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Little Dot Tube Amps: Vacuum Tube Rolling Guide - Page 437

post #6541 of 10502

Thought I was taking a holiday from the thread, but I just can't seem to stay away...will be in trouble 'indoors' if I'm not careful (live dangerously, I say!).

 

However, there's a couple of points I feel I need to make :

 

Firstly, after looking back over some of our (myriad) posts, I realised that you - MORDY - were way ahead of your time when you tentatively proposed using 6SN7s as power tubes...and which you - GIBOSI  - then made possible with your experimentation with external heater power supplies.

 

This thread and all LD I to IV owners interested in taking their amps to new heights do indeed owe you both a great debt of gratitude...and is certainly 'one in the eye' for the experienced guy who wondered why we were bothering to do what we have been doing without checking out all the pure 'technicalities' involved...had we done so, we probably would never have dared to carry on, lol!

 

Secondly, I am now fairly sure I don't need to 'move up' to a Bottlehead Crack...milosz, over on the Little Dot MKIII review thread did a very interesting A/B comparison - with the BH (plus speedball upgrade and better caps) only marginally ahead. And this with only stock tubes! Given my IVSE, with C3GSs and Chatham 6AS7Gs (as if you didn't know lol!) is a million miles from stock sound, I doubt VERY MUCH - IMHO -  whether the BH even matches what I am now getting. I really do believe I would need to spend BIG BUCKS to get any noticeable improvement...am I deluding myself? Possibly, but this past year with all you wonderful guys has taught me more about 'sound', its reproduction, and music appreciation than I ever imagined possible. And I can finally appreciate more as a whole the finer points regarding what my ears (and brain!) are hearing - beyond the more 'technical' aspects of sound.

Whatever, I continue to be amazed at what this amp is now doing...and this, long after the initial 'honeymoon' effect that can often happen...

 

Cheers to you all...

 

Edit. Forgot to post milosz's link...silly me...:

 

http://lf.org/abtests/ns/hpamps/10.html


Edited by hypnos1 - 6/13/14 at 11:16am
post #6542 of 10502
Quote:
Originally Posted by hypnos1 View Post
 

 

All I can say is...WELL DONE! You did a fine job with those rings. A good deal of care is obviously needed when sliding back that board, but certainly doable.

Luckily I have the MKIV SE, so I don't have that particular problem - our tube rings and plate come off nice and easily from the top :regular_smile :. But I was hoping you could enlighten your fellow MKIII owners...which of course you have!!

 

Glad you managed to remove the C3Gs from their prison...sure looks much prettier, lol! - even if there isn't much glow :frown:. But if you want gorgeous glow, just take the 6AS7G high road...your mind would be blown in more ways than one - guaranteed! And your C3Gs would say a BIG "thank you"...

 

ps. Sorry if I'm stating the obvious (again), sgb, but please be extremely careful if you remove the tube and it separates from the base...as I mentioned before, the base can appear to fit on the tube in any position... just ensure the 'church windows' line up perfectly, and all is well.

The MKIV certainly is the way to go if adapters are to be used that's for sure, seems far less effort, though now its done I don't have to worry about it again :). The 6AS7G's may be a future project for me but for now I am pleased enough with the 6SN7's sound. I agree that the C3G's are more aesthetically pleasing now that the casings have been removed. Even though there is very little tube glow it is the sound that matters the most and these certainly deliver, now that they are plugged into the adapters I don't think I'll be removing them unless they give out on me so I wont have that problem so there are no worries on that front haha

post #6543 of 10502
Quote:
Originally Posted by sgbwill2 View Post
 

The MKIV certainly is the way to go if adapters are to be used that's for sure, seems far less effort, though now its done I don't have to worry about it again :). The 6AS7G's may be a future project for me but for now I am pleased enough with the 6SN7's sound. I agree that the C3G's are more aesthetically pleasing now that the casings have been removed. Even though there is very little tube glow it is the sound that matters the most and these certainly deliver, now that they are plugged into the adapters I don't think I'll be removing them unless they give out on me so I wont have that problem so there are no worries on that front haha

 

Jolly good...now you have an LD that LOOKS better, as well as SOUNDING better...what more can you ask?...(There is always more!..:evil:). But all in good time, mon ami...

 

ps. As those C3Gs were built to do a really tough job, hopefully we should NEVER have to remove them, lol!!

post #6544 of 10502

What inspired me getting the CRACK is this.

I would like to build my own amp IMO the CRACK will allow me to do that,I can say i build that.THANK YOU Artsi!:beerchug:

post #6545 of 10502
Quote:
Originally Posted by i luvmusic 2 View Post

I would like to build my own amp IMO the CRACK will allow me to do that,I can say i build that.THANK YOU Artsi!beerchug.gif
If you reall want to build your "Own" there are a ton of designs on the net that you can use. You'll have to source all the parts and learn to basically follow a schematic, you don't have to fully understand the workings of the circuit just to build the design.

IMHO It would be much more rewarding than a put part A in place A, put part B in place B type of build. It is more expensive than the Crack would be but you get to design the case and layout to your liking, within reason of course, the smaller the case the more critical the parts placement to avoid hum and noise etc...
beerchug.gif
post #6546 of 10502
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post


If you reall want to build your "Own" there are a ton of designs on the net that you can use. You'll have to source all the parts and learn to basically follow a schematic, you don't have to fully understand the workings of the circuit just to build the design.

IMHO It would be much more rewarding than a put part A in place A, put part B in place B type of build. It is more expensive than the Crack would be but you get to design the case and layout to your liking, within reason of course, the smaller the case the more critical the parts placement to avoid hum and noise etc...
beerchug.gif

  I will start with the CRACK for now and believe me once i build the crack it's not gonna look like a stock CRACK,I looked around for a TRANSFORMER that i can used for a tube amp build and some of them are twice the price of CRACK that just the trans. and some RESISTORS and CAPACITORS are not cheap either IMO the crack will get me started to be more comfortable working with P2P wiring i've never done this before so hopefully i can learn some skills from the CRACK and don't closed your account here i will be sending you a lot of PM once i start this thing.LOL:biggrin: 

post #6547 of 10502

I just don't like the idea of putting all the plugs and switches on top of the AMP.

post #6548 of 10502
Quote:
Originally Posted by i luvmusic 2 View Post

  I will start with the CRACK for now and believe me once i build the crack it's not gonna look like a stock CRACK,I looked around for a TRANSFORMER that i can used for a tube amp build and some of them are twice the price of CRACK that just the trans. and some RESISTORS and CAPACITORS are not cheap either IMO the crack will get me started to be more comfortable working with P2P wiring i've never done this before so hopefully i can learn some skills from the CRACK and don't closed your account here i will be sending you a lot of PM once i start this thing.LOL:D  

Quote:
Originally Posted by i luvmusic 2 View Post

I just don't like the idea of putting all the plugs and switches on top of the AMP.
Well then the Crack is the place to start, P2P wiring is really easy, you should have no trouble at all!

Feel free to ask away, I'll assist with whatever I can answer. There is a ton of help on the Crack forums as well and Doc B is there to answer anything technical in regards to circuit operation so you should really set up an account there as well.

No, I don't care much for connectors and knobs on the top deck either, but if I had a Decware CSP I could probably get used to the top mounted connectors and controls very easily... biggrin.gif
post #6549 of 10502

A Sylvania 6832, manufactured in 1960 and sporting a D-getter, arrived yesterday. However, in comparing my Sylvania 6832 to pictures of the Raytheons on eBay, I am quite sure that mine was also manufactured by Raytheon and simply rebranded. Like my 7963, I mounted the 6832 into an octal base, but this time, I thought I should try to improve my technique. Inspired by Mordy, I used heat shrink tubing. I think it looks a little better. lol :)

 

Sylvania 7963                                                                       Sylvania (Ratheon) 6832

 

 

I listened to it for about an hour last night and even right out of the box, it sounds very good. As usual, I will wait until it has considerably more hours on it before I do any critical listening, but my first impression is the 6832 is a bit brighter and more forward than the 7963.  

post #6550 of 10502

Still at the back of the bus here, with a pair of 6GU7's as power tubes.

 

 

:beerchug: 

post #6551 of 10502
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post



Well then the Crack is the place to start, P2P wiring is really easy, you should have no trouble at all!

Feel free to ask away, I'll assist with whatever I can answer. There is a ton of help on the Crack forums as well and Doc B is there to answer anything technical in regards to circuit operation so you should really set up an account there as well.

No, I don't care much for connectors and knobs on the top deck either, but if I had a Decware CSP I could probably get used to the top mounted connectors and controls very easily... biggrin.gif

Good to know and THANK YOU SIR!

post #6552 of 10502
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post
 

Still at the back of the bus here, with a pair of 6GU7's as power tubes.

 

 

:beerchug: 

You should really try the Raytheon 6832 they are cheap and sound really nice.PM  me i have one extra.

post #6553 of 10502

Hi,

 

Finally received the second 5A voltage regulator and rigged up two Stromberg-Carlson 6080 (nee RCA) tubes from May, 1960 as power tubes. The trusty Raytheon JAN 6832 from September 1957 serves as the driver.

 

 

 The voltage regulators, although looking alike, display different numbers even though the readout at the tube pins is 6.29-6.31V (hard to set exactly).                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               

 

Here is a night view of 5.4A of fire power:

 

 

And a closeup of the orange lightning rods:

 

 

First impression: With an amplification factor of 2 I am running the LD at full tilt at 5:45 on the volume control. With the A/C on and an ambient room temperature of 73F with the external fan drawing away air from the amp, the amp after one hour  is barely warm to the touch. The tubes need perhaps 30 min to come into their own. (Don't know if these are used or new. Just like TD I am enjoying them right away, but IMHO tubes improve after burn-in, and they may sound better later.

 

The sound is open and sweet with a wide luscious sound stage. I can "see" into the recording and hear things I did not hear before. It is as if there are layers of music added. The highs are gorgeous, and the bass is very detailed and tuneful and really strong and powerful.

 

There is not more hum than before; only when I turn it up very loud without music playing. Can somebody advise me if I need to ground the second voltage regulator to the chassis the same as the first one?

 

End game?

post #6554 of 10502
Quote:
Originally Posted by mordy View Post
 

Hi,

 

Finally received the second 5A voltage regulator and rigged up two Stromberg-Carlson 6080 (nee RCA) tubes from May, 1960 as power tubes. The trusty Raytheon JAN 6832 from September 1957 serves as the driver.

 

 

 The voltage regulators, although looking alike, display different numbers even though the readout at the tube pins is 6.29-6.31V (hard to set exactly).                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               

 

Here is a night view of 5.4A of fire power:

 

 

And a closeup of the orange lightning rods:

 

 

First impression: With an amplification factor of 2 I am running the LD at full tilt at 5:45 on the volume control. With the A/C on and an ambient room temperature of 73F with the external fan drawing away air from the amp, the amp after one hour  is barely warm to the touch. The tubes need perhaps 30 min to come into their own. (Don't know if these are used or new. Just like TD I am enjoying them right away, but IMHO tubes improve after burn-in, and they may sound better later.

 

The sound is open and sweet with a wide luscious sound stage. I can "see" into the recording and hear things I did not hear before. It is as if there are layers of music added. The highs are gorgeous, and the bass is very detailed and tuneful and really strong and powerful.

 

There is not more hum than before; only when I turn it up very loud without music playing. Can somebody advise me if I need to ground the second voltage regulator to the chassis the same as the first one?

 

End game?

 

Hi mordy.

 

Thought you would be bowled over with your second 6080 in place...who would have believed we could squeeze such a sound out of our LDs?...I really cannot see how we could push things any further...some WE 421As perhaps?...at their prices, you're on your own I'm afraid!!

 

The journey has indeed borne fruit aplenty, and has been a very enjoyable one in addition...I wish you continued  HAPPY LISTENING...methinks 'ROLLING' is now less appropriate - more's the pity, lol!

 

Cheers.

 

C.J.

post #6555 of 10502
Quote:
Originally Posted by mordy View Post
 

Hi,

 

Finally received the second 5A voltage regulator and rigged up two Stromberg-Carlson 6080 (nee RCA) tubes from May, 1960 as power tubes. The trusty Raytheon JAN 6832 from September 1957 serves as the driver.

 

The sound is open and sweet with a wide luscious sound stage. I can "see" into the recording and hear things I did not hear before. It is as if there are layers of music added. The highs are gorgeous, and the bass is very detailed and tuneful and really strong and powerful.

 

There is not more hum than before; only when I turn it up very loud without music playing. Can somebody advise me if I need to ground the second voltage regulator to the chassis the same as the first one?

 

End game?

 

Perhaps TD will weigh in here, but I believe tying all external PS's and the amp to a common ground is best practice.

 

End game? In the 6AS7 forum, there is considerable consensus that an RCA 6AS7 is superior to all but very few (and expensive) 6080. Given your self-imposed limit of $8 per tube, I would guess that the RCA 6AS7 may well be your end game. But who knows? Sometimes eBay "sleeps", and you may be able to snag a pair of Tung-Sol/Chatham 6AS7's for cheap....

 

Cheers

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