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SR60-Mod part II - Page 216

post #3226 of 3331
Quote:
Originally Posted by GREQ View Post
 

True - when I tried to take the buttons off my SR60i a few years ago, I ended up having to destroy the plastic 'grills' as they were practically welded with glue to the cups. 

I was happy to replace it with woven steel mesh later, but was surprised at how much glue there was holding the originals down. 

 

mine is so old one was already partially pushed in, just required a screwdriver to pop the other.  no broken plastic.

post #3227 of 3331
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keopele19 View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GREQ View Post
 

True - when I tried to take the buttons off my SR60i a few years ago, I ended up having to destroy the plastic 'grills' as they were practically welded with glue to the cups. 

I was happy to replace it with woven steel mesh later, but was surprised at how much glue there was holding the originals down. 

 

mine is so old one was already partially pushed in, just required a screwdriver to pop the other.  no broken plastic.

 

If it was an old SR60, rather than a newish SR60i, the glue was probably brittle with age. Nothing out of the ordinary there.

post #3228 of 3331

Hey guys,

 

I'm looking to recable my SR60i with silver cables but am a total newbie with dealing with these circuits and connections. I have two questions about this process that I am hoping to get help with:

 

1) Does anyone have an updated tutorial (pictures preferred) on how to recable the SR60i using the four braid silver cable that bilavideo recommended in his original posts?

 

2) Does anyone have recommendations on where to buy affordable silver cables? I'm looking at the selection here http://www.homegrownaudio.com/categories/Braided-Wire/ but I'm not sure which one to buy.

 

I would really appreciate any help I could get here! Thanks!

 

-Sam

post #3229 of 3331
Do you like how you sr60i sounds? If so, why do you want to change the most insignificant part of it? I wouldn't change cable if one I had wasn't broken.
For the price of cables i would rather pay for listening my songs on rs2, rs1 and ps500, then I would know which I prefer and upgrade when I will have a chance.
post #3230 of 3331
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rauliki View Post

Do you like how you sr60i sounds? If so, why do you want to change the most insignificant part of it? I wouldn't change cable if one I had wasn't broken.
For the price of cables i would rather pay for listening my songs on rs2, rs1 and ps500, then I would know which I prefer and upgrade when I will have a chance.

 

I do, but I'd like to push it further if at all possible. My impression from reading bilavideo's original posts is that silver cables actually make a huge difference in audio quality for about 50 USD. Has that not been the case from your experience or what you've heard?

post #3231 of 3331
Quote:
Originally Posted by stjj89 View Post

I do, but I'd like to push it further if at all possible. My impression from reading bilavideo's original posts is that silver cables actually make a huge difference in audio quality for about 50 USD. Has that not been the case from your experience or what you've heard?

For Grado headphones, there's no way I'd use silver cable. Huge difference? It will open up the highs a lot, but not any real improvement in the bass area. Grado doesn't have a need for improved highs in anyway. Stick with copper. Your wallet will be happier.

If you want to work in some form of custom cable for your Grados, go for Mogami or Canare quad (microphone) cable. These cables have 4 conductors made from OFC copper. The performance for the cost really can't be beat.
post #3232 of 3331
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post


For Grado headphones, there's no way I'd use silver cable. Huge difference? It will open up the highs a lot, but not any real improvement in the bass area. Grado doesn't have a need for improved highs in anyway. Stick with copper. Your wallet will be happier.

If you want to work in some form of custom cable for your Grados, go for Mogami or Canare quad (microphone) cable. These cables have 4 conductors made from OFC copper. The performance for the cost really can't be beat.

 

He speaks truth. 

 

It's a great aesthetic thing as well as a really fun project, but I cannot really tell you that it's as cost-effective as moving up to the next level Grado.

 

Both Mogami Gold or Canare Starquad are actually going to be implemented a lot better than a copper wired cable you built for the first time. It's cheap to boot and if you strip it down, it looks funky/cool.

post #3233 of 3331
Quote:
Originally Posted by sharkz View Post
 

They also made me realize something else, how much I miss the light weight and ability to swivel of stock SR-60's. As much as I love my wood cups, I have almost no ability to swivel them, something that is nice. So I need another driver so I can return one of my pairs of SR60's to stock-ish. I know this is asked all the time, but if anyone has a spare driver, let me know. I can than have a "stock" pair with a stock cable and 1/8" connection for portable use and my heavily modded and recabled pair for home amped use.

 

EDIT: Sorry for noob-posting! I'm still not used to this forum :confused_face:

 

I do have a spare oldschool SR-60-driver from 2006. It's well used, and shipping from Norway will probably be expensive-ish. If nothing else turns up and this is what you're looking for, we can figure something out :)


Edited by Corleone - 10/30/13 at 3:16am
post #3234 of 3331
Subbed
post #3235 of 3331

How do people typically stick their liberated drivers inside of the wood cups? It seems that most people use glue, but is there a particular type of glue people use that can be easily removed later on? Would slightly padded double-sided tape work equally well, or would it affect the sound in any way?

post #3236 of 3331
Quote:
Originally Posted by stjj89 View Post
 

How do people typically stick their liberated drivers inside of the wood cups? It seems that most people use glue, but is there a particular type of glue people use that can be easily removed later on? Would slightly padded double-sided tape work equally well, or would it affect the sound in any way?

Don't use anything that isn't a solid fit. A 'loose fit' on something 'padded' will mean that the driver housing is absorbing some of the diaphragm vibrations and damping the sound - therefore reducing the diaphragms efficiency. 

You want the driver to adhere to the cups tightly, so that you preserve all the diaphragm vibrations.

 

I've never fully liberated a driver, so can't comment on the glue. For OUTER cups however, I just use hot glue to stick to the driver housing. 

post #3237 of 3331
Quote:
Originally Posted by GREQ View Post
 

Don't use anything that isn't a solid fit. A 'loose fit' on something 'padded' will mean that the driver housing is absorbing some of the diaphragm vibrations and damping the sound - therefore reducing the diaphragms efficiency. 

You want the driver to adhere to the cups tightly, so that you preserve all the diaphragm vibrations.

 

I've never fully liberated a driver, so can't comment on the glue. For OUTER cups however, I just use hot glue to stick to the driver housing. 

Thanks for the advice! Is there a particular type of glue that you would recommend?

post #3238 of 3331

For the outer cups, hot glue (like this, applied with this) is probably the best simply because you can take the cups back apart if you need to.

 

I would echo the sentiment that I would not glue the drivers in if you can at all avoid it.

post #3239 of 3331
Quote:
Originally Posted by liquidzoo View Post
 

For the outer cups, hot glue (like this, applied with this) is probably the best simply because you can take the cups back apart if you need to.

 

I would echo the sentiment that I would not glue the drivers in if you can at all avoid it.

 

Yes.  That is correct.  Unfortunately, I bought a pair of Cabillas cups that went through a few hands over a 2-year period.  I was actually the first owner of them.  Sadly, when the Magnum v. 3.5 drivers were installed, they were done so with a near-permanent glue.  In extracting the drivers, one of mine suffered damage and the solder tab was ripped off.  I can't find a spare v. 3.5 anywhere to get a complete pair at this time. :mad:

post #3240 of 3331
Quote:
Originally Posted by wje View Post
 

 

Yes.  That is correct.  Unfortunately, I bought a pair of Cabillas cups that went through a few hands over a 2-year period.  I was actually the first owner of them.  Sadly, when the Magnum v. 3.5 drivers were installed, they were done so with a near-permanent glue.  In extracting the drivers, one of mine suffered damage and the solder tab was ripped off.  I can't find a spare v. 3.5 anywhere to get a complete pair at this time. :mad:

 

Ah, so the best way to install a liberated driver into a full wood body is to make sure that the wood body is cut out just right so that the driver can fit tight with only friction?

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