or Connect
Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Headphone Amps (full-size) › Little Dot Tube Amps: Vacuum Tube Rolling Guide
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Little Dot Tube Amps: Vacuum Tube Rolling Guide - Page 216

post #3226 of 10509
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post
 

So for those of us who are unwashed in the horrifying death of a tube.

 

What happens? Hum, Silence, Flames or does it Grenade and send shards of glass flying everywhere? (I'll have to pick up a helmet and visor for the cat). ;)

On a serious note, it probably would be wise to snap the power off right away and take the headphones out of the jack.

:beerchug: 

There was hum... then more hum (started listening this morning @10am and then about 2 hours ago the hum got really loud... and then a pop sound and nothing... left channel went dead... pulled my PS500 cord out real quick... and now the GE 6DT6 experiment is now over (they weren't very good anyways)... lost 2 of the 3 tubes I had of those in 2 days lol

 

Now back to the Sylvania 6DT6A I love so much lol (yes I'm cheating on the RCA's)

post #3227 of 10509
Quote:
Originally Posted by mordy View Post
 

kvtaco 17,

 

Your mortality rate is too high! I had very few tubes die on me, and it was then mainly to trauma. One of my expensive Dutch $85/pair Amperex 5654 tubes fell off a speaker from fright and broke when I cranked up the bass full tilt on a drum recording. (Just kidding, paid $2 but saw them advertised for that price). A 5654 RCA tube lost the vacuum and turned all white inside, maybe from old age - no trauma. A couple of tubes broke during shipping.

 

Another three tubes that became silent were revived by scraping the pins gently with my trusty pocket knife. Did you try this?

 

Curious to know what happened that the tubes stopped functioning?

 

 

The GE's lost vacuum (no dropping or mishandling) and the Sylvania I dropped trying to open a door.

 

I only really cared about the Sylvania, BUT I have another matching pair so not all is lost!


Edited by kvtaco17 - 10/2/13 at 12:03pm
post #3228 of 10509
Quote:
Originally Posted by kvtaco17 View Post
 

There was hum... then more hum (started listening this morning @10am and then about 2 hours ago the hum got really loud... and then a pop sound and nothing... left channel went dead... pulled my PS500 cord out real quick... and now the GE 6DT6 experiment is now over (they weren't very good anyways)... lost 2 of the 3 tubes I had of those in 2 days lol

 

Now back to the Sylvania 6DT6A I love so much lol (yes I'm cheating on the RCA's)

 

Thanks!

:beerchug:

post #3229 of 10509

Popular Science 1944, a neat little article.

What Tube Can I Use?

post #3230 of 10509

Just wanted to report that the Sylvania side getter box top 6AV6 have reached a toe tapping index of 5 after 20 hours, so these can be recommended together with the RCAs.

 

I found that most of the tube pictures on Ebay don't show you clearly if the tube has a box on top. Perhaps emailing the seller a picture and asking him to look will help.

post #3231 of 10509

you are correct, and most of the sellers I've asked have the halo or side getter...

 

I assume you like the RCA's better then the Sylvania's then? How are they different sonically?

post #3232 of 10509
Quote:
Originally Posted by hypnos1 View Post
 

 

Hi gibosi - and oskari - and anyone else interested, as things seem to have gone very quiet on the 6HM5 front (no wonder, with the exciting experiments going on courtesy of AFB once again!...).

 

Anyway, my "premium quality tubes for export" arrived today and my word, they are of VERY classy construction. Yugoslavia on them, with codes that ARE Philips, but NOT Mullard...

Actually : tZ1 (= tube type PCC 85 ) and G5A (G being Loewe Opta, post-1954, and Mullard/Fleetwood prior. As 5 must be '65, we are looking at Loewe therefore - no wonder the tubes look classy...they are quite some outfit, no? And no doubt VERY picky...

 

So, popped them in; gasped at the blinding flash from their bottoms that ensued; resisted the temptation to switch everything off; calmed down as they settled to a beautiful glow, and (thankfully) was rewarded with a sound that bodes very well indeed right from the off. These would appear to have the potential to knock the lovely RCA 6DT6As off their lovely perch...time will tell...

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiofanboy View Post
 

 

 

Factory code "G", you sure? Maybe factory code:

 

 

EI, Nish factory, (ex-)Yugoslavia. The similarity with a "G" isn't that obvious here, but on the pics of real tubes I've seen and on my EI ECC88, the factory code circle is longer and more "circle-like", making it look like a 90° turned G to the untrained eye -or uninformed soul lol.

 

Factory code "G" would make little sense, whereas the EI factory is about the only Yugoslavian tube maker I know about.

 

Depending on the tube type, EI could have used Philips machinery (ECC88 for instance), Telefunken machinery (ECC83 for example) and maybe even some other production gear for all I know. These tubes, with their shape (top "nib") and codes, could have been made on ex-Philips gear. Or maybe not. If we compare it to a Mullard Blackburn or Philips Heerlen-made tube, we might be able to tell.

 

Hi AFB.

 

Many thanks for putting me on the right track - with stronger glasses, more light and an indication of what to look out for, NOW I see the inverted "G" is NOT a "G", but a very strange symbol similar to your diagram. Sincere apologies for misleading/confusing anyone with my mistake...

 

They are still, however, a very nicely-made tube and I look forward to hearing more opinions on them. As for myself, early impressions surprised me somewhat, as the sound was quite different to the RCA 6DT6As, and after 20+hrs I still can't decide whether I prefer them or not. I think it could well be down to the extra soundstage/'3D' effect plus more detail. But at the moment I am wondering if this is at the expense of a certain degree of focus and coherence...Vocals appear a bit further in the distance, and to get the same hard-hitting bass requires more volume, which is not so good for my ears! Everything is so wonderfully 'clean' and clear, however, that I pray further burn-in will resolve such matters...Or that I simply need to get used to the different sound!

Whatever, I do hope more of you get the chance to try out these tubes and post your findings.

BTW - setting is EF95, no strap (don't know if any other is possible/adviseable...)

post #3233 of 10509
Quote:
Originally Posted by hypnos1 View Post
 

tZ1 (= tube type PCC 85 )

 

Are you sure about the tZ type code?

post #3234 of 10509
Quote:
Originally Posted by hypnos1 View Post
 

 

 

 

Hi AFB.

 

Many thanks for putting me on the right track - with stronger glasses, more light and an indication of what to look out for, NOW I see the inverted "G" is NOT a "G", but a very strange symbol similar to your diagram. Sincere apologies for misleading/confusing anyone with my mistake...

 

They are still, however, a very nicely-made tube and I look forward to hearing more opinions on them. As for myself, early impressions surprised me somewhat, as the sound was quite different to the RCA 6DT6As, and after 20+hrs I still can't decide whether I prefer them or not. I think it could well be down to the extra soundstage/'3D' effect plus more detail. But at the moment I am wondering if this is at the expense of a certain degree of focus and coherence...Vocals appear a bit further in the distance, and to get the same hard-hitting bass requires more volume, which is not so good for my ears! Everything is so wonderfully 'clean' and clear, however, that I pray further burn-in will resolve such matters...Or that I simply need to get used to the different sound!

Whatever, I do hope more of you get the chance to try out these tubes and post your findings.

BTW - setting is EF95, no strap (don't know if any other is possible/adviseable...)

 

Glad I could help :beyersmile: .

 

And yes, those EI Yugo tubes are known for being good deals (solid olde world European tubes for decent prices).

 

Keep up the good work; we need more people testing new tubes here, can't risk tube stagnation and money saving lol...

post #3235 of 10509
Quote:
Originally Posted by mordy View Post
 

Hi Mikelap,

 

The plot thickens:

 

First of all, I never heard of 6BJ6. Checked my copy of the page 77 list - not there. Went back to the page on the computer. Yep, it is there now with a note that it has not been tested. Are you the first one?

 

Next: The box says JTL which means Tung Sol. The tube on the picture says JHS which means Sylvania, which is also printed on the tube. Then the box says 188 after the number 5960. 188 is GE.

 

A triple whammy? Tripolar?

 

In the Hi Fi world there are two categories of people: Those who like the equipment and those who like the sound. I guess most people on this forum are a combination of both. First I was happy with M8100. Then I was happy with 6J5. Then I was happy with 6AU6/4825. Then I was happy with 6AH6WA. Then I was happy with the EH90/6CS6. Then I was happy with 6DT6. Now I am happy with 6AV6.

 

Cannot go back to the first two, but I could live with the others  on my list. Who knows what the next favorite is going to be? I don't really collect tubes, but am searching for the one that is going to sound best for me. So I have probably over 300 tubes by now, but I am only using maybe 30-40 of them.

 

It is a lot of fun to do tube exploration and tube rolling. When I first tried the 6AV6 I could not stand them because the sound stage was crazy with the back in the front. Luckily I did not throw out the tubes. Then we were informed that box top was the secret, and I discovered the fabulous sound of one half of a 12AT7.

 

After all is said and done,to me, the final reward is listening.....

 

Thats weird ill return em i asked for Tung-Sol dont want nobody's bastard child a FRANKENTUBE lol.Thats why i got those because they were untested there is not many tubes i dont like either they basically sound all good but have subtle differences which causes the writing on the dang tube to come off just gotta be careful i guess.Maybe if i had 20 year old ears i wouldnt have to change them so often to make up my mind .Thankfully there is some young ears on this thread that will guide us through SUBTILITY AND BEYOND .......

post #3236 of 10509
Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiofanboy View Post
 

 

Glad I could help :beyersmile: .

 

And yes, those EI Yugo tubes are known for being good deals (solid olde world European tubes for decent prices).

 

Keep up the good work; we need more people testing new tubes here, can't risk tube stagnation and money saving lol...

 

Like they say ¨ THE ONLY GOOD WALLET IS AN EMPTY WALLET¨ i think !

post #3237 of 10509
Quote:
Originally Posted by MIKELAP View Post

Like they say ¨ THE ONLY GOOD WALLET IS AN EMPTY WALLET¨ i think !
But what if the wallet is empty to start with? frown.gif
What Do... What Do? biggrin.gif
Edited by TrollDragon - 10/2/13 at 1:17pm
post #3238 of 10509
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post


But what if the wallet is empty to start with? frown.gif
What Do... What Do? biggrin.gif

 

i will have to Google that one. ill get back to you !

post #3239 of 10509

EMPTY IT MOAR! lol

post #3240 of 10509

Maybe use the stuff on the left of this wallet? No, no, don't max out any credit cards. Just a strange observation: In the tube world less money buys you the same tube that is up to 20 times more from another seller. Would be great just to point to anything at Yen Audio and say: I'll take a dozen! Personally, I just can't do it....

 

 

empty-wallet-sad-face1.jpg

Here is an example:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GE-6AV6-Electronic-Vacuum-Tube-Lot-of-2-/160534029223?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item256092e3a7

 

and another example:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-2-Pair-GE-6AV6-NOS-NIB-Tubes-/290988243927?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item43c0403bd7

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Headphone Amps (full-size)
Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Headphone Amps (full-size) › Little Dot Tube Amps: Vacuum Tube Rolling Guide