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Little Dot Tube Amps: Vacuum Tube Rolling Guide - Page 258

post #3856 of 10500

If theres a possibility to make like this the copper elboy on right channel is left loose so you can ajust the center distance by ajusting the lenght of it because not doing this is almost impossible to get the center distance  perfectly i think

post #3857 of 10500
Quote:
Originally Posted by MIKELAP View Post
 

 

I measured with a vernier and from  center to center it measures 1.570 or 40 m.m.(1.575) i measured this from holes in chassis not the rings so it should be the same as littledot 4 but sockets arent exactly in middle read next post

Thanks MIKELAP!

When did you say you were getting your lathe and vertical miller? :D

 

The MKIV's sockets are on 50mm center's so I will most likely have to trim down the elbows as well. There is not really any easy way to have the width adjustable that I can see.

 

The bottom pieces turn so socket oreientation is not a problem and the width is not much bigger than a tube, so I don't think that the socket position in the hole should be an issue either.

 

If I can't get the width right without making it look like the dogs dinner then it just won't be done.


Edited by TrollDragon - 11/8/13 at 6:38am
post #3858 of 10500

Some glow of the octals.

700

post #3859 of 10500
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post
 

Thanks MIKELAP!

When did you say you were getting your lathe and vertical miller? :D

 

The MKIV's sockets are on 50mm center's so I will most likely have to trim down the elbows as well. There is not really any easy way to have the width adjustable that I can see.And also from what you said will probably have to make a stepped bushing for the 9 pin socket thats another story !

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    

 

The bottom pieces turn so socket oreientation is not a problem and the width is not much bigger than a tube, so I don't think that the socket position in the hole should be an issue either.

 

If I can't get the width right without making it look like the dogs dinner then it just won't be done.

For the socket to socket distance i guess best thing is to install the sockets themselves in LD if you are using sockets because they fit perfectly in copper elboy and just install copper body over the sockets epoxy and let dry installed on littledot .This is how i want to do the 7pin socket and possibly use shrink tubing or something like the wrapping they used on the adaptors so its a durable adaptor.

Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, R1.1.1.M2b

 


Edited by MIKELAP - 11/8/13 at 7:19am
post #3860 of 10500
Quote:
Originally Posted by Artsi View Post
 

Some glow of the octals.

700

so jealous!

post #3861 of 10500
Quote:
Originally Posted by MIKELAP View Post
 

For the socket to socket distance i guess best thing is to install the sockets themselves in LD if you are using sockets because they fit perfectly in copper elboy and just install copper body over the sockets epoxy and let dry installed on littledot .This is how i want to do the 7pin socket and possibly use shrink tubing or something like the wrapping they used on the adaptors so its a durable adaptor.

 

 

Very Nice!

That will work great and don't forget to round off the ends of those wires. ;)

post #3862 of 10500
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oskari View Post
 

 

Please, let's try to call things by their proper names. It was not Amperex machinery. Even the machinery of the Amperex tube plant in Hicksville, New York was supplied by Philips, of which Amperex was a US subsidiary.

 

Oops, sorry Oskari, and anyone else whose sensibilities may have been adversely affected by my less-than-perfect terminology. I bow to your greater knowledge in these matters...

 

In mitigation, I understood that the machinery that made 'Holland Amperex' (as with Siemens tubes) was shipped out to Japan and that, my neglect to put 'Amperex machinery' in parentheses notwithstanding, the actual meaning would generally be understood . Ah well, can't win 'em all I suppose...will try to do better...

post #3863 of 10500

post #3864 of 10500
Quote:
Originally Posted by gibosi View Post
 

 

Welcome to double triode land! :)

 

I found the Voskhod 6N2P-EV to be less bright than Holland-made Amperex 6DJ8, with a strong, but somewhat loose bass. And this was after 20 hours of use. But you have a pair of -ERs, not -EVs, so yours may well sound different. Further, I haven't heard any of the Japanese-manufactured 6DJ8s, so I have no idea how they might compare to Holland-made Amperex. Looking forward to learning how your Voskhods compare to your future acquisitions. Currently, my favorite Soviet tube is a 1979 Voskhod 6N23P.

 

I had a nice pair of Tesla PCC88 and thought that they were very good sounding tubes. However, their build-quality was lacking. Both of the Teslas broke as a result of bending and then re-straightening the pins. But since you won't be mangling your tubes, you should be good. lol :)

 

Hi Gibosi.

 

Thanks for the warm welcome...glad I've finally discovered what you have all been eulogising about. The wait, not to mention blood, sweat and tears has been well worth it. And not having to bend any pins - with the potential for some seriously frustrating (not to mention expensive) damage - certainly is a godsend. As is the ability to make sure all the triodes get regular use.

 

How interesting that your 6N2P-EV was less bright than the Amperex. My ERs need to tone down a fair bit as yet, so yes, there must be quite a difference between the two tubes. It will be very interesting to see how my '70s 6N23Ps compare...there just aren't enough hours in the day, or days in the week lol

 

My Japanese 6DJ8 (Amperex versions) have now, quite surprisingly, developed MORE in the treble arena ...in the past my tubes have only ever gone in the opposite direction...strange...

And I swear the bass has retracted a little after 10 hours - probably has tightened, but appears less. Perhaps this is allowing more treble frequencies to come through? Whatever, they are sounding much more interesting already. Can't wait to pop the Voskhods back in, to compare anew.

 

So the Teslas might be a good find? Certainly hope so...sorry about yours. I do hope you don't lose any more of your tubes...

post #3865 of 10500
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post
 

 

Careful now, TD!!!

post #3866 of 10500
Quote:
Originally Posted by hypnos1 View Post
 

 

Careful now, TD!!!

All in good fun! :D

post #3867 of 10500
Quote:
Originally Posted by hypnos1 View Post
 

Oops, sorry Oskari, and anyone else whose sensibilities may have been adversely affected by my less-than-perfect terminology. I bow to your greater knowledge in these matters...

 

Thanks for taking it personally. That's how it was meant. Obviously.

post #3868 of 10500
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oskari View Post
 

 

Thanks for taking it personally. That's how it was meant. Obviously.

 

Oh dear, oh dear...the beauty (and success) of this thread for a long time now has been the generosity of spirit shown by all, no matter what sort of faux-pas made by any member, whether newbie or veteran. I sincerely hope this wonderful tradition is not in jeopardy. Obviously.

post #3869 of 10500

Speaking of beauty, I think I just found the way I can make smaller (lower and skinnier) adapters.

 

Very simply: I broke two 9 pins ceramic sockets with a hammer and kept the 18 resulting metal holes+soldering tabs. That obviously -wait no, wrong word lol- definitely wasn't my original intention, but half way through my trial, I saw the light.

 

Using just the metal holes+tabs, I should able to make some fairly compact adapters which I'll just need to drown in hot glue and hide in apiece of copper tubing; no cumbersome ceramic parts or unflexible sockets to deal with. I'll just need to use a B9A tube to hold the metal holes+tabs in place while I solder them to the B7A "base" so that the whole structure stays somewhat straight. This way, I don't even need to bother with 9 tabs on top and 7 pins on the bottom part of the adapter, I can just use the 5 tabs and pins I need and have a less crowded adapter; theoretically...

 

Work in progress, actually work not started...

post #3870 of 10500
Quote:
Originally Posted by hypnos1 View Post
 

Oh dear, oh dear...the beauty (and success) of this thread for a long time now has been the generosity of spirit shown by all, no matter what sort of faux-pas made by any member, whether newbie or veteran. I sincerely hope this wonderful tradition is not in jeopardy. Obviously.

 

In the interest of making amends, I offer you another piece of my greater knowledge, as you so eloquently put it. Matsush¡ta was making tubes using Philips technology long before Philips ceased tube production in Europe. What do you make of that?

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