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Little Dot Tube Amps: Vacuum Tube Rolling Guide - Page 411

post #6151 of 10503
Quote:
Originally Posted by gibosi View Post
 

 

The Ken-Rad's are one of the very best 6SN7's for bass, no doubt about it. But how are you liking the mids and the highs?

Hmm...I didn't pay too much attention to the mids and highs but unless it is very noticeable, i don't recall hearing any roll offs in the highs nor smearing/recessed mids. With the HD800 in tow, it sounded like how the recording was supposed to sound, just with thumpier bass : ) So far, am liking what I hear.

post #6152 of 10503

The E182CC  (and 5687) are excellent driver tubes. They can even drive 300Bs well, something the 6SN7GT can't do well. Great to see the use of C3gs and ECC40s also, FINE TUBES. Has anyone tried to use a WE 437A / STC 3A/167M yet?

post #6153 of 10503
This pair of WE437A's would be fine!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Western-Electric-WE437A-Tubes-Matched-Pair-437A-437-Gold-standard-with-Curves-/181391104557

Then all you would need is a pair of WE421A's as power tubes. biggrin.gif
post #6154 of 10503
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nic Rhodes View Post
 

The E182CC  (and 5687) are excellent driver tubes. They can even drive 300Bs well, something the 6SN7GT can't do well. Great to see the use of C3gs and ECC40s also, FINE TUBES. Has anyone tried to use a WE 437A / STC 3A/167M yet?

 

Well no, I haven't tried these tubes. And given the prices I am seeing on eBay, I don't expect to be trying them anytime soon, especially since we need two of them! lol

 

But sure, if I could get a pair for less than $100, I would be happy to give them a try. :)

post #6155 of 10503
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rossliew View Post
 

Hmm...I didn't pay too much attention to the mids and highs but unless it is very noticeable, i don't recall hearing any roll offs in the highs nor smearing/recessed mids. With the HD800 in tow, it sounded like how the recording was supposed to sound, just with thumpier bass : ) So far, am liking what I hear.

 

I can easily believe that the Ken-Rad, with it's huge bass and slightly dark sound signature, is a great match with the HD800. Others with the HD800 should try one. :)

post #6156 of 10503
Quote:
Originally Posted by gibosi View Post
 

 

Well no, I haven't tried these tubes. And given the prices I am seeing on eBay, I don't expect to be trying them anytime soon, especially since we need two of them! lol

 

But sure, if I could get a pair for less than $100, I would be happy to give them a try. :)

 

very possible with the STCs, certainly the right ball park but not everyone need to go out to buy new tubes in to try these :) If people are happy changing bases, adding power supplies etc then these are the natural extension in triodes. The thread has moved a long way from the $5 strapped pentode with some expensive 'ECC88 family'  and unusual based now being tried.

post #6157 of 10503
Quote:
Originally Posted by gibosi View Post
 

 

I can easily believe that the Ken-Rad, with it's huge bass and slightly dark sound signature, is a great match with the HD800. Others with the HD800 should try one. :)

Yes, they do! But i have to also add, the extra bass does not sacrifice the inherent sound sig of the HD800 i.e. its high frequency goodness! I admit the HD800 got me into treble when I was quite a bass head back in the day with no care in the world for mids or highs..

post #6158 of 10503
Quote:
Originally Posted by hypnos1 View Post
 

Hey guys...a word of WARNING, if anyone is thinking of buying the 8A voltage regulator/converter I posted a while ago.

 

After a near heart attack when the gorgeous glow from my 6AS7Gs disappeared - I always assume the worst! - it turned out to be said cheapo chinese converter. At £4.99, incl shipping, I should have known better. Mind you, with the possible high initial surges from the 6AS7Gs I suppose it isn't really fair on the poor thing! Probably, all would be well using 2 of same :rolleyes:...

 

Might just bite the  bullet and get a proper unit, now I know it would be well worth the investment, lol.

 

Cheers

 

Update on above warning...

 

Turns out it wasn't anything really nasty - the output connector block came loose from it's solder points, caused by my overenthusiasm in tightening the screws (mind you, I wasn't that brutal!). A quick re-solder and all is well. So now I can get back to my Ferraried LD - oh joy!!

post #6159 of 10503

Hi,

 

After having listened extensively to the dual triode Raytheon 6832 sub miniature tubes in combination as both power and driver tubes I have come to the conclusion that they they sound very good. The presentation is lively, quick and balanced with a wide sound stage. The only drawback is a lack of real heft and slam in the bass, although it goes quite low and the midbass is very good. The bass does not break up, but doesn't have the full impact on bass heavy recordings.

 

This tube is very neutral and because of this it perhaps lacks in charisma but nevertheless it is very pleasant to listen to. These tubes deliver a bigger bang for the buck than most. They are still available on Ebay for $6.95/pair incl shipping (although I received three tubes for this price). Search Ebay for this:

 

Raytheon Jan 6832 Submini dual Triode. Matched Pair, Excellent NOS tubes!

 

I am afraid to ask TD if a voltage regulator rated max 3A will work for a 6080 tube that draws 2.5A. Make that a Chinese voltage regulator. What do you think?

post #6160 of 10503
Hey mordy

Feel free to ask anything, anytime... I'll do my best to give you an answer that falls on the side of caution all the time. smily_headphones1.gif

Your Chi-nee 3A'er will most likely power the 2.5 perfectly fine, just remember that tubes can possibly draw up to 3x the rated current at startup. I believe those regulators have an over current protection built in so at the worst, it would just shut down.

I always find that running things close to maximum is never any good, heat is the major killer of electronics, so you might have to put a heatsink on the regulator if it gets too hot.

Just like the a 4 cylinder engine, it will last a lot longer running it at 3000 RPM than at 6500...

I would order an 8A or higher off of eBay and never worry about the current draw.

Unless you break the solder on the terminals with over enthusiasm. biggrin.gif

Try the 3A first and see how it fares.
beerchug.gif
post #6161 of 10503

Hi TD,

 Since we are on a regulator topic i replaced the trim pot(10K) on one of my regulator with a 10K pot so i can install a knob on it the problem i have is when i turn the POT i can only turn(7 to 9 o'clok) a little and the voltage reading on the regulator is already max out.What could be the problem?Thanks!

post #6162 of 10503

Here is the picture of the regulator. 

post #6163 of 10503
Hey ILM2,

Providing you have connected the big pot the same way as the little pot was.

Is the markings on this pot 10K A or 10K B?

A is an logarithmic pot which goes full very quickly. If there was a dial on the pot with numbers 1 to 10, anything after 3 would be like 10.

B is a linear pot which is what you need, it works basically where each number like above would be a percentage of total resistance. 3=30%, 5=50%, 7=70% and so on.
post #6164 of 10503
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post

Hey ILM2,

Providing you have connected the big pot the same way as the little pot was.

Is the markings on this pot 10K A or 10K B?

A is an logarithmic pot which goes full very quickly. If there was a dial on the pot with numbers 1 to 10, anything after 3 would be like 10.

B is a linear pot which is what you need, it works basically where each number like above would be a percentage of total resistance. 3=30%, 5=50%, 7=70% and so on.

Hi TD,

   The Pot is mark B10K and i connected it like the old one was.THANK YOU!

post #6165 of 10503
Quote:
Originally Posted by i luvmusic 2 View Post

Hi TD,
   The Pot is mark B10K and i connected it like the old one was.THANK YOU!
Then there is something not quite correct in either how you wired it or if it is an old pot salvaged from an old radio they had changed the A / B designation quite a few years ago.

The best way to tell if it is a linear pot is to unsolder it completely. Measure both outside lugs, this should give you roughly 10K ohms. Then turn the shaft approximately half way and you should measure 5K ohms between the center and each of the outside lugs. If the measurement is drastically different between the center and each outside lug, you have a logarithmic pot that will not work.

Also check the pinout of the trimpot you removed by looking it up on the net and make sure you have the wires to the big pot in the same configuration. Only if the big pot is confirmed to be linear from the first test.
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