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TEAC UD-H01 USB DAC - Page 16

post #226 of 357
Originally Posted by moofied View Post


I have the TEAC NP-H750 which uses the same chip and drivers and I had the same screen saver/sleep issue in Windows. I had to disable the "HID-compliant consumer control device" that is installed along with the audio device. It's easy to find if you select the TEAC audio device and then go to View->Devices by connection.


Edit: This is all done in the Device Manager

How is TEAC NP-H750 sounding?

post #227 of 357



How do you modify the power supply jumper from 120v 60hz to 230v 50hz?

Can anyone explain to me with photo? Thank you.


I plan to order one from amazon and I'm living in a country with UK plug and power voltage. 

post #228 of 357

My US spec UD-H01 does not have a wall power changing jumper that I know of:



post #229 of 357

Oh, thats mean i need a power transformer brick....

post #230 of 357

Some questions...


Can I use this cable to convert the RCA output for better quality headphone output ?







I check teac website states that H01 is 13 W power. This voltage transformer on Amazon is design for travel purpose but it can be continuously used under 100w ...should be safe for long term using with h01 ?



post #231 of 357

Can't you buy one from europe? Actually you don't need any power bricks or anything, Do you see those yellow blue brown white cables on the left? termnitated in h\whit connectors? and that little white cable next to pcb main text on the PCB, you need to switch those around, it has the designations, so when you oepn the device you'll see which ones you have to plug where.. good luck

post #232 of 357
Originally Posted by ZenocideZ View Post



How do you modify the power supply jumper from 120v 60hz to 230v 50hz?

Can anyone explain to me with photo? Thank you.


I plan to order one from amazon and I'm living in a country with UK plug and power voltage. 

I bought it England, but live in Turkey so have europlugs which are different than UK's. I don't need a power brick or anything like that though, just use a simple adapter, this:


post #233 of 357

No you can not use those cables to convert RCA to headphone output. Where did you get that idea? :D There's a headphone out that matches headphone requirements that's it, RCA out is completely different thing, it's a line out to plug into other devices, end of story.

post #234 of 357

Thanks for everyone helps!


I am located in Asia, and my local dealer r still selling UD-H01 around USD 400.

Well, my local store bundle a free PSB LS1 speaker with NAD D3020...so I go with that.....

post #235 of 357

I recently bought the UD-H01 and a pair of JBL LSR305, and am quite impressed with the combo.The clarity and imaging are outstanding, totally meet my expectation. I use balanced out.

Now one thing that puzzles me is the output priority of the UD-H01. I was under the impression that the headphone output would have the priority, i.e. when I plug in the headphone, it will mute the line out. But it's not. I have to power off my speakers in order to get any signal from the phone output. Is it supposed to be like this?

post #236 of 357
Yeah that's just the way it is
post #237 of 357
Originally Posted by Joong View Post

How is TEAC NP-H750 sounding?


I use it for 2.1 channel stereo listening mostly. It sounds very good hooked up to pair of KEF iQ30 speakers. As far as the headphone output goes, it's nothing spectacular, and I've heard better from dedicated headphone amps. I'm going to look into hooking up the AUX output to a headphone amp to use it as a DAC only for headphone listening.

post #238 of 357

Mine's connected to a Schidt Mjolnir and it sounds superb. It's a very good DAC with a mediocre headphone amp.

post #239 of 357

Followings were posted in other threads, and I do not know how to link without repeating here.


Teac NPH750 has been arrived, and burning-in process has been going on. I listen to it through He-6 connected to speaker taps. Out of the box, I can say that SQ is better than AH-01, it sounds fuller. With stock power cable the sound is not grainy. The amplifier section seems CLASS A, because the section was untouchably hot after 10 minutes of use. There are treble and bass control by remote control. The level control seems linear especially in Bass side. And it can tame He-6 with it. The DAC section is pretty good. Even though spec declares not impressive number like SN ratio of 85 dB and THD of 0.5%, but I do not believe the spec of the manufacturers in general. The important matters are inter-relations of the components, in these regards Teac NPH750 performs well unexpectedly. Teac declares the spec honestly, but they should declare the unit operating class A amplifier that headfiers are looking after. Everybody goes after very low THD and current mode driven amplifier for He-6. The consequence is very expensive amplifier to drive He-6. I think this unit can drive other high impedance headphones well. Noise floor is lower than Emotiva mini-X A100, with which my HE-6 sounds shrill and bright. This fact is very important, when high percentage of Emotiva mini-x For the moment NPH-750 sounds little bit bright. The remote control is well built and useful.


The details are there, and harsh has gone away when I changed from Aux1 input to internal DAC through optical input. This might be due to the elimination of interconnection, or good quality design around DAC chip PCM1975. USB connection requires some additional work of installing from Teac site for Windows 7 64 bit machine. The installing was flawless, and after that all is ok and sounds as the same sound signature as of optical connection. Head time is more with Teac NPH750 + He-6, than Conductor + LCD2.2. Temporarily Conductor has been decommissioned in favor of Teac NPH750. However it is not saying that Conductor is inferior, but it provides convenience of remote controlling with subtle difference of sound quality. It has very low noise floor as well. In Comparison with PM6005 of Marantz, I could not find specific fault so that I decided to stay with Teac H750 for the moment. Next thing is to replace the stock power cable with some low-priced Gaofei power cable to see some improvement.

Shown above is analog amplifier section in discrete components with large heat sink.

Edited by Joong - 4/17/14 at 7:24pm
post #240 of 357

I hope you got the NP-H750 at a good price.... I just got this in my inbox....

Almost lost it in the Conference Room... I think they even dropped $200 off of the CD Deck as well...





Still Trying to burn mine in along with everything else..... but I digress....


Been trying to get the UD-H01 to get past 24/96 with J River but no dice. I can get her to up the ante with the Teac HR Audio Player though.:blink:


The NP-H750 has no issues whatsoever communicating with J River(19).



I figured the UD-H01 would be the best fit with her dual Burr Browns to go along with some Schiit!!!! ( I see you robrob)



I heard some chatter 'bout the drivers so I downloaded the nippon drivers but has anyone gone down that road yet?????

I might try and install them over the weekend... 

But then again there's the Barcelona F1 Race this weekend....Hmmmmmm.....


- Peace :L3000:

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