spend BIG bucks on all those things you mentioned for possibly only minimal improvement over said LD. Sure would LOVE you, or someone else with the MKIII or IV to do an in-depth shoot-out...Me? I'm not even going to consider giving it a try...my set-up is delivering everything I could ever want. Am not even going to consider the Senn HD 700 or 800...I am certain the 650s are performing to a standard very rarely bettered, and definitely beyond what even the Sennheiser people thought possible from such humble equipment. I firmly believe (IMHO) that although very well-liked, they are capable of far more than generally realised. :gs1000smile:

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