Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Headphone Amps (full-size) › Little Dot Tube Amps: Vacuum Tube Rolling Guide
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Little Dot Tube Amps: Vacuum Tube Rolling Guide - Page 256

post #3826 of 7471
Quote:
Originally Posted by MIKELAP View Post
 

Built to last nice 

 

Thanks!

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by vic2vic View Post
 

 Maybe a stupid question (I'm a noob in soldering): is there a place on eBay where I can buy a bunch of these nice multicolored short copper wires ? So far I've found only "breadboard wires", but it seems they are thick (not strended) and probably not even copper ones. Need them at reasonable price with shipping to Europe. Thanks

A local hardware or automotive parts store is your best bet, the wire I used is all 22AWG with a pair of 18AWG since I ran out of 22... :D

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiofanboy View Post
 

It's funny how looking at this mod without the copper parts, it strangely reminds me of my "flying 12AT7" experiment that sparked the whole thing lol! Looking forward to seeing the final version; meanwhile I'm still trying to find the best way to make some tamer adapters for each socket on the IV SE...

 

Speaking of 12V tubes, I've put a few very nice 12AX7 up for sale, since I just can't afford to keep stashes and stashes of premium tubes...

 

http://www.head-fi.org/t/689111/telefunken-12ax7-ecc83-tubes-1-ribbed-plates-2-smooth-plates

 

These are some of the best -actual- 12AX7/ECC83 you can get, and they really sound great on our amps. The EI especially have tremendous value, but the Telefunken tube lives up to its reputation.

 

Back to ebay to shop some more now ;) .

 

YOU are the reason we are all doing this Good Sir! :D

Inspiration was had from your "flying 12AT7" for sure. I just had to test before the copper clad when on.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by gibosi View Post
 

 

What kind of socket are you using? And how are you connecting the wires to it? 

Salvaged from the PCB of an old console system.

This is a picture of the 7 pin version which I do not have.

These were made to plug into PCB holes and be soldered. I just put the wire between opening and soldered, a little heatshrink and it looks like plugs but it is not. These old sockets are cheap and flimsy as well so you have to be gentle with them.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by MIKELAP View Post
 

Looks like bullet type connector but with heat shrinked  tubing. wires look to be bigger than gauge  22 maybe 16 gauge

 

That is a great idea BUT the less non soldered connections you have in the chain the better all around it will be.

 

I'm going to see if I can get the copper clad on it tonight and I'll post pic's if it works out well. Also looking forward to see what AFB comes up with for the MKIV.

 

If I had access to a metal shop I'd place a 9 pin B9A chassis mount socket in the middle between all 4 tubes and bore a hole down through for the wires. Then a nice little finish on it and your done, just dont plug in the B7G's and B9A at the same time.  :D 

post #3827 of 7471
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post
 

 

Thanks!

A local hardware or automotive parts store is your best bet, the wire I used is all 22AWG with a pair of 18AWG since I ran out of 22... :D

 

 

YOU are the reason we are all doing this Good Sir! :D

Inspiration was had from your "flying 12AT7" for sure. I just had to test before the copper clad when on.

 

Salvaged from the PCB of an old console system.

This is a picture of the 7 pin version which I do not have.

These were made to plug into PCB holes and be soldered. I just put the wire between opening and soldered, a little heatshrink and it looks like plugs but it is not. These old sockets are cheap and flimsy as well so you have to be gentle with them.

 

 

That is a great idea BUT the less non soldered connections you have in the chain the better all around it will be.

 

I'm going to see if I can get the copper clad on it tonight and I'll post pic's if it works out well. Also looking forward to see what AFB comes up with for the MKIV.

 

If I had access to a metal shop I'd place a 9 pin B9A chassis mount socket in the middle between all 4 tubes and bore a hole down through for the wires. Then a nice little finish on it and your done, just dont plug in the B7G's and B9A at the same time.  :D 

Thats it , i had enough i am going back to work .Just kidding ,just kidding. but damm would i like a lathe and a milling wright now. :L3000:

post #3828 of 7471
Quote:
Originally Posted by MIKELAP View Post

Thats it , i had enough i am going back to work .Just kidding ,just kidding. but damm would i like a lathe and a milling wright now. L3000.gif
I would be on your doorstep with my amp under my arm and we'd do it up proper! biggrin.gif
post #3829 of 7471

FINALLY! - Have managed to get down to constructing my B9 to B7 adapter...those brown ceramic ones didn't really appeal (but they sure would have been a darned site easier!). So now I can enter dble triode land. YIPEE...except some of those prices seem to me somewhat OTT.

Therefore will be starting with some Zaerix 6DJ8s; Phillips ECG 6922s (JAN); Voskhod 6N23Ps ('70s) and 6N2P - ERs, and a pair of RCA 6DJ8s - Made in Japan, except one does say so on the tube but the other has Holland on it, and they look absolutely identical. Perhaps I got lucky here...Japanese Amperex or Dutch? Can't wait to see how these perform especially...

 

Anyway, can't resist showing the results of my blood, sweat and tears - not to mention rather fruity language! The tube atop is one of the V/Hod 6N2P-ERs, and what a beautifully made thing it is too...

 

 

This one is wired for triode 1, the other will be for #2 - therefore periodic swapping of the tubes will keep all triodes happy. And me...

 

Glad to say this first one works...just hope to God the second does also, as the insides are sealed with resin - so if at first I don't succeed, trying again is NOT an option! Apart from starting all over again from scratch with a new one - which fills me with dread!!

 

Am I feeling lucky? I'll let you know...

 

BFN folks.

post #3830 of 7471
Quote:
Originally Posted by hypnos1 View Post
 

a pair of RCA 6DJ8s - Made in Japan, except one does say so on the tube but the other has Holland on it, and they look absolutely identical. Perhaps I got lucky here...Japanese Amperex or Dutch? Can't wait to see how these perform especially...

 

The correct manufacturer names would be Matsush¡ta and Philips. That's assuming we can trust what's printed on the tubes, which we always can't. The Dutch-made tube should have an acid-etched code that identifies the factory.

 

You never know who made a particular Zaerix-branded tube, until you know. They were rebranders and could have rebranded anything.

post #3831 of 7471
Quote:
Originally Posted by gibosi View Post
 

 

http://www.radiodaze.com/product/15450.aspx

THANKS but that place charge $35 for shipping.

post #3832 of 7471
Quote:
Originally Posted by i luvmusic 2 View Post
 

THANKS but that place charge $35 for shipping.

Its a mistake i just bought 4 vector sockets from them to Montreal shipping was $10.00 for 4  Vector sockets cost me $30.00 total


Edited by MIKELAP - 11/6/13 at 4:13pm
post #3833 of 7471
Quote:
Originally Posted by MIKELAP View Post
 

Its a mistake i just bought 4 vector sockets from them to Montreal shipping was $10.00 for 4  Vector sockets cost me $30.00 total

I

I hope so i will try again and see.

post #3834 of 7471
Quote:
Originally Posted by hypnos1 View Post
 

FINALLY! - Have managed to get down to constructing my B9 to B7 adapter...those brown ceramic ones didn't really appeal (but they sure would have been a darned site easier!). So now I can enter dble triode land. YIPEE...except some of those prices seem to me somewhat OTT.

Therefore will be starting with some Zaerix 6DJ8s; Phillips ECG 6922s (JAN); Voskhod 6N23Ps ('70s) and 6N2P - ERs, and a pair of RCA 6DJ8s - Made in Japan, except one does say so on the tube but the other has Holland on it, and they look absolutely identical. Perhaps I got lucky here...Japanese Amperex or Dutch? Can't wait to see how these perform especially...

 

 

 

Before I make some nice fireworks out of my LD MK II+...is the wiring exactly the same for 6N23P - 6N2P - 6DJ8 tubes ? I'm planning to build an adapter from one B9A to 2x B7G.

Thanks

post #3835 of 7471
Quote:
Originally Posted by vic2vic View Post
 

Before I make some nice fireworks out of my LD MK II+...is the wiring exactly the same for 6N23P - 6N2P - 6DJ8 tubes ? I'm planning to build an adapter from one B9A to 2x B7G.

Thanks

 

Yes, the pin-out is identical for these tubes, so the same adapter will work for all three.  :)

post #3836 of 7471
Anyone have any tubes that send a "Ping" noise while warming up? One of the 6Ж5П's I have will emit this noise once or twice. Just wondering if it is the tube being a little microphonic and the glass heating up that causes the noise?

Not a big deal, just a unique sound. biggrin.gif
post #3837 of 7471
My amperex 6DJ8 keeps all kind of noises when warming up. reason must be A getter frame and other parts that move little bit when warming.
post #3838 of 7471
Thanks Artsi, I figured it was something along those lines. biggrin.gif
post #3839 of 7471
Quote:
Originally Posted by hypnos1 View Post
 

This one is wired for triode 1, the other will be for #2 - therefore periodic swapping of the tubes will keep all triodes happy. And me...

 

Glad to say this first one works...just hope to God the second does also, as the insides are sealed with resin - so if at first I don't succeed, trying again is NOT an option! Apart from starting all over again from scratch with a new one - which fills me with dread!!

 

Am I feeling lucky? I'll let you know...

 

BFN folks.

 

Lol, it's like you read my mind; I'm building my two adapters with the exact same plan in mind! Hopefully, a switch between triode sections every, say, 20-50 hours could save all four triodes from cathode poisoning (and from losing their rather high resell value) and make the "two double triodes with only one section used' solution more appealing and less wasteful.

 

Glad your first adapter worked on you first try. I've had times in the past when I got too excited and drowned a freshly made DIY adapter in hot glue before testing, and had a bad surprise a few minutes later, so now I'm extra careful about that...

 

I'm trying to make adapters that are even a bit smaller and thinner than yours though, like no more than 1.25cm or 1/2" high and with with narrowed B9A sockets. I'll take a picture when I'm done -if I ever manage to be lol...

post #3840 of 7471
Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiofanboy View Post
 

 

Lol, it's like you read my mind; I'm building my two adapters with the exact same plan in mind! Hopefully, a switch between triode sections every, say, 20-50 hours could save all four triodes from cathode poisoning (and from losing their rather high resell value) and make the "two double triodes with only one section used' solution more appealing and less wasteful.

 

Glad your first adapter worked on you first try. I've had times in the past when I got too excited and drowned a freshly made DIY adapter in hot glue before testing, and had a bad surprise a few minutes later, so now I'm extra careful about that...

 

I'm trying to make adapters that are even a bit smaller and thinner than yours though, like no more than 1.25cm or 1/2" high and with with narrowed B9A sockets. I'll take a picture when I'm done -if I ever manage to be lol...

 

You gonna make 'em even SMALLER? Ye Gods, AFB, you've got much nimbler fingers and better eyes than mine then... GOOD LUCK! Mind you, I was using B9As with gold  'pins' inside rather than terminals on the outer edge - I DEFY you to make a 1/2" one with the latter babies!! Look forward to seeing your final result...

 

Would have loved to test the contraption before gluing, but was afraid of possible wire connection damage when trying to extricate the tiny tube/socket base from the LD before really securely attached to the body...catch 22?

 

Early update so far...(ridiculously early for a Russian!), but with just 12 hours on and an Ei 6HM5 in the right channel, this 6N2P-ER is already showing amazing promise...a tad bright of course, and the extra (!) soundstage has vocals a bit less forward, but hey, with practically no burn-in yet and a not-too-mismatched (from the sound of it) tube as a mate, I am rather 'gobsmacked' to say the least...Added incentive to finish adapter number 2, and bodes really well for the other tubes...I suspect a possible divorce in the offing!!

 

 

Hi vic2vic.

 

Gibosi has kindly answered your question...yes, all the same...

 

Hi Oskari.

 

Thanks for your info...will be trying to find some hidden codes - SOMEwhere...

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Headphone Amps (full-size)
Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Headphone Amps (full-size) › Little Dot Tube Amps: Vacuum Tube Rolling Guide