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Little Dot Tube Amps: Vacuum Tube Rolling Guide - Page 447

post #6691 of 10500

Much gibosi pictures in the Ohio meet thread, we can now all put a face to a name.

:beerchug:

post #6692 of 10500

It occurs to me that gold plated sockets might be a bit more slippery, with a little less friction than non-plated sockets, and this might be a contributing factor. However, using a sewing needle to try to tighten the sockets sounds like a good idea.

 

And TD, I couldn't get an 8-lead miniature threaded through an octal base! There was noway that I was going to try 9 leads compressed down to 8! lol :)

 

I have only listened this tube for a few minutes, shortly after putting it in the amp for the first time, but I think it sounds pretty good. But of course, it needs to cook in for a day or so......

 

Cheers

post #6693 of 10500
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post
 

Much gibosi pictures in the Ohio meet thread, we can now all put a face to a name.

:beerchug:

+1

post #6694 of 10500
Quote:
Originally Posted by mordy View Post
 

Hi Gibosi,

 

And I thought that all 9pin socket extenders were the same....The ones I bought were the least expensive (4 for $6.59 incl shipping) but don't look to be high quality and are only rated for 200 uses (whatever that means).

 

Anyhow, how does the 6N16B-VR sound compared to the Sylvania 7963 and the Raytheon 6832?

 

Hi I luvmusic2,

 

I have an extender adapter for octal tubes to 9pin that is too tight, and I have to push very hard to get the octal tube in all the way, and use even more force to pull it out. Do you have any advice how to make the adapter less tight fitting?

I used a AWG 8 solid copper for my Rocket Launcher and it made my Octal socket loosed.

Perhaps too loosed so maybe a AWG 10 0r 12 sollid copper and wiggle it until it start to loosen up just don't over do it it might get too loosed.That's what happen to mine.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post
 

Y'all need to build up one of these... :D

:beerchug:

   You should buy bunch of those miniature tubes and start putting them in your Octal base and sell them to us but then again i have my Rocket Launcher so i don't need one for now,Just don't put made in Chinada.:biggrin: 


Edited by i luvmusic 2 - 6/30/14 at 6:56pm
post #6695 of 10500
Quote:
Originally Posted by gibosi View Post
 

It occurs to me that gold plated sockets might be a bit more slippery, with a little less friction than non-plated sockets, and this might be a contributing factor. However, using a sewing needle to try to tighten the sockets sounds like a good idea.

 

And TD, I couldn't get an 8-lead miniature threaded through an octal base! There was noway that I was going to try 9 leads compressed down to 8! lol :)

 

I have only listened this tube for a few minutes, shortly after putting it in the amp for the first time, but I think it sounds pretty good. But of course, it needs to cook in for a day or so......

 

Cheers

I've done the needle before  back when we used to used the Vector 7 pin test/saver  and IMO it's easier to widen the slot than making it tighter with the needle but it can be done watch those fingers tho. 

post #6696 of 10500
Shipped some tubes to a fellow canadian and I'm ashamed to say it cost me more than shipping to the US. I have had tubes shipped from across the sea at 2$ for the package and it cost me 13 to ship a few provinces over. Rant over...
post #6697 of 10500
Welcome to the Canadian Postal Service!

$13 tracked and it still took a week to get there, wait till you want to send the same tracked package to the USA... $$$ biggrin.gif
post #6698 of 10500
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post

Welcome to the Canadian Postal Service!

$13 tracked and it still took a week to get there, wait till you want to send the same tracked package to the USA... $$$ biggrin.gif

I did when i sent my Denons to Lawton Audio for mods and if i remember correctly  it cost me at least $35.00 to Rhode Island .

post #6699 of 10500
Quote:
Originally Posted by MIKELAP View Post

I did when i sent my Denons to Lawton Audio for mods and if i remember correctly  it cost me at least $35.00 to Rhode Island .
When I sent the Burson / Audeze onto the next guy in New York, the box was huge and it went by FedEx which only cost $35 as well (reimbursed by Burson) so if your sending stuff to the states it pays to take a look at the carriers. I don't want to think what the Post Office would have charged for that shipment, would have been at least double.
post #6700 of 10500

I had to send back a receiver for repair - 33 lbs. The US post office wanted around $29, UPS around $33 and FedEx around $20, using a commercial FedEx account. My son told me that I should not have insured it for $600, but just the minimum (he claims they never lose anything) which dropped the shipping to $13. Caveat emptor....

 

Seems that if you can get hold of a commercial FedEx account for heavier items, their rate would be the least expensive (only speaking about US domestic shipping, but it seems this would apply to Canada as well.)

 

I once had an experience that FedEx shipped overnight, but since I used the cheaper rates (FedEx ground) they held the package in the arriving terminal so that it took longer (!).

 

 

post #6701 of 10500

While I have yet to try to compare the Russian 6N16B-VR to the 8632 and the 7963 sub-miniatures, with something like 20 hours on this tube, I can say that this is an exceptionally fine tube. It definitely blows the American 6021 away. With a crystal clear presentation and exceptionally good imaging, multiple layers of sound, and large stage, I really like this tube. And therefore, I encourage others to try it. 

 

To help, I have put together the following translation table.

 

First, how to figure out which lead is which on the Russian tube.... There is no "larger gap" between leads 1 and 9, as there is on the 8-lead American sub-miniatures. However, there is what looks like lead # 10 that has been cut off flush with the glass. You may need a magnifying glass to see it. With my old eyes and bifocals, I do. lol And simply use that stub as your reference point to count and number the leads.


6N16B-VR                                   6DJ8/6CG7                   6SN7
1 Cathode 1                                       3                            6
2 Grid 1                                             2                            4
3 Heater                                            4                            7
4 Plate 1                                            1                            5
5 Shield                                             9                            3 tie to lead 6 (cathode 2)
6 Cathode 2                                       8                            3
7 Grid 2                                             7                            1
8 Heater                                            5                            8
9 Plate 2                                            6                            2

 

Some might notice that in the case of the 6DJ8, I have connected the triodes in reverse. That is, 6N16B-VR, triode #1 is connected to 6DJ8, triode #2, and vice versa. This was done to make sure that the 6N16B-VR shield and cathode #2 were routed to the 6DJ8 pins 8 and 9. For tubes with shields, it is necessary to tie the shield to the adjacent cathode. The other cathode will not work properly. And fortunately, the tube doesn't care which triodes you designate as #1 and #2. :)

 

post #6702 of 10500

Hi Gibosi,

 

Thanks for your schematic. Just to clarify, I would hold the tube with the leads facing down and count anti clockwise with the #1 lead to the left of the stub?

 

Waiting to hear from you about a comparison to the 6832 and 7963 before I pull the trigger.....


Edited by mordy - 7/2/14 at 12:03pm
post #6703 of 10500
Quote:
Originally Posted by mordy View Post

 

Thanks for your schematic. Just to clarify, I would hold the tube with the leads facing down and count anti clockwise with the #1 lead to the left of the stub?

 

Waiting to hear from you about a comparison to the 6832 and 7963 before I pull the trigger.....

 

You do this the same way as you would with any other tube. So as always, hold the tube upside down, and begin counting clockwise, starting with the lead to the left of the stub. If the leads are facing down, it is the mirror image. So you would count counter-clockwise, starting with the lead to the right of the stub.

post #6704 of 10500

Hello everyone, I'm back again :) in the time since I last posted here I have thoroughly been enjoying my tung sol 6f8g's with my c3g;s and sennheiser 650's. Though the other day I decided to try my denon d5000's through the amp. So I plugged in my denon's and flicked the switches on the base of the LD to lower impedance mode, and all I was hearing was major distortion. I had this problem before with the 6sn7's and thought it may be that I had a faulty jack or wire in my denon's but I tried them from other sources and they sounded fine. So I tried some more lower impedance headphone with the LD and I'm getting the same distorted results. Does anyone else have this same problem with their lower impedance headphones? I didn't get this distortion out of my denon's with the stock tubes so I'm wondering if that the 6f8g's, 6sn7's and c3g's just really dislike lower impedance headphones. Could anyone shed any light on this and suggest any way I can fix this problem?

 

Thanks

post #6705 of 10500
Switches for lower impedance mode???

Do you mean the gain jumpers? If so put them back to where they were and try the amp again. OTL amps are really not designed for low Z cans and can have trouble with some...

Since you are running unorthodox tubes gain settings might play a major factor in operation.
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