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Upgrading DAC, amp, sw or hw EQ, & hardware volume knob

post #1 of 10
Thread Starter 

Here's my current set-up:

Realtek HD onboard S/PDIF output -> Logitech Z5500 receiver headphone output -> Headphones

 

I do not wish to change my headphones (MDR-V600) at the moment; they were free, they are very comfortable, and with some EQing, I'm confident they will suffice for now. I would like to upgrade the rest of the system. Requirements

  1. Improve sound quality

  2. A functional 10-band graphic EQ (software or hardware, I don't care) that works across all programs, not just a media player plug-in

  3. A hardware volume knob

  4. If you suggest an onboard sound card, it must be PCI-E x1 (the only slot I have available)

  5. Must drive headphones of at least 150 ohms

  6. Cost < 300 USD (I don't think I have the hearing fidelity to justify more)

 

I know to only lower the levels on the EQ to adjust the sound, not to raise the levels. That said, my realtek software 10-band graphic equalizer causes dynamic volume levels wherein all the surrounding frequencies become quieter whenever an adjusted frequency plays. This is understandably annoying. A must for this project is a functional 10-band graphic equalizer - I'm not opposed to a parametric EQ, but a 10-band graphic would suffice. The EQ plug-in in my media player can make my headphones sound much better, but I want an EQ than can be applied across all programs.

 

I would like a hardware volume knob as I regularly change the volume and I do not like the possibility of a software bug or crash causing a software volume control to send 100% volume to my ears.

 

Possiblities:

  • Onboard S/PDIF output + external DAC & amp
  • Onboard sound card + external amp
  • USB sound card
  • et cetera

 

What combination of parts do you suggest?

 

Thanks,

Dan


Edited by dan7532 - 6/21/11 at 5:08pm
post #2 of 10

Think you can shoot for the Styleaudio Carat-Ruby2, Matrix Cube, Audinst MX1, Maverick D1, or Audio-gd Sparrow?

Look into impressions on each and see which appeals to you most and try it out.  There may be some other amp/DACs around at that price point, so search around.

post #3 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Max View Post

Think you can shoot for the Styleaudio Carat-Ruby2, Matrix Cube, Audinst MX1, Maverick D1, or Audio-gd Sparrow?

Look into impressions on each and see which appeals to you most and try it out.  There may be some other amp/DACs around at that price point, so search around.



Thank you for responding. Yes, a desktop DAC/Amp is my preferred method, I only brought up on-board sound cards because come come packaged with a non-program-specific software EQ, which is obviously much less expensive than purchasing a hardware EQ. I suppose a hardware EQ would be a better long-term investment though, since it is not tied to operating system or PCI-slot variations. The more I consider this, the more I'm leaning towards going with one of the desktop DAC/amps you mentioned and also purchasing a hardware EQ.

post #4 of 10

I have not tried hardware EQs, but I find that software equalizers tend to screw up the soundstage and veil the treble.  Some also kill detail and overall fidelity, most noticeably in the midrange, and that's without any attenuation going on.  No thanks.  Hardware equalization is probably the way to go, I guess.

post #5 of 10
Thread Starter 

From my reading, it seems that the following is a high-quality set-up that would meet my desires for decades to come. I shall save for quite a while and maybe make this kit my reality.

 

Motherboard's optical out -> 

Behringer DEQ2496 DAC & EQ -> 

Matrix m stage Headphone Amplifier ->

Headphones (via the headphone out) & buttkicker (via the pre-out)

post #6 of 10

The M-Stage is badass, but stinks at keeping its cool for very long.  =\

post #7 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Max View Post

The M-Stage is badass, but stinks at keeping its cool for very long.  =\


Does it just get hot, or does it overheat?

 

post #8 of 10

It seems like it will overheat if you leave it on long enough.  I can turn on my ceiling fan to keep it from heating up too much since I have it in a wide open spot, but only with closed headphones.  With open headphones I have to turn it off and let it cool after a a little less than two albums, more or less.

post #9 of 10
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Max View Post

It seems like it will overheat if you leave it on long enough.  I can turn on my ceiling fan to keep it from heating up too much since I have it in a wide open spot, but only with closed headphones.  With open headphones I have to turn it off and let it cool after a a little less than two albums, more or less.

 

Thanks for the heads-up. That's troubling, as I like to use my headphones for long stretches at a time while I'm at my PC with closed headphones, though not necessarily with audio playing the whole time (not sure if that affects the temp). Why would open headphones cause more heat?

Edited by dan7532 - 6/26/11 at 6:06am
post #10 of 10

Not that they cause more heat, but you don't want to have a ceiling fan on with open headphones.  The air can blow driver heat back into itself and you risk damaging your headphones.

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