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SR60-Mod part II - Page 222

post #3316 of 3331
Quote:
Originally Posted by stjj89 View Post
 

 

Actually, I use the metric system too! I just live in the US now so I'm just putting up with the measurement system here (that my woodshop uses) =)

 

So for a tight friction fit, would you say it would be best to just measure the outer diameter of the driver, cut out holes that are exactly that size, and sand it until the drivers fit? I've been drilling the center of my cup on a drill press using two circular drill tips: 1 7/8 inches 1/4 inch in, and 1 3/4 inches the rest of the way through. I can't get any more granularity than that using the drill tips available, and these measurements currently don't give me a tight friction fit. The CNC machine will probably offer more precision, so I'm planning to use the exact measured OD of the drivers for these holes when I make them on the CNC machine.

You don't necessary need a friction fit, as you could just find some material to interface between the drivers and the cups. Especially since you've already finished a pair. For your new designs tho, I would definitely go for what you mentioned: approx. 46mm ID of the cups and carefully sand the inside until you feel that the driver can be pressure fit comfortably (remember that the wood will shrink and expand depending on temperature and humidity if the wood is unfinished. This can translate into cracking cups if they're too tight). I usually also round the sharp edges of the glue residue by carefully sanding the drivers by hand.

Notice how the driver OD is approx. 46mm and +-6,5mm high. The next portion has an OD of approx. 44mm and +-3mm high. This usually means that you need at least a 10mm deep slot, of course depending on the ID of the cups.

post #3317 of 3331

for the cup design I had made, the wood turner and I agreed to leave a little leeway because of the expansion/contraction mentioned above. I use foam tape to seat the drivers securely.

 

Opinions differ on how this affects sound. Some say it is a negative thing (the driver is isolated from the wood and its sound is no longer colored by it), others say its fine. I fall into the latter category. I have found the tape actually provides a better sound and the fit is secure with no potential rattling/movement.

post #3318 of 3331

Latest and best iteration of my wood cups--Cocobolo:

 

 

 

Still waiting on the grills, but I'm very happy with them so far!

post #3319 of 3331
Beautifully done...
post #3320 of 3331
Quote:
Originally Posted by arbiche View Post




 

 

Each time I see this pictures, I think of them as the nunchuks of the Grado world.   Nicely done.

post #3321 of 3331
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post
 

 

Each time I see this pictures, I think of them as the nunchuks of the Grado world.   Nicely done.

Thanks... and LOL

post #3322 of 3331

Does anyone around have a spare SR60i driver around? Doesn't matter if it is modded.

 

Managed to break one with crappy soldering when changing the cable. Too much heat applied, oh well.

 

It'd cost way too much to send the cans to Grado for service.

 

Willing to pay for the driver + shipping via PayPal if you have a bit of posting history.

 

*fingers crossed*

post #3323 of 3331

I think you could use px100ii drivers, that could be quite a interesting experience (look at the Non grado drivers thread).

post #3324 of 3331
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rauliki View Post
 

I think you could use px100ii drivers, that could be quite a interesting experience (look at the Non grado drivers thread).

does anyone have any experience with comparing these to any of the prestige series here? The px100ii driver i mean 

post #3325 of 3331

They have some ok, ppl sold their headphones because combination with wood cups is very nice.

post #3326 of 3331

Oh darn, it looks like I busted my Grado cables while putting them into my wood cups! I'm a total newbie with a wire mod, but would anyone be willing to help me make a custom cable using a Mogami W2893 (something like http://www.overclock.net/t/631938/a-pic-by-pic-grado-sr80-recable-thread)? I'll pay for the service, of course.

 

 

Please PM me if anyone would be willing to help! This is urgent as the cans are a gift for a friend, so any help would be greatly appreciated!

post #3327 of 3331

Hey there, I've done a little searching but haven't seen anything come up. Has anyone tried making cups out of mdf? I've seen pvc and the many different wood iterations but not mdf. Seems as though it might be interesting to try  since its generally so tonally neutral in speaker boxes.

post #3328 of 3331
Quote:
Originally Posted by savagetuna View Post
 

Hey there, I've done a little searching but haven't seen anything come up. Has anyone tried making cups out of mdf? I've seen pvc and the many different wood iterations but not mdf. Seems as though it might be interesting to try  since its generally so tonally neutral in speaker boxes.

 

...never seen mdf cups before...would be worth an experiment though I am sure...

post #3329 of 3331
I was thinking about laser cutting rings out of 1/4 inch mdf and stacking them to firm the cup. Could use 123d make to do the stacking for me. There would be a lot of glue though haha.
post #3330 of 3331

I haven't ever glued and combined sheets of wood for cups I have had made/made myself...but I have seen it done...kind-of:

 

http://www.head-fi.org/t/665094/v4-5-magnum-must-see-cups

 

Would be fun to see what the effect is...

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