or Connect
Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Headphone Amps (full-size) › Little Dot Tube Amps: Vacuum Tube Rolling Guide
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Little Dot Tube Amps: Vacuum Tube Rolling Guide - Page 294

post #4396 of 10497
Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiofanboy View Post
 

Gibosi, did you ever reach a conclusion on the French Suresnes (10 miles away from my house) made E188CC? I keep reading that that tube is like the alternative, not the best of the best, but an excellent take on the E188CC type that many prefer to the Heerlen ones. Is that so? Or should people just focus on getting that Groupon order of cheap Heerlen E188CC going instead lol?

 

I have a Suresnes E88CC VL8 1967. It has a sweet lush mid range similar to the Heerlen tubes, with great detail and a bit more treble presence. As one might surmise, that extra treble presence makes a rather bright tube even brighter. With some recordings, I quite liked it. But with other recordings, it was just a bit too bright for me. However, I think I would agree that it is an excellent take on the Heerlen sound. And it may well be an end-game tube for those who prefer a bit more treble punch.

post #4397 of 10497
Quote:
Originally Posted by gibosi View Post
 

 

I have a Suresnes E88CC VL8 1967. It has a sweet lush mid range similar to the Heerlen tubes, with great detail and a bit more treble presence. As one might surmise, that extra treble presence makes a rather bright tube even brighter. With some recordings, I quite liked it. But with other recordings, it was just a bit too bright for me. However, I think I would agree that it is an excellent take on the Heerlen sound. And it may well be an end-game tube for those who prefer a bit more treble punch.

 

Ok, so it does seem kind of like an alternative in the end. I thought you had an E188CC from Suresnes; actually I'm not even sure whether or not these exist, considering I don't believe I've seen Mullard UK-made E188CC tubes either...

 

So Suresnes for treble punch, Heerlen for midrange glory, and New York for bass punch, I guess...?

 

Edit: Nevermind, I just saw some Mullard-made E188CC on ebay...


Edited by Audiofanboy - 12/17/13 at 8:01am
post #4398 of 10497
Quote:
Originally Posted by mordy View Post
 

Just got in a batch of 6DJ8 derivatives. One is a Tung Sol X155/6BZ8 tube. The silk screen says Tung Sol Made in USA 812-3. However, there is an etched designation LC2F on the tube, which looks like a Philips(?)  designation to me.

 

This tube also has an unusual green insert in the bottom piece of glass.

 

That is unusual!

 

The etched code on my tube is LC2F.  Can anybody decipher it?

 

Semi educated wild guess: In the Philips designation system L stands for Mazda - Belgium. Could this be a Mazda tube made in March 1962?

 

It's not a Philips-style factory + date code. The format is: factory code character, last digit of year, letter for month, optional digit for week of month. Also, there should be a type + change code somewhere close by.

 

322, which you can see in the Tung-Sol photo, is Tung-Sol's EIA manufacturer code (but you can't always trust those).

post #4399 of 10497
Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiofanboy View Post
 

Ok, so it does seem kind of like an alternative in the end. I thought you had an E188CC from Suresnes; actually I'm not even sure whether or not these exist, considering I don't believe I've seen Mullard UK-made E188CC tubes either...

 

Edit: Nevermind, I just saw some Mullard-made E188CC on ebay...

 

I have seen Mitcham E188CC (VR1-R0A1, but with dimpled getters, these are 1970, rather than 1960), and RTC printed on the tube. I wonder if there are Blackburn E188CC?

post #4400 of 10497
Quote:
Originally Posted by gibosi View Post
 

 

I have seen Mitcham E188CC (VR1-R0A1, but with dimpled getters, these are 1970, rather than 1960), and RTC printed on the tube. I wonder if there are Blackburn E188CC?

 

Hmm, yeah most Mullard-made E188CC and E88CC variations I see seem to be from later times; for example I keep on bumping into RTC branded E188CC but made by Mullard veeeery late in the tube era - actually like 20 years after lol - with late 70s or 80s codes.

 

But no, I don't believe I've seen Blackburn-made Mullards for those types.

 

Quick piece of tube trivia on the earliest, almost prototype-like, Philips Holland E88CC. What I just bought is a 7L3 pinched waist tube, made in Heerlen Holland, which is the last batch to actually have that feature. That batch lasted from sometime early-mid 1957 to late mid-late 1958 - which is a long time compared to other batches.

 

7L2 and 7L3 tubes were made with silver-plated inner wires, which is one of the reason they're supposed to sound so good; most were made in the Heerlen factory, but some 7L2 may have also been made the Eindhoven factory - yeah, that factory that's always in the Philips code lists but never on a tube.

 

But even before those batches, you could find - virtually extinct now - 7L0 and 7L1 batches made in the Eindhoven plant, and made with gold-plated inner wires, which is supposed to be a part of what makes them so good. People seem to say that both the earlier Eindhoven gold-grid revisions and the later Heerlen silver-grid revisions are top tier; some say that the 7L0 and 7L1 are more desirable, but the few people that actually found, bought and tested both seem to say that they're just different. So the pinched waist "trait" seems more important than the grid material used. Not that this matters since all those tubes are rare and cost a leg.

 

Much credit is also given to the 7L4 and 7L5 non-pinched waist D-getter E88CC made in Heerlen, but people say these tubes don't quite have the "magic" - hey, I didn't write this you know, people all over the web do lol - the pinched waist versions do.

 

As far as US-made Amperex pinched waist 6922 go - they're even rarer... - it seems the batches available start a bit later in time and would mostly be 7L4 from '59, maybe earlier. Again, it's hard to even find information on these...

 

E188CC are a different story. The D-getter, Heerlen-made, ones from the VR0, VR1, and part of the VR2 batches from years late 1959 to mid 1960 are clearly more desirable than anything that came after. Why? How? Not many people seem to actually be able to say, but that's the consensus anyways.

 

US-made Amperex 7308 tubes follow the same logic: the earliest 1960 D-getter VR0 batch is supposed to be a whole notch above anything that came afterwards and have a "magic" to it - whatever that means. It's ultra rare anyways, but good to know.

 

Apparently - and I say this both from my experience with the US 6922 and from extensive googling - anything Amperex made in the US beyond 1962, while excellent, just isn't as musical as what came before in the US or in the same time frame in Holland. The difference I heard between a '62 and a '64 US-made 6922 was so striking it kind of convinced me (don't know if gibosi has such a strong feeling about this?).

 

So, for US Amperex, if you're going to fork the major cash to get something good, either aim for the earliest 7308 in 1960, or the 6922 no later than 1962. Most people on ebay don't seem to have picked up on that huge difference between early and late 60s US 6922 tubes, so whether you buy a 1961/62 O-getter 6922 or a 1966 one, you'll essentially see the same prices. So go for the earlier ones!

 

Holland production follows the same pattern, but the cut-off in sound quality is more between D-getter tubes until 1960 and later halo-getter tubes. The early tubes are much better, and sadly people know about it, so prices are indecent... But again, if you're going to fork the cash, the earlier the better.

 

Sorry I'm ranting again, but I figure someone is bound to find something useful in there. At least it save the hours scouting random opinions in pagan languages on google lol...

post #4401 of 10497
Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiofanboy View Post

 

Apparently - and I say this both from my experience with the US 6922 and from extensive googling - anything Amperex made in the US beyond 1962, while excellent, just isn't as musical as what came before in the US or in the same time frame in Holland. The difference I heard between a '62 and a '64 US-made 6922 was so striking it kind of convinced me (don't know if gibosi has such a strong feeling about this?).

 

Yes, I had the same experience...  I have a US 6922 7L6 1961, a US 6922 7L9 1964, and a US 7308 VR5 1966. And it isn't even close. The 1961 6922 is heads and shoulders above the others.

post #4402 of 10497
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post

These ones here will work as the 6CG7 has the same pinout as the 6N6P.
beerchug.gif
Too good to be true...
He doesn't ship to germany...
I am asking the seller if he is somehow agreeing to ship to germany.
Otherwise I have to find another source for these adapters.
post #4403 of 10497

 

 


Edited by mordy - 12/17/13 at 12:16pm
post #4404 of 10497
Quote:
Originally Posted by mordy View Post

Hi CollectoR13,

Did you check this source?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-6CG7-to-6SN7-Vacuum-tube-adapter-socket-converter-/300996698274?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item4614cd20a2#shpCntId

Slightly more money, but I can't see any shipping restrictions.
I think he is looking to plug an octal in as a power tube, so that would be backwards. biggrin.gif
post #4405 of 10497
Quote:
Originally Posted by mordy View Post
 

Hi CollectoR13,

 

Did you check this source?

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-6CG7-to-6SN7-Vacuum-tube-adapter-socket-converter-/300996698274?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item4614cd20a2#shpCntId

 

Slightly more money, but I can't see any shipping restrictions.

If photo is correct, you need first B9A to octal adapter that you can again use 6N6P after this? :popcorn:

post #4406 of 10497

@CollectoR13

 

These ones here would work but would require a minor rewiring inside. They look like they are held together with a hex screw, as long as they are not potted inside it should be an easy conversion.

 

Contact the seller, I have bought sockets from this seller before and he just might make you the ones you need.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2ps-convert-tube-socket-12AX7-12AU7-to-6SL7-6SN7-9-pin-to-8-pin-/281034346185

:beerchug: 


Edited by TrollDragon - 12/17/13 at 12:33pm
post #4407 of 10497
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post
 

@CollectoR13

 

These ones here would work but would require a minor rewiring inside. They look like they are held together with a hex screw, as long as they are not potted inside it should be an easy conversion.

 

Contact the seller, I have bought sockets from this seller before and he just might make you the ones you need.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2ps-convert-tube-socket-12AX7-12AU7-to-6SL7-6SN7-9-pin-to-8-pin-/281034346185

:beerchug: 

But if you do be prepared to wait he's using snail mail but your closer then me . I ordered on 16 november

post #4408 of 10497

HI TD,

 

You are 100% right! I realized my mistake and cancelled the post - at least so I thought.... Post #4403


Edited by mordy - 12/17/13 at 2:42pm
post #4409 of 10497

Do the Mullard M8161 work with the mk iii?

post #4410 of 10497
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beef Anus View Post
 

Do the Mullard M8161 work with the mk iii?

 

yes they sure do

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Headphone Amps (full-size)
Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Headphone Amps (full-size) › Little Dot Tube Amps: Vacuum Tube Rolling Guide