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Little Dot Tube Amps: Vacuum Tube Rolling Guide - Page 347

post #5191 of 7513
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post


You are most welcome.

I couldn't tell by your post if it was connected or not, since it is under load that you get 6.3V on the 5V setting then that is good and will work great until your reglulator arrives on the slow boat from China. smily_headphones1.gif


Yes - that boat from China is certainly a slow one :)

 

By the way - would you recommend using the regulator when it arrives instead of the power supply I have now? I'm just wondering if the regulator is better? The power supply I'm using now is a switching power supply - if that makes a difference.

 

Thanks again.

post #5192 of 7513

Hi TD,is it possible to run 2 regulator from one Power Supply(24V-5A PS)?I will be using one regulator for 6.3V and one regulator for 12V from one PS and i will put a ON(6.3V) OFF ON(12)switch i think these way i don't need to dial in the voltage regulator all the time.And can i run both regulator at the sametime if i need to.

post #5193 of 7513
Quote:
Originally Posted by samtheman View Post
 


Yes - that boat from China is certainly a slow one :)

 

By the way - would you recommend using the regulator when it arrives instead of the power supply I have now? I'm just wondering if the regulator is better? The power supply I'm using now is a switching power supply - if that makes a difference.

 

Thanks again.


Since the power supply you have now is a switching variety and is providing adequate voltage and current to run the 6V tubes, then I see no reason to change it out for the regulator. If you are looking to run 12V tubes the regulator would come in handy with at least a 15V source supply.

 

Whatever works and is the easiest to use is what I like. ;)

post #5194 of 7513
Quote:
Originally Posted by i luvmusic 2 View Post
 

Hi TD,is it possible to run 2 regulator from one Power Supply(24V-5A PS)?I will be using one regulator for 6.3V and one regulator for 12V from one PS and i will put a ON(6.3V) OFF ON(12)switch i think these way i don't need to dial in the voltage regulator all the time.And can i run both regulator at the sametime if i need to.


I don't see any problem in running both regulators from the power supply and the switch is a handy feature to flip between them. I'd just use two SPST switches, one for 6V and the other for 12V instead of the Center Off switch, it would be easier to use both at the same time that way.   

post #5195 of 7513
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post
 


I don't see any problem in running both regulators from the power supply and the switch is a handy feature to flip between them. I'd just use two SPST switches, one for 6V and the other for 12V instead of the Center Off switch, it would be easier to use both at the same time that way. 

THANK YOU!

post #5196 of 7513
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post
 


Since the power supply you have now is a switching variety and is providing adequate voltage and current to run the 6V tubes, then I see no reason to change it out for the regulator. If you are looking to run 12V tubes the regulator would come in handy with at least a 15V source supply.

 

Whatever works and is the easiest to use is what I like. ;)


Gracias Senor! Simple is best.

post #5197 of 7513

I don't know why i'am reading these thread backwards...:L3000:

post #5198 of 7513

Page 300 that's where my 6SL7/6SN7 journey began did not look back ever since.THANKS GUYS!

post #5199 of 7513

Received some nice tubes here recently....

 

A pair of FIVRE 6SN7GT. I got these for a pretty good price as they are not quite a "matched" pair. Notice that the tube on the right has a side getter and the tube on the left, a bottom getter, but otherwise, they appear identical. In a quick search on Google, I wasn't able to find anything to help me date these tubes. An obvious guess is that the "7" and "6" might represent the last digit of the year, so perhaps, the 1940's or 1950's, or even 1960's?

 

Spent an hour or so last night with the left tube and it sounded very good to me. Borrowing from Mordy, this is very musical and toe-tapping tube and there was nothing in the sound to distract me. That is, I found myself listening to the music, and not the tube. One album in particular, Don't Explain (Beth Hart and Joe Bonamassa), stood out. Hart's vocals are very raw and powerful on this album, and with some tubes, her voice can be a bit shrill and harsh, but with the FIVRE, everything was good.

 

.

And a Dario branded ECC40, manufactured in Philips' Sittard, Holland. factory in January, 1953 (LCC +t). Note that as Dario is a French brand, a Holland-made tube is labeIed "FOREIGN". Haven't had a chance to listen to this tube, but am very relieved to be able say that it lights up and plays. One thing that is immediately noticeable when powering up these Philips ECC40s is they exhibit a bright flash of light similar to the 6HM5.

 

 

post #5200 of 7513
Quote:
Originally Posted by gibosi View Post

.

And a Dario branded ECC40, manufactured in Philips' Sittard, Holland. factory in January, 1953 (LCC +t). Note that as Dario is a French brand, a Holland-made tube is labeIed "FOREIGN".

 

This is quite interesting. It seems to me that the tube was packaged for the UK market. Sure enough, radiomuseum.org has a (very short) listing for Dario-Impex, GB:

 

 

If you can manage the German, the last message here by Jacob Roschy is especially enlightening:

 

 

Google translation:

In the book "History of the British Radio Valve to 1940," writes KR Thrower on Dario-Impex (UK): "Selling Philips tubes French production"; Address: Impex Electrical Ltd, 538 High St., London, E11 and 47 Victoria Street, London, SW1.. 

The name Impex deuted already on imports and exports. Again, this is another example of how Philips disguised its huge market share and the buyers pretending alternatives. Philips was strongly represented in the UK already under his own name and with Mullard.

 

Perhaps Stavros might be able to tell you something about the FIVREs.

post #5201 of 7513

Coincidentally, I purchased this Dario from a UK-based vendor. :)

post #5202 of 7513

Keith's books are excellent :)

post #5203 of 7513

Hi i luvemusic 2,

 

After you set up both power supplies I would just re-measure the voltage at the tube socket pins to make sure that nothing changes.

 

Personally, I have a different type of setup with two differently wired breadboards attached to one voltage regulator. I just have to make sure that only one tube is plugged in at any one time. To switch from 6DJ8 to octal tubes I just unplug the Vector adapters and switch to a second set of Vectors, making sure that the voltage is set correctly.

 

(I tried having one Vector plugged into the other, i.e one on top the other, hoping that I would only need to switch the tube and the voltage, but that did not work at all. In retrospect, I should have figured out that that it is a dumb idea to mix two different wiring schemes.)

 

Anyhow, waiting for an upgraded 5A voltage regulator for them power hungry 6SN7 variants...

 

There are custom made Bugatti Weyron level systems out there costing mega bucks:

 

  • VPI Scout turntable + Shelter 501 MkII cartridge
  • Krell KPS 20i/L cd player
  • Gryphon XT MC preamplifier
  • Mandozzi DART harddiskrecorder
  • Nagra ARES harddiskrecorder
  • Self build power amplifiers using 6SN7 - 300B - TB3/1000. These are on the outside of the audio rack. The dedicated power supplies are below; the amplifiers themselves are above
  • Self build tube headphone amplifier using 6SN7's. It is in the middle lower shelf. The dedicated power supply is next to it. It drives a Grado RS1.
  • Self build Avalon Opus Ceramic loudspeakers with external crossovers.

The power amplifiers deliver 70 Watt single ended Class A. The output triodes are pre-WWII transmitting triodes from Philips. The American equivalent is the well known 833A. These triodes are fired through a step down interstage using EML 300B's. I have the 300B-XLS and the 300B-Mesh. And it is a matter of taste what to choose; both perform excellent !. The 300B-driver is essential in these amplifiers for the output triodes want to see a very stable driver.

The amplifiers are fully hard-wired. All needed voltages do have there own power line consisting of power transformer - rectifier - snubber - coil - capacitor - coil - capacitor. This adds up to a total of 32 coils and transformers. And as these amplifiers run on 1200 Volt everything is quite large. The complete amplifier weighs more than 300 kgs.

 

Reinout-de-vries-1.jpg

 

This guy claims that the listening experience is better than listening live in a concert hall.

 

Why I am showing this? Because we have something in common - he is using 6SN7 tubes as drivers. I think we are on to something...

post #5204 of 7513
post #5205 of 7513
Quote:

 

The 5961 is a premium, long-life, high-reliability, industrial version of the 6SL7, and while a little different, they are plug-compatible in our LDs, providing you have an external heater PS, as they require 600ma as opposed to 300ma for the standard 6SL7.

 

http://www.r-type.org/pdfs/5691.pdf

 

However, I have never tried one....

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