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Anybody else have a "dead zone" with Neutrik plugs?

post #1 of 18
Thread Starter 

I've noticed on rare occasion you'll get this very small area if you rotate the plug around, that you'll get this "dead zone" where the music will either completely cut out or play at a very faded volume.

 

Anybody else have this issue? This is like the third time it's happened and I even check for it but sometimes it's such a small area that I miss it.

 

I'm considering switching to Paillics for my straight plugs at this point. Apparently the problem can also come up in their 90-degree plugs.

 

Either way, whether if this is Neutrik or my bad, I'm always going to make things right but I'm trying to just get to the bottom of this.

post #2 of 18

I might be having issues with some neutriks too..hard to say... but i'm not sure about whats happening yet either.. sounds like my issue may be a little different than yours...if can you can give some more details i may be able to gain more clarity for both of us.

 

what type of solder are you using

any idea what temperature you are soldering at?

is there any correlation to the gauge of the wire - or what general gauge do you use?

do you use anything to cover the joints with to avoid the possibility of the outside shaft touching them?

 

also have you posted about this before? im asking b/c if you havent i'm pretty sure i saw another post about this..

post #3 of 18

Yeah, it would be nice if there were another ~$1 mini plug option out there, but there really isn't.  

post #4 of 18

 

Neutrik  makes 1/8" straight plugs?

 

se

 

 

post #5 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Eddy View Post

 

Neutrik  makes 1/8" straight plugs?

 

se

 

 



yep - its the little guy 2nd connector from the left sandwhiched between the calrad and the viablue - they are often rebranded as "Rean" - maybe rebranded is not the most accurate word.. anyway neutrik and rean are the same.

 

 photo.JPG

 


Edited by Br777 - 7/9/11 at 9:18pm
post #6 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Br777 View Post

yep - its the little guy 2nd connector from the left sandwhiched between the calrad and the viablue - they are often rebranded as "Rean" - maybe rebranded is not the most accurate word.. anyway neutrik and rean are the same.

 


Ah, ok. I try and keep the two names separate. All Neutrik branded products are made in Lichtenstein, the Reans are made in China.

 

Anyway, not sure why they'd cut out like that. Unless perhaps the ground sleeve isn't quite straight (I'm assuming it's a ground issue because the OP didn't say anything about just one channel being affected).

 

se

 

 

 

post #7 of 18

The "Rean" ones still say Neutrik on them.  The NYS series of plugs is just Neutrik stuff that's made in China.  

post #8 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by scootermafia View Post

The "Rean" ones still say Neutrik on them.



Ah. Well, the guy I spoke to at Neutrik USA a couple of months ago gave me some bad information.

 

se

 

 

post #9 of 18

If Neutrik made a slightly bigger mini plug that was more comparable design wise to their 1/4" plugs, that would be very neat.  I've always wanted Furutech or Cardas to make a mini plug, also.  Sadly, they do not have them yet.  

post #10 of 18

No such experience. Used: NTP3RC-B and that REAN straight one.

post #11 of 18
Thread Starter 

I use Mundorf Supreme solder

I don't know what temperature it is at, but it's not high power for sure, all joints are quick and concise.

I use anything from 28AWG to 24AWG

I don't use anything to cover the joints, but if it were touching, it wouldn't be in the exact same place every time then would it? Plus it's not repairable either, if it was a mistake in craftsmanship, I would be able to correct it by redoing everything, but it's always such a small section of the plug.

 

might switch out to using Zombie-X or having my own custom plugs made for me, it's a little frustrating since I really like the way they look and they're really cost-effective for the quality you get. It's cool, maybe custom plugs are the way to go.


Edited by Chris_Himself - 7/10/11 at 10:05am
post #12 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris_Himself View Post

I use Mundorf Supreme solder

I don't know what temperature it is at, but it's not high power for sure, all joints are quick and concise.

I use anything from 28AWG to 24AWG

I don't use anything to cover the joints, but if it were touching, it wouldn't be in the exact same place every time then would it? Plus it's not repairable either, if it was a mistake in craftsmanship, I would be able to correct it by redoing everything, but it's always such a small section of the plug.

 

might switch out to using Zombie-X or having my own custom plugs made for me, it's a little frustrating since I really like the way they look and they're really cost-effective for the quality you get. It's cool, maybe custom plugs are the way to go.



 

hmmm... well i dont know... its really hard to say whats going on.. it could be so many things... the only thing i can think of is that these jacks may be melting REALLY easily when soldered , even when you solder really quickly.   maybe they are just simply poor quality in that sense. 

 

good luck

 

for what its worth, viablue has just come out with a neutrik sized straight 1/8" jack.. its identical to their previous model only smaller. 

 

http://www.av-outlet.com/index.html?target=dept_470.html&lang=en-us


Edited by Br777 - 7/10/11 at 3:41pm
post #13 of 18

Your particular plug and or jack might be defective, I think.

post #14 of 18

Mundorf Supreme is 10% silver so its melting temperature is much higher than others.  Some stuff will melt before that solder will stick.  Cardas Quad Eutectic is the easiest to melt, while I like the way the Mundorf performs, I only break it out for special occasions.  How many Neutrik plugs have done this?  

 

Edit: nice find on the new small Viablue plugs.  Those could solve a lot of problems.  


Edited by scootermafia - 7/10/11 at 4:44pm
post #15 of 18

OP, regulary how much wire do you free or peel from the cable?

 

what you describe might be the + and - wires touching each other inside the conector, and if they dont have the protective plastic cover on them, they sound would cut off like that.

 

just a shot in the dark

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