Head-Fi.org › Forums › Misc.-Category Forums › DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Discussions › Replacing/ removing tweater from a cabinet
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Replacing/ removing tweater from a cabinet - Page 2

post #16 of 24
Thread Starter 

I've tested the crossover and it works. All I know is that the tweeter isn't working, and there was no distinctive "failure" that I recall. I do know my idiot friends would leave their ipod's volume low, and crank my amp up to the max... It would say on the screen "Warning" and I'd mob over and turn it down.

 

 

Anyway, I'm just curious on the construction of the Tweeter. Is it simply a magnet, with the voice coil/dome? If I buy this replacement voice coil, will it work? I ask because it's going to be a pain to replace the voice coil. 

 

Thanks

 

PS the tweeter makes NO sound, I'm passed the testing phase. 

post #17 of 24

What kind of speakers are those? They look nice. 

 

Clipping "fools" the crossovers into letting a lot of low-frequency signal through which destroys tweeters in an instant. 

 

Your description of the construction of a tweeter is pretty much spot on. But you generally cant actually fix a tweeter yourself. Just buy new ones. (see edit)

 

I would suggest replacing both tweeters at the same time to keep them matched properly. 

 

Edit:

If you can buy new domes with the voice coils installed they just plop in. Id still do both channels at the same time. 


Edited by nikongod - 7/24/11 at 3:05pm
post #18 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nikongod View Post

What kind of speakers are those? They look nice. 

 

Clipping "fools" the crossovers into letting a lot of low-frequency signal through which destroys tweeters in an instant. 

 

Your description of the construction of a tweeter is pretty much spot on. But you generally cant actually fix a tweeter yourself. Just buy new ones. (see edit)

 

I would suggest replacing both tweeters at the same time to keep them matched properly. 

 

Edit:

If you can buy new domes with the voice coils installed they just plop in. Id still do both channels at the same time. 


My dad bought the speakers in 1990 from a research group called ORO speakers if I recall correctly. It's pretty much impossible to find information about them other than the brochure I have, because they stopped production before the internet boom. Overall they have great sound and quality construction though. 

 

I saw your suggestion as well as others about replacing both voice coils at the same time to keep them matched, but with the troubles I had removing the tweeter, I don't know if it is worth it. 

 

Thanks for the help though, I'll check the other speaker to see if it will remove easily. 

 

post #19 of 24
Tough call to a point.

Since new voice coils are only $11USD a piece, you have to ask if you think you can do better for twenty bucks. Pretty much a sonic deal if the rest of the drivers are up to par with the tweeter.

Then again, if the rest of the drivers are on their last legs, then it might not be so straightforward.
post #20 of 24
Thread Starter 

Alright, after a unexpected "vacation" I'm back on this. After some research, and finding Audax's new french website, I found that my HD100 d25 HR aren't quite as similar to the HD100 d25 as I expected. The HR has a 2mm voice coil and gap, compared to the normal at 3mm. This bumps it's efficiency up from 89 dB to 91.5 dB. 

 

With that knowledge, would replacing the voice coil or even the entire tweeter with a 90dB efficiency be very noticeable? 

post #21 of 24
Probably. But that is not necessarily a bad thing. It depends upon the sound of the current configuration and what you think of it. The extra gain may or may not be welcome. In any case, it could be mitigated through a small change to the crossover. Depending upon the filter topology used for the tweeter, it may be as simple as a resistor change.

More important than sensitivity, are the impedances and frequency characteristics similar? Can you retain the same crossover point between the mid driver and the tweeter? Again, all of that can be mitigated through crossover component changes if required. So, it is not necessarily a show stopper by any means. Might even be fun. Depends upon how much work you want to put into the speakers.
post #22 of 24
Thread Starter 

http://www.audax.com/archives/tw025a0.jpg is the new tweeter I can buy, this is mine http://www.audax.com/archives/hd100d25hr.jpg

 

The impediances are the same, the curves look a little different. I'd definitely have to change both tweeters. I'm looking to see if anything is closer

post #23 of 24

At this point, I think you may be better served asking the folks here for assistance, advice and recommendations:

 

   http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/loudspeakers/

 

They are much more oriented to the questions you are asking now that the driver has been liberated.  smile.gif

post #24 of 24
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdkJake View Post

At this point, I think you may be better served asking the folks here for assistance, advice and recommendations:

 

   http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/loudspeakers/

 

They are much more oriented to the questions you are asking now that the driver has been liberated.  smile.gif

 

I ended up going to the source, Audax themselves. They recommended the TW025a0, which is the driver that the voice coil replacement is originally meant for. Finally got it installed. Time for some break in! After some good hours I'll start really testing to see if I need to replace the other one. 
 

 

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
Head-Fi.org › Forums › Misc.-Category Forums › DIY (Do-It-Yourself) Discussions › Replacing/ removing tweater from a cabinet