Originally Posted by gibosi
If... I get a pair of these, I would like to remove the top metal cap, but is it possible to easily do so without disturbing the metal base?
The adapters for the C3gSs are done (phew), so here are some photos & tips for anyone interested...
gibosi - hope this shows how easy it is in fact to release tube from ugly canister...
If you (or anyone) wish to re-attach the metal base, note the position of the 3 gaskets (pins 2, 5, and7), which may well fall out on extraction! (Second photo).
Originally Posted by Oskari
It's quite a brilliant design that 'marker' being a spigot in itself for the socket that is the bottom metal part of the tube.
The raised marker on the glass underside is not very clear, but is visible enough to show the 1-8 position - 1, of course, (sorry to those much more experienced than I) being to the left and running clockwise to 8. The metal base also has one slot (pin 6) of a different shape to fit the tube base raised seats.
You might just be able to see the tiny pieces of Teflon tube (leftover from speaker cable construction) I used to hold the silver wire to the tube pins for soldering, plus (hopefully) to give some mechanical connection also. A bit of 'white tack' - like plasticine - over the precarious protrusion - offers some protection but, of course, still needed to be treated warily!
Next, some tape around the pins to contain the first dose of 2-part rapid-setting resin - the joints MUST be well solidly bedded before even thinking of bending those would-be pins!...
Finally, over the wire/cum pins went half a 7-pin ceramic socket then a small, drilled disc of 5mm plastic (from an old chopping board) - 5mm being the socket inset, on the MKIV at least. For the last enclosure I used a piece of 26mm internal diam. aluminium tube (from some old tree loppers - well, necessity is the Mother...etc.etc.), suitably mauled at the rear to provide a gap (so who's gonna see it?!) for pouring in the final resin sealant. A snip of the wire pins to 7mm and a smoothing of any burrs...
(Edit...internal diam. changed to 26mm)
(The tube is sitting in a glass egg-cup, in case you were wondering!).
The finished article doesn't look too out-of-place on the LD?...But some lovely, large, curvy rectifier-type tubes behind would certainly look much better - but after what I paid for those 6N30P-DRs, the look will have to stay!!
I must admit this job is a bit tricky, but I myself am quite a novice to this sort of thing (especially soldering). But with due care and diligence; careful planning; more care and diligence; patience and soldering practice, if necessary, this is not TOO difficult a task for most people. Using a loctal socket would be safer than attaching direct to the tube pins, that's for sure, but would make for a somewhat bulkier adapter... Otherwise, gibosi's 'breadboard' method , to a pair of Vector sockets, may suit those who do not feel confident in such construction. But I am sure this route must degrade the end result somewhat...especially if TOP grade wire isn't used. I firmly believe the 1.2mm silver wire I had doubling up as the pins has contributed to the magical sound I am now getting (or perhaps I'm deluding myself!...).
Whatever, I really do hope someone else gives these amazing tubes a try...
Originally Posted by mab1376
Did you test the cg3 vs the cg3s?
also what is the price you paid if you don't mind me asking, they don't seem to have a price posted anywhere.
i found the price list, looks like $40.86 each form JAC music or $66.01 each for the c3gs for the Siemens, Telefunken are absolutely ridiculous pricing!
(That's after a quick currency conversion from the euro using google, based on their "Export" price)
With just 15hrs on the C3gSs, I must admit (and I just can't believe it possible) they are sounding even better than the 'ordinary' ones. I suppose the only way I can describe the difference is there seems to be more weight to the overall sound - especially in the bass (plus a bit more detail) and mids. But with no adverse effect on the high end either, nor the wonderful spacious airiness and pin-point imaging...how do they do it? There is also even more detail - the already amazing handling of transients and micro-detail goes to another level.
In other words, if you do go for C3gs, the 'S's are the ones to possibly keep looking for - if they do surface , and the PRICE IS RIGHT! But even if not, the 'plain' ones are still utterly wonderful and would not disappoint, I am sure.
ps. The S's tops are slightly flatter than the plains - otherwise they look totally identical.
Edited by hypnos1 - 2/19/14 at 12:12am