Little Dot Tube Amps: Vacuum Tube Rolling Guide - Page 22

Hello,

matching means from what I know about it the electrical value of the tubes is almost the same or very close.

Personally I think matching is not that important. Maybe when it comes to powertubes differing a lot but if you don't hear a difference in volume between the channels there's not a problem I think.

I use mainly unmatched pairs of drivertubes and haven't had a problem with that.

Matching the tubes is very important for the people who sell tubes because they can charge much more for them. And everybody knows that a pair of matching Voskhods for $36 sound much better than a pair of unmatched Voskhods for $4.

Did I mention that the Mullard Large Shield sound much better than the Mullard Small Shield? (or was it the other way around?)

What about the superior sonic characteristics of black plate over gray plate? You gotta hear it to believe it! (I can't)

And everybody knows that a $15 spray can of Deoxit removes the oxidation on the pins much better than scraping it off carefully with something you have sitting around like an old pen knife or small scissors (free). (Scraping works better)

It is also well known that to get the most out of your $200 Little Dot MkIII you must spend well over $200 on DR power tubes to make it sound it's best. Yeah, right!

I am using $4 driver tubes and $5 power tubes (I'll bet that the gold and platinum in them is worth something), and the sound is WONDERFUL!

The reason you bought the Little Dot MkIII was that you wanted something cheap and good. Keep it that way!

I also agree that there is very little value to spending the extra for matched tubes at least on something like a MK III and using inexpensive tubes. Especially if they are from the same batch I don't see how there could be massive discrepancies between them. That's just like, my opinion, man.

Loving my 4 dollar unmatched JAN GE 5654W's on the MK III   

I will concede that If I was spending the money on some DR supertubes it would be kinda silly not to spend the (relatively) little bit extra for matching.

In my eyes there's nothing to add to the previous posting!

I own and use the DR powertubes but I wouldn't spend the amount of money for them... they were included in my buying.

Good to know that matching tubes is not as important as I had been led to believe.

That'll make it that much cheap to stock up on tubes!

though i have a tube tester i generally purchase tubes matched and just check for DOA.

It is true that within the same batch it should be relatively similar though there are small tolerances.

problem is people just selling same date codes and selling them as matched.

and with most tubes rated for 5000 + hrs i'd be happy to spend 10-20 per set and buy them matched then be paranoid about left and right sounding off.

Quote:

Originally Posted by elecsheep9 

Good to know that matching tubes is not as important as I had been led to believe.

 

That'll make it that much cheap to stock up on tubes!

That makes 2 of us i am new to tubes and fortunately didnt spend a fortune so far .I see plenty of 5654, 6ak5 at $4.00 or $5.00 each but one thing what about the power tubes i heard it is necessary to match those is that correct .

been playing my mkiii for a little while and i think i've hit on a couple combination of tubes i like.

stock power tubes + GE JAN5654W

stock GE drivers are too dull for me.

Amperex 5654 are really nice but a little thin compared to the military GEs. The GEs are detailed and add midrange oomph, that's the best way i can put it.

Sovtek 6H60P power tubes + Novosibirsk 6J1P

The 6H30 power tubes really thinned out what the military GEs were doing.

The Russian 6j1p were on hand and kapow. Dynamic with an active populated midrange.

So, Russian power tubes and drivers made for rockets equals super linearity.

I love this thing - great head trip.

The first combination is five star nice but the second whips -ass.

awesome thread .

got my mk iv se a few days ago and have been loving it! looking forward to "tube rolling"

Thanks for the very detailed and excellent reviews!  I just ordered a Little Dot I+ and also ordered a matched pair of Mullard M8083 large shields.

I just got a pair of gold-platinum grid with gold pins 6J1P-EV made in 1977. Still on the first hour of burn in but i have to say it sounds much brighter than my CV4010s, almost solid state like..  I'm wondering if this is the way it is meant to sound or further burn in will alter the character of the sound? I'm missing   the warmth of the CV4010s already.. 

Your Mullards should be the warmest tubes available.The Voskhods aren't thin or bright at all burned in once. You'll probably appreciate their kind of sound while listening with them for a longer time. Just see them as an alternative, maybe better for another music genre?

Thanks for the info, i've given them around 4-5 hours of play time and probably some adjustment on my ears i think i can live with them after all. They work much better as a pre amp now due to cleaner bass and more solid highs!

Try this link. 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-pc-6J1P-EV-EF95-6F32-6AK7-Gold-Platinum-grid-NIB-/130436695928?pt=Vintage_Electronics_R2&hash=item1e5ea20778#ht_5182wt_1163