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SR60-Mod part II - Page 6

post #76 of 3331
Quote:
Originally Posted by xaval View Post

Conspiracy, I say very_evil_smiley.gif



Offtopic, but how do you like your Grados compared to your Lambda?

post #77 of 3331

lets burn the infidel!! I've got your point Ish!

 

also, why is this thread called SR60 again? everybody post any grado anyway, even alessandros.

post #78 of 3331

I removed the screens I had in my 225's to get a more open sound. So to sort of complete the old school look I modded a couple of skull beads to use as rod toppers and this is the look. Now I just need a leather head band.

 

oakwood 007.JPG

post #79 of 3331
Quote:
Originally Posted by KneelJung View Post

I removed the screens I had in my 225's to get a more open sound. So to sort of complete the old school look I modded a couple of skull beads to use as rod toppers and this is the look. Now I just need a leather head band.

 

oakwood 007.JPG


Who made those cups for you? Are they stained? They're so dark....

Kojaku
post #80 of 3331
Quote:
Originally Posted by schwallman View Post

To be honest, it doesnt seem like alot of info to grab.

 

1. open cups - explain.

2. poke holes - explain

3. dynamat, felt - explain

4. liberate - explain

5. wood cups - explain.

 



 


and to be honest the only difficult thing, I imagine, would be liberating the driver. I've yet to do so and will get woodied insides.....

 

 

someday...someday.

 

post #81 of 3331
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kojaku View Post



Who made those cups for you? Are they stained? They're so dark....

Kojaku


It's African Blackwood Kojaku. I finished them with tung oil so the color of the wood is natural. A local guy turned them for me and did a great job. I netted 3 pairs out of the chunk of Blackwood I gave him to work with, one of which I sold after one of the drivers in my SR60 bit the dust. One of the cups in the other pair cracked and that's the pair I want to incorporate some carbon fiber with. Which if someone could help me source that would be great.

post #82 of 3331
Quote:
Originally Posted by Melvins View Post

and to be honest the only difficult thing, I imagine, would be liberating the driver. I've yet to do so and will get woodied insides.....

 

 

someday...someday.

 


In the old thread, I documented a simple process for taking care of this process.  Place the driver housing down on a piece of towel on your work bench.  Using a 1 1/4" socket (that's been cleaned) over the top of the driver.  Whack it about 5 times with a rubber mallet.  Done!

 

post #83 of 3331
Quote:
Originally Posted by KneelJung View Post

I removed the screens I had in my 225's to get a more open sound. So to sort of complete the old school look I modded a couple of skull beads to use as rod toppers and this is the look. Now I just need a leather head band.

 

oakwood 007.JPG



lol, i like the skulls..wanna call it..skullcandy?

post #84 of 3331
Quote:
Originally Posted by wildcat46734 View Post

What is the process to make the Grado SR80i's balanced? I thought all you had to do was reterminate the plug and change from a normal 3.5mm plug to either a 4 pin XLR plug or two 3 pin XLR plugs. And then to transplant that wouldnt you have to cut it off of your SR80is and splice it into your new headphones thus ruining your SR80i.


You open up the cup and desolder the whole cable. You could simply swap around the two pairs of cable.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by KneelJung View Post

 

It's African Blackwood Kojaku. I finished them with tung oil so the color of the wood is natural. A local guy turned them for me and did a great job. I netted 3 pairs out of the chunk of Blackwood I gave him to work with, one of which I sold after one of the drivers in my SR60 bit the dust. One of the cups in the other pair cracked and that's the pair I want to incorporate some carbon fiber with. Which if someone could help me source that would be great.

Hmm, roughly how much did it cost to get the cups turned? I'm thinking of sourcing out local machinists/carpenters for further experiments but am trying to get a good estimate of cost before doing so.

 

Also, I think the mods might have misconstrued Cabillas' posting of his cups on this thread as advertising, although I was more under the impression that he was operating a sort of group-buy system through himself for the cost of the wood and carpentry rather than marketing them for profit. And I think Curra stated that the thread wouldn't be deleted, iirc.

post #85 of 3331
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post




In the old thread, I documented a simple process for taking care of this process.  Place the driver housing down on a piece of towel on your work bench.  Using a 1 1/4" socket (that's been cleaned) over the top of the driver.  Whack it about 5 times with a rubber mallet.  Done!

 


This seems like a really easy way to damage a driver xS

Kojaku
post #86 of 3331
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kojaku View Post

This seems like a really easy way to damage a driver xS

Kojaku


No.  It's actually a beautiful and flawless way to handle the process.  Simple stuff.

 

post #87 of 3331
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightslayer View Post

 

Hmm, roughly how much did it cost to get the cups turned? I'm thinking of sourcing out local machinists/carpenters for further experiments but am trying to get a good estimate of cost before doing so.

 

I donated $200 to the wood shop that turned them for me. I live in a retirement community and it has a community wood shop for wood working hobbyists that takes on special projects. They dont really quote you a price they tell you how many hours they spent on your project and you donate what you think is fair. They spent 17 hours. The first 4 hours I know was spent making some proto types and fabricating something to turn them. After I Ok'ed the proto types they turned the Blackwood and fabricated some Mahogany driver housings for me. I'm pretty happy with them but if I knew about Marty before I started the project I probably would have went that route. I think I'm going to end up joining the wood shop and learning how to turn some wood.

 

post #88 of 3331
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post




No.  It's actually a beautiful and flawless way to handle the process.  Simple stuff.

 


You're saying perforated side up?

Kojaku
post #89 of 3331



Watching people use a lathe and even videos on youtube, it doesn't seem extremely difficult. I'm sure it takes some practice but with the right tools and a little time you could probably be decent in a few days to a week of practice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KneelJung View Post



 

I donated $200 to the wood shop that turned them for me. I live in a retirement community and it has a community wood shop for wood working hobbyists that takes on special projects. They dont really quote you a price they tell you how many hours they spent on your project and you donate what you think is fair. They spent 17 hours. The first 4 hours I know was spent making some proto types and fabricating something to turn them. After I Ok'ed the proto types they turned the Blackwood and fabricated some Mahogany driver housings for me. I'm pretty happy with them but if I knew about Marty before I started the project I probably would have went that route. I think I'm going to end up joining the wood shop and learning how to turn some wood.

 



 

post #90 of 3331
Quote:
Originally Posted by xaval View Post




You quoted it :p

 

 


 

Good point.. 

 



Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkz View Post

As much as I hate to admit it to myself, the other thread needed to be closed. There are at least two, maybe more members in my mind who really need to be MOTs based on the number of products of theirs I have seen popping up. Hopefully the whole thread won't be deleted, I feel it would be possible to edit out offending posts, because there is so much great information in there.

 

At the very least, we get a clean slate to begin with on this thread and hopefully the innovation and creativity that was so prevalent in the other thread will continue across to here.

 

I have some wood that I still need to get cut, especially because I haven't seen anyone else with cups from. Now that I have a working pair of Grados again, I have more motivation.

 

Something else I have been thinking about, does anyone else here use flat pads? I only ask because I really like mine (more than bowls, comfies, or quarter modded comfies) and was thinking of making another pair that could be shipped around as a trial to others to see if they enjoy this pad style. You can still get TTVJ flats, but they are expensive and modded Senn pads are cheaper and will likely get you most of the way there. I have no intention of selling them, but maybe others can benefit from listening to them or using them as a template to make their own. If anyone has any thoughts on this, let me know.


 

 

I'd be interested to see what your "flats" look like
 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jreme View Post

I'm getting either the 60i or 80i soon. I don't really want to open up the shell, so what mods can I do on it without playing Operation? Also can someone post how each mod changes the sq?


remove the cloth on the outside of the driver (just kind of lets more detail through). quarter mod the pads.. (once again just lets more sound through, all over upgrade). I think that is about all you can do. I'd highly suggest a pair of bowls.

 



Quote:
Originally Posted by schwallman View Post





 I still use and love my flats. You cant cheap out on flats. Just get them from Todd and move on. The senn pads are nowhere near the same as true flats.


hmmm. you've got me curious. How do they sound compared to bowls? How far do your ears sit away from the drivers? do you think the foam does much to the sound and that is why flats are different?

 



Quote:
Originally Posted by Kojaku View Post

I've got a lot of free time this weekend. Imma see if I can at least begin picking through the 334 pages of stuff and save all the mod related stuff. Maybe make a wiki page on Wikiphonia.

Kojaku

Sweet, if you start it i'm sure i could help edit and whatnot.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Saintkeat View Post



 

A bit more actually.

 

6. Recabling

7. Detachable stereo/mono

8. Headband and Rod Blocks

9. Mesh

10. Metal Cups

11. Carbon Fiber Cups

12. Different types of Foams (think theres a link to an article somewhere which had side by side comparisons)

13. Rod Locks

14. Gimbals


 

 

Pads should be first and foremost, maybe right behind removing the driver cloth :)
 

 



Quote:
Originally Posted by LepakVT View Post

Just switched from the adhesive felt stickers to some of the HandiTak and I think the difference is pretty noticeable immediately. The bass especially has more force and cymbals sound better.


now you have to try dynamat :)

 



Quote:
Originally Posted by KneelJung View Post

I removed the screens I had in my 225's to get a more open sound. So to sort of complete the old school look I modded a couple of skull beads to use as rod toppers and this is the look. Now I just need a leather head band.



 

They look awesome!

 

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