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Little Dot Tube Amps: Vacuum Tube Rolling Guide - Page 128

post #1906 of 7199
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaywillin View Post

ok, they say the only stupid question is the question you dont ask

 

how do you open the LD1+, to adjust for different tubes, lol

i don't just want to start unscrewing everything,


nevermind !! got it !! lol

post #1907 of 7199
Quote:
Originally Posted by siles1991 View Post

Was planning to get these since few pages back I was suggested to get them. http://www.ebay.com.my/itm/6N6P-IR-ECC99-E182CC-high-durable-double-triode-tubes-Lot-of-2-pc-NOS-/300693108383?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4602b4b69f&_uhb=1#ht_698wt_1139

 

Would this be right? The 6N6P-IR.

 

Ask these guys from which year they are. If older than 1984, go for it. Definitely.

post #1908 of 7199
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post

I have a LD MKIV with stock tubes now so I am just starting down the road of tube collection. I have been offered a pair of NOS unused Mullard 4010's. What is a fair price to pay for those?
In following this thread for a while I see everyone getting Heptode's, are they all very similar sounding? And if I do decide to pick some up should I look for multiples instead of pairs? Possibly thinking about channel imbalance.

Just new to the tube game, sorry if these questions have been answered before but the search function on HF leaves a lot to be desired.

Thanks!
 

 

The best price I see on eBay today for a CV4010 is GBP 5.00 (Approximately US $7.56), per tube, plus shipping, so you might want to use this a pricing guide. Paying a premium for a "Matched" pair is a waste of money, in my opinion.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CV4010-EF95-6AK5W-6AK5-MULLARD-EX-NEW-EQIP-VALVE-TUBE-/390325556807?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Valves_Vacuum_Tubes&hash=item5ae1375647

 

I would say that there is quite a bit of variation regarding the sound of heptodes, but even so, IMO, the average heptode sounds better than the CV4010 you are currently considering. My best advice is to pick up some inexpensive American brands and give them a try: Sylvania 5915, RCA 5915 or IBM 1680 (made by RCA) would be a good start. The European E91H or 6687 (the same tube, with either or both numbers written on the glass) are also relatively easy to find (To the best of my knowledge, all E91H/6687 were manufactured in the Philips factory located in Heerlen, Holland, regardless of brand.)

post #1909 of 7199

ok, i do need some help, my little dot, doesn't look like the one on the little dot website(the pic with the bottom opened up)

also, i'm gonna take a wild guess and say that the wires connecting to two tube sockets is strapping ?

i guess my question, is what are we looking at here ?? what tubes is the amp set up for ?? i hope the pics are good enough for someone to tell ,thanks

 

 

 

post #1910 of 7199
Hey jaywillin!
Have you looked at the Manual it has all that info in it. smily_headphones1.gif
www.littledot.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=819&sid=192ba6cf4956b456227959e608107841#p3202

Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191 using Tapatalk 2
post #1911 of 7199
Quote:
Originally Posted by Acapella11 View Post

Ask these guys from which year they are. If older than 1984, go for it. Definitely.

That's the same seller I got mine from. Definitely worth the upgrade!
post #1912 of 7199
Hey gibosi!
Thanks very much for the info, the offer of the 4010's was for almost double the ones you linked on eBay, so I'll take a pass on those and hunt down some of your suggestions for sure.
The 4 tubes linked a page back, I think they were Sylvania's were sold by a seller in my province here so I probably could have got those without shipping, but alas they are gone. biggrin.gif

Thanks again for the great info, this is going to be fun!
beerchug.gif

Sent from my HTC Desire HD A9191 using Tapatalk 2
post #1913 of 7199
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaywillin View Post

ok, i do need some help, my little dot, doesn't look like the one on the little dot website(the pic with the bottom opened up)

also, i'm gonna take a wild guess and say that the wires connecting to two tube sockets is strapping ?

i guess my question, is what are we looking at here ?? what tubes is the amp set up for ?? i hope the pics are good enough for someone to tell ,thanks

 

 

It appears that your amp is set up for EF95 tubes. The jumpers required to run EF91/92 and 408A tubes do not appear to be in place.

 

However, I wonder if you are a bit confused about "strapping". Please check out page 77. There, you will find a chart indicating how the various tubes need to be strapped, or not, in order to be used in Little Dot amps. Also, you will find there a section regarding how to "strap."

 

Note that strapping is done from the top of the amp. Essentially, you will need to find some 26 gauge, or smaller, stranded wire. Again, stranded, not solid, and very thin. Cut two small pieces, and strip the insulation off of each end, such that you can bend both of them into a U shape, somewhat like a staple, and carefully insert them into your sockets., one end in pin-hole 1 and the other end in pin-hole 7 (for heptodes). And then, carefully insert your tubes into the sockets. Thus, pin 1 and pin 7 are said to be "strapped in the socket".


Edited by gibosi - 7/13/13 at 10:01pm
post #1914 of 7199
Is 1967 a good year for TS 6485/6AH6WA?
post #1915 of 7199
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaywillin View Post

ok, i do need some help, my little dot, doesn't look like the one on the little dot website(the pic with the bottom opened up)
also, i'm gonna take a wild guess and say that the wires connecting to two tube sockets is strapping ?
i guess my question, is what are we looking at here ?? what tubes is the amp set up for ?? i hope the pics are good enough for someone to tell ,thanks










Those are heater wires you see between the tube sockets, nothing to do with strapping. You'll want to follow gibosi's suggestions about that.

And yes, people, forget about the silly 6ak5 tubes... There are many other better and cheaper tubes out there, seriously...
post #1916 of 7199
Quote:
Originally Posted by siles1991 View Post

Is 1967 a good year for TS 6485/6AH6WA?

In my experience, the most important thing to look for in the TS 6485 is O-getters. 1967 TS 6485s should have O-getters, so these tubes should be fine. 

post #1917 of 7199

In looking at the MKIV this morning it appears I have the electro-harmonix 6H30PiEH power tubes, I thought those were only for the SE model? They must sub the Pi's in when they run out of the 6H30EB's.

 

The Driver tubes have 5654 and USA on them with an 3x3 arrangement of etched dots near the bottom. There is remnants of green text on the tube but most of it seems rubbed off. Would these drivers be the GE 5654's or are they subbed out as well?

 

Since the power tubes are quite a bit more expensive than the drivers, should an extra pair of those be picked up as well?

 

Thanks!

post #1918 of 7199
Quote:
Originally Posted by MIKELAP View Post



Got these today look to be Electronorgtecnika 6a2p. 

The symbol of the Oktyabr factory again on the tube and also on the box. ELORG was just a Soviet import export house.
post #1919 of 7199
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrollDragon View Post

In looking at the MKIV this morning it appears I have the electro-harmonix 6H30PiEH power tubes, I thought those were only for the SE model? They must sub the Pi's in when they run out of the 6H30EB's.

 

The Driver tubes have 5654 and USA on them with an 3x3 arrangement of etched dots near the bottom. There is remnants of green text on the tube but most of it seems rubbed off. Would these drivers be the GE 5654's or are they subbed out as well?

 

Since the power tubes are quite a bit more expensive than the drivers, should an extra pair of those be picked up as well?

 

Thanks!

 

As I have the 1+, others will have to address your power tube questions. But yes, the etched dots clearly indicate that your driver tubes are GE.

post #1920 of 7199
Quote:
Originally Posted by gibosi View Post

 

As I have the 1+, others will have to address your power tube questions. But yes, the etched dots clearly indicate that your driver tubes are GE.

Thanks gibosi!

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