or Connect
Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Headphone Amps (full-size) › Little Dot Tube Amps: Vacuum Tube Rolling Guide
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Little Dot Tube Amps: Vacuum Tube Rolling Guide - Page 337

post #5041 of 10504
Quote:
Originally Posted by Royan View Post
 

Guys, do you know if Voshkod 6ZH1P-EV = 6J1P-EV? I'm looking for the real 6ZH1P-EV for a Little Dot MkIII.

 

post #5042 of 10504

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Russian_tube_designations

post #5043 of 10504
Many thanks!!
post #5044 of 10504
Quote:
Originally Posted by Royan View Post
 

Guys, do you know if Voshkod 6ZH1P-EV = 6J1P-EV? I'm looking for the real 6ZH1P-EV for a Little Dot MkIII.

 

I found this matched pair on ebay at a very good price:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6ZH1P-EV-6J1P-EV-EF95-5AK5-Matched-pair-Mil-Tubes-TOP-/141184491953?pt=DE_TV_Video_Audio_Elektronenr%C3%B6hren_Valves&hash=item20df4061b1

 

But the seller says "6ZH1P-EV / 6J1P-EV" and I read several post in these forums where people doubt if 6ZH1P-EV = 6J1P-EV, so I'm confused.

 

There is another, pricier auction wich says 6ZH1P-EV only:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/301050973465?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

 

Yes, they are the same. It just comes down to how the Russian cyrillic alphabet is translated into English. And to give you one more choice, I bought mine from this vendor:

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130436695928&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160

post #5045 of 10504
Hello guys!

Just wanted to say that I ordered 2 octal and 2 loctal sockets, a black case, silver plated copper wire and 2 sylvania 6sn7gt black plate, bottom d getter and also 2 siemens c3g-s, so I am ready to build my adpater in a couple weeks!

What I need is some table or something showing me how to rewire the pins from 6n6p to 6sn7, do you have any clue where I could find this?

Thanks in advance, looking forward for some tube adapter magic :-)

Edit:
Artsi, maybe you could help me, as you already built an adapter to use 6sn7 as power tube?
Edited by CollectoR13 - 2/15/14 at 10:26am
post #5046 of 10504
Quote:
Originally Posted by CollectoR13 View Post

What I need is some table or something showing me how to rewire the pins from 6n6p to 6sn7, do you have any clue where I could find this?

 

This would be a good time for you to learn how to read data sheets:

 

6N6P

 

http://tubes.ru/techinfo/HiFiAudio/6n6poc.html

 
6SN7
 
 
The key is that the "basing diagram" or "lead diagram" is analogous to holding the tube upside down. That is, hold the tube in your hand, upside down and translate the pins from one tube to the other. However, you have to remember that you will insert the tube right side up. So when you diagram from one socket to the other, you will use the mirror image.
 
Have fun. :)
post #5047 of 10504
Quote:
Originally Posted by gibosi View Post
 

 

This would be a good time for you to learn how to read data sheets:

 

6N6P

 

http://tubes.ru/techinfo/HiFiAudio/6n6poc.html

 
6SN7
 
 
The key is that the "basing diagram" or "lead diagram" is analogous to holding the tube upside down. That is, hold the tube in your hand, upside down and translate the pins from one tube to the other. However, you have to remember that you will insert the tube right side up. So when you diagram from one socket to the other, you will use the mirror image.
 
Have fun. :)

Can 6SN7 be used as power tube without any power supplies?

post #5048 of 10504
Quote:
Originally Posted by mab1376 View Post
 

Can 6SN7 be used as power tube without any power supplies?

 

Yes. 6SN7s draw a little less heater current than the standard LD power tubes, so absolutely no problem.

post #5049 of 10504
Sorry for the stupid question, but is there any site explaining the letter abbreviations of tube diagrams?
Did not find any...
Or I am just not searching right...
post #5050 of 10504
Quote:
Originally Posted by CollectoR13 View Post

Sorry for the stupid question, but is there any site explaining the letter abbreviations of tube diagrams?
Did not find any...
Or I am just not searching right...

 

I suspect you are stymied by the 6N6P basing diagram. Yes, the Russian abbreviations appear to be a bit different. Typically, a = plate, g = grid, k = cathode, s = shield and f = heater. Here are two 6CG7 datasheets, which has the same pin-out as the 6N6P, to help you figure it out:

 

http://www.radiomuseum.org/tubes/tube_6cg7.html

 

http://www.drtube.com/datasheets/6cg7-ge1956.pdf


Edited by gibosi - 2/15/14 at 5:20pm
post #5051 of 10504

Hi,

 

Can somebody clarify to me if I could used an external power supply rated 2A (3A peak) to supply two separate tubes at the same time. The combined heater draw would be less than 2A for the two tubes.

 

Next question: I have two bread boards, one set up for 6DJ8 tubes and the other for 12AX7/octal tubes w adapter. The heater connections are different for these two boards. Would there be any problem if I would connect my external PS to both boards with separate wires, but only use one board at a time? In other words, both boards would be connected to the PS, but only one tube would be plugged in at any given time. This way I would not have to switch wires when I change from one tube family to another.

post #5052 of 10504
Quote:
Originally Posted by mordy View Post

 

Can somebody clarify to me if I could used an external power supply rated 2A (3A peak) to supply two separate tubes at the same time. The combined heater draw would be less than 2A for the two tubes.

 

Next question: I have two bread boards, one set up for 6DJ8 tubes and the other for 12AX7/octal tubes w adapter. The heater connections are different for these two boards. Would there be any problem if I would connect my external PS to both boards with separate wires, but only use one board at a time? In other words, both boards would be connected to the PS, but only one tube would be plugged in at any given time. This way I would not have to switch wires when I change from one tube family to another.

 

Someone other than myself will have to weigh in on the first question. But my thinking is that this would be a parallel connection, and so if the output from the regulator is set to 12.6V, then I think you could supply two 6.3V tubes. But again, my working knowledge is insufficient to say for sure....

 

And as long as you are using only one socket at a time, I can see no reason why you couldn't connect both sockets as you propose...  But here too, I hope someone else will weigh in.... :)

post #5053 of 10504
Quote:
Originally Posted by mordy View Post
 

Hi,

 

Can somebody clarify to me if I could used an external power supply rated 2A (3A peak) to supply two separate tubes at the same time. The combined heater draw would be less than 2A for the two tubes.

 

Next question: I have two bread boards, one set up for 6DJ8 tubes and the other for 12AX7/octal tubes w adapter. The heater connections are different for these two boards. Would there be any problem if I would connect my external PS to both boards with separate wires, but only use one board at a time? In other words, both boards would be connected to the PS, but only one tube would be plugged in at any given time. This way I would not have to switch wires when I change from one tube family to another.


Hey mordy

 

Here is a schematic of a tube amp that provides filament power to 5 tubes from the one 6.3V 3A transformer.

 

The transformer T3 provides High Voltage and Heater power.

They have on the 6.3V winding a Pilot Lamp PL1

Filament power to the 6X4 Rectifier Tube

Tube Filament V1 & V4 are 12AX7's in 6.3V mode using 4/5 & 9 as heater wires just like our adapters.

Tube Filament V2 is a 12AT7 in 6.3V mode

Tube Filament V3 is a 6AK5 native 6.3V filament.

 

So with a 3A supply they are powering all these filaments in parallel...

 

With your 2A supply you could power as many tubes as you want adding up the current draw of each tube. Don't forget that from cold, tubes will draw quite a bit more current than they rated at for a split second. If you are going to be powering 2 tubes that draw close to 2A, I would use at least a 3A supply to drive them. As they could draw close to 3 or 4 amps for a split second before warming up.

 

Running a 2A rated supply at it's max output is usually not a good thing, the regulator that provides your 2A will wear out quite a bit sooner than if it was a 3A version. A 5A supply would be ideal with lots of headroom for whatever you wanted to try.

:beerchug:

post #5054 of 10504
Quote:
Originally Posted by gibosi View Post
 

 

And as long as you are using only one socket at a time, I can see no reason why you couldn't connect both sockets as you propose...  But here too, I hope someone else will weigh in.... :)

Running the wires in parallel will cause no problem as long as you stay under the rated max output of your regulator or like gibosi says only use one socket at a time.

post #5055 of 10504

Thanks for the answers to my questions - I'll play it safe and just use one tube at a time.

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Headphone Amps (full-size)
Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Headphone Amps (full-size) › Little Dot Tube Amps: Vacuum Tube Rolling Guide