This waiting time is killing me.....
I already have the aluminum plates cut for the crack and no amp yet.
This evening I tried to mount a sub-miniature in this way, but I failed miserably when it came to putting the wires into the pins. It would seem that I am lacking the necessary dexterity and patience, or perhaps I just didn't hold my tongue the right way or say the correct words. lol :)
So as usual, I'm back to easy and ugly again. :)
I've tried to do the same This morning and i give up.
This evening, I was able to take some time to directly compare my Raytheon 6832 and Sylvania 7963. I found the sound signature of these two tubes to be quite similar with the 6832 being just a tad bit brighter. In this regard I did not prefer one over the other and consider these tubes about equal.
However, in terms of stage and imagery, they were much more different. The 6832 seemingly transports you to a performance space that is somewhat two-dimensional and flat. There is no real sense of depth or height. On the other hand, with the 7963, the performance space is wide, deep and tall. There is a palpable sense of space around the vocalists and instruments, and one can easily pinpoint their locations. For this reason, I believe the Sylvania 7963 is the better tube.
It is currently going for around $15 to $20 on eBay, quite a bit more than the 6832, at $3 to $5. And for some, it may not be worth it. After all, the 6832 is a very good tube. On the other hand, I believe the 7963 is in the same league as a pair of C3g's or a Sylvania 6SN7W which typically go for around $70. And so to my mind, the 7963 is a steal for $20. But of course, YMMV. :)
Thanks for the tips. :)
I should confess that I tried this with my 6021 after having uninstalled it from my "easy and ugly" adapter. As the ends of the leads had been wrapped and soldered, I wasn't able to completely restraighten them, and of course, this made the very difficult task of guiding the leads into the pins even more difficult....
I might try this again with clean and straight leads when I my 6N16B's arrive. However, these tubes have 9 leads, and I suspect that I will have to guide the leads for the shield and one of the cathodes into the same pin.... again, making a very difficult task just a little more difficult... Or I just might end up installing the 6N16B into a 9-pin socket saver....
All the American sub-miniature twin triodes have the same pinout. It is my understanding that the pinout was designed in this way to facilitate soldering the tube onto a circuit board, similar to an op amp. But of course, this makes it a pain to install them into the old standard 8-pin and 9-pin adapters....
But it occurs to me that one could trim the leads a bit and easily insert them into a TO-99 op amp socket. And I have been thinking that it would be slick to have a TO-99 to 8-pin octal adapter, such that we could easily plug and unplug these sub-miniatures. But I haven't quite figured out how to make one....
Hi, I'm new to tubes and wondered what pair of tubes Mullard cv4014 would replace, rear or front?
I just got my LD and I've no clue as to which are drivers or power. Are the large ones power and how do you tell what are power or driver in a sellers lists of tubes?
Thanks in advance.
I assume that you have a Little Dot MKIII or IV. These amps have four tubes. The front tubes are the driver tubes, and the rear ones the power tubes.
Which model do you have, and what are the other two tubes?
The CV4014 is a pentode of the EF91 family. Go to page 77 of this blog and look at the chart there that lists compatible tubes. In addition, download and print out the manual for your amplifier. It is a short read, but very informative. The link is at the bottom of this page:
If you have a breadboard adapter with a 9pin socket, it is easy to build a solderless adapter for the 6832 tube. You need a 9pin socket extender, some 1mm heat shrink tubing, and 0.8mm/18gauge copper wire.
Cut the copper wire into small pieces and strip off 1/4" at the end. This becomes a push pin to keep the flexible lead wedged in the socket. Before mounting the leads in the socket extender, thread on appropriate lengths of shrink wrap to insulate the leads from each other.
The metal to metal makes for a very good contact area - let's face it; all tube sockets work on this principle.
The heat shrink tubing is not shown in this picture:
With this set up you can just pull out the whole assembly with the extender like a regular tube to swap for another tube.