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E10, new USB DAC ( updated with photos of real E10 ) - Page 34

post #496 of 539

Hey guys! 

 

I ve been browsing the forum for a while now but never posted cause I always found the informations I needed to take decisions, great forum!

 

I have the E10 too, the first batch I think since I got it as soon as it came out. Great product for the price, I dont have the jack issue that is described a few pages before but an other one. When I hit pause button after playing some songs through Itunes, I dont hear any noise. Until now that s normal but 10 sec later I start earing a crackling noise in the left ear, nothing on the right ear. It gets softer when I turned the E10 volume button down but still noticeable. It sort of bothers me since I m not constantly playing music but like keeping headphones on... 

 

Does someone have this issue too? What could it be? I m relatively new to the hi-fi equipment field and I dunno every subtilities of DAC/Amps. Please give me some indications

 

by the way sorry for my average english, I m from France.

post #497 of 539

Does it happen with other players?

post #498 of 539

Yes it happens even without any players running on the computer. The crackling is louder on high gain than on low gain. I can't hear it while playing music though

post #499 of 539

Try another USB jack or computer. It might be defective, but it's strange that it only happens 10 seconds after you press pause. What about before playing any music?

post #500 of 539

I switched usb and there is no improvment, it also does it before playing music.

 

I m not sure how to explain it but right after the music, the DAC feels "ready" to receive a signal. There is this little background wind typical of an audio system turned on. But after a couple of seconds, it feels like the DAC realises there is no more signals coming and some part inside shuts off and the background wind dissapear, replaced by the crackling noise in the left ear. Does that make sens?

 

That's not normal right..? thanks for you help


Edited by Tocksheen - 1/4/12 at 3:28pm
post #501 of 539

I'm trying to open my E10. The back cover comes off easily (4 screws), but the front cover and the volume knob seem to be glued. I've seen pictures of opened E10s without any damage, so how do you do it?

 

The LED is too bright for me and I would like to replace the bass boost with a crossfeed circuit, or at least reduce the corner frequency.

 

post #502 of 539
Quote:
Originally Posted by netexzess View Post

I'm trying to open my E10. The back cover comes off easily (4 screws), but the front cover and the volume knob seem to be glued. I've seen pictures of opened E10s without any damage, so how do you do it?

 

The LED is too bright for me and I would like to replace the bass boost with a crossfeed circuit, or at least reduce the corner frequency.


I recall there being at least one screw on the inside of the faceplate, accessable with a thin screwdriver. I decided agains attempting to remove it because I there seemed to be glue as well and I wasn't confident in my ability to replace the screw.

 

I suppose that you could possibly fit a resistor in series with the LED to lower its intensity with steady hands, but I'm curious as to how you intend to insert a crossfeed into a mostly SMD circuit board. Even replacing a couple of resistors would be a huge pain, let alone the fact that to fit one in you'd probably be needing to recase the whole thing anyway.

post #503 of 539
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoetheArachnid View Post


I recall there being at least one screw on the inside of the faceplate, accessable with a thin screwdriver. I decided agains attempting to remove it because I there seemed to be glue as well and I wasn't confident in my ability to replace the screw.

 

I suppose that you could possibly fit a resistor in series with the LED to lower its intensity with steady hands, but I'm curious as to how you intend to insert a crossfeed into a mostly SMD circuit board. Even replacing a couple of resistors would be a huge pain, let alone the fact that to fit one in you'd probably be needing to recase the whole thing anyway.


I'm an electronics design engineer, thus I don't worry about replacing the LED resistor or adding 2 square-centimeters of PCB along with four wires. I do this kind of stuff every day. I just don't want to ruin the case (which is really nice) and I don't get the trick how to open it without damage.

 

post #504 of 539
Quote:
Originally Posted by netexzess View Post


I'm an electronics design engineer, thus I don't worry about replacing the LED resistor or adding 2 square-centimeters of PCB along with four wires. I do this kind of stuff every day. I just don't want to ruin the case (which is really nice) and I don't get the trick how to open it without damage.

 



Is there a way to remove small SM components? In your experience...

post #505 of 539

Knob was sitting very tightly in my E10 too, but came off with a harder pull. No glue.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by netexzess View Post
front cover and the volume knob seem to be glued


 

post #506 of 539


Cut a piece of transparent plastic-film or something and glue on to the LED from the outside :)

 

When I opened min, two of the screws didn't really fit when I reassembled it. It's not meant to be opened up. But hey - crossfeed would be nice :)

Quote:
Originally Posted by netexzess View Post

 

The LED is too bright for me and I would like to replace the bass boost with a crossfeed circuit, or at least reduce the corner frequency.

 



 

post #507 of 539


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by UnityIsPower View Post


Is there a way to remove small SM components? In your experience...


Well, what is small, in your experience? The E10 has most passives in 0603 size and a smallest pitch of 0.5mm (TE7022L). Regarding prototypes and DIY stuff, that's rather easy to solder and desolder (a little bit harder for the IC) if you have the right tools. These are: fine tweezers, thin solder wire containing lead (e.g. Sn60Pb40, 0.5mm), thin solder wick (<= 0.8mm), soldering iron set somewhere between 300ºC and 400ºC with 1mm to 1.5mm tip. However, it's much harder if you need to do this at a production or rework quality level.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by active View Post

Knob was sitting very tightly in my E10 too, but came off with a harder pull. No glue.


 

That was a helpful hint. I levered off the volume knob using a screwdriver and then pushed the PCB through the case out of the back opening without removing the front plate at all. So far for the tricky part, now comes the easy stuff:

 

I increased the LED resistor R96 from 470R to 1k5, it's much darker and nicer now. At the moment I'm working on drawing the schematic and trying to find an easy way to add a crossfeed to the analog circuitry. I want it to attach it to the bass boost switch, removing the bass boost feature. If that does not work out, I'm going to increase the bass boost caps C72 and C63 from 47n to 100n or 150n, shifting it to a lower frequency. This should remove some "warmness" from the bass boss setting and thus make it more bearable.

 

 

post #508 of 539
Quote:
Originally Posted by netexzess View Post

I increased the LED resistor R96 from 470R to 1k5, it's much darker and nicer now. At the moment I'm working on drawing the schematic and trying to find an easy way to add a crossfeed to the analog circuitry. I want it to attach it to the bass boost switch, removing the bass boost feature. If that does not work out, I'm going to increase the bass boost caps C72 and C63 from 47n to 100n or 150n, shifting it to a lower frequency. This should remove some "warmness" from the bass boss setting and thus make it more bearable.

 


I'm sorry I ever doubted you. Would be interesting to see some pictures of the crossfeed in place if you do manage to fit it.

post #509 of 539

Very very happy with this unit, though I have a little problem with it...

 

everytime I go to the sound properties and changed the max output to 24/96, my PC just crashed, and even restart won't help, it won't load windows, until I unplug the E10 and changed USB port.

 

Anyone knows why?

post #510 of 539

Reinstalling Windows usually solves the problem. Driver clashes probably.

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