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post #61 of 110

My K701s should have about 20,000 hours on them...

I am a heavy user who bought them from a Heavy-Heavy user who told me he used them a LOT!  hhahahhahahhahahah

 

Just wondered if anyone would have a pair of spare Fostex Cup "holders".... those little plastic parts what hold the cup to the headband that have two pins on them, that prevent the cup from rotating...

Or even know where I can buy some...

Mine have broken... (Heavy user, huh)

 

post #62 of 110
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Max View Post

I don't have to change volume between the Fostex or SR325is on any piece of equipment to get the same listening volume with either, precisely as I expected.

Perhaps yours is making poor contact in the jack where the detachable cable connects to the left cup?



Nope, I've taken the cable in and out.

 

Ok, tossed SR80i to the couch and switched to T50RP

 

Volume is full and there. But, turned up to 25% for sound like my Grado. 40% gets best all over tone, 55% gets best volume curve.

 

Maybe it's my pads, I spaced them two inched thick from the driver and ear. I guess it's this.

post #63 of 110

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by BotByte View Post


Nope, I've taken the cable in and out.

 

Ok, tossed SR80i to the couch and switched to T50RP

 

Volume is full and there. But, turned up to 25% for sound like my Grado. 40% gets best all over tone, 55% gets best volume curve.

 

Maybe it's my pads, I spaced them two inched thick from the driver and ear. I guess it's this.


No wonder.  The only modification I've done to my earpads was Akasa risers for better seal and coat the inner side with several layers of plasti-dip to stiffen it.  The stock pads are too soft and soak up the sound.  Stiffening the inner side makes substantial improvement for closed headphones if the inner side isn't already stiff and smooth.  It affects how the pads channel sound to your ears.  Ultrasone and Beyerdynamic have the best idea, using stiff plastic for the inner side of the earpads from the headphones I've seen (DT880/990, HFI-2400, even Sennheiser's HD6x0).

An interesting side note, HFI-2400's earpads' inner side plastic have grooves on them, like rifling.  It might be interesting to somehow hear what this does to T50RP's sound.


Edited by Mad Max - 8/21/11 at 7:25pm
post #64 of 110
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Max View Post

 


No wonder.  The only modification I've done to my earpads was Akasa risers for better seal and coat the inner side with several layers of plasti-dip to stiffen it.  The stock pads are too soft and soak up the sound.  Stiffening the inner side makes substantial improvement for closed headphones if the inner side isn't already stiff and smooth.  It affects how the pads channel sound to your ears.  Ultrasone and Beyerdynamic have the best idea, using stiff plastic for the inner side of the earpads from the headphones I've seen (DT880/990, HFI-2400, even Sennheiser's HD6x0).

An interesting side note, HFI-2400's earpads' inner side plastic have grooves on them, like rifling.  It might be interesting to somehow hear what this does to T50RP's sound.


Hmm...

 

Well, one of these days I have to get around to making some new pads. this time I'm going to angle them towards the rear and down a bit. I'm going to make three layers including a hard layer near the driver, a stiff layer in the center made of leather and a soft layer on the outside to contact me.

 

But it's all about seal with the pads.

 

post #65 of 110

What made you decide to drill some holes in the cups?. Where did you drill or does it not matter? TIA.
 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bandeira View Post

My T50RP seems a bit similar to BotByte's(BTW, thanks for the input on the other thread)...

Stuffed pads, dampening...

 

One thing I found that gave me more bass, and helped A LOT in overall tonal balance is drilling one 5ish mm hole in each cup. I honestly did not expect this to help, mainly for the nature of the driver, but it did help a lot...

If you don't like it, you can alway fill it with some tape and/or dynamat...

 

When you guys say burn in, how many hours (approximately) are talking about?

Mine have some 200ish hours on them...

 

I also find both my Fostexes to be quite power hungry... They sure did benefit a lot from my latest amp upgrades...



 

post #66 of 110
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK35 View Post

What made you decide to drill some holes in the cups?. Where did you drill or does it not matter? TIA.
 



 


People say it's like putting a vent for the bass.

 

One of the best ideas I came up with was a small dot (I used a foot hold that I stripped off a broken scale) Pretty much it's a round dot 1/2inch diameter with a glue side that I attached in the center of the back driver. Over the most center port hole and that somehow controlled everything better.

 

You can drill a hole, but I just cut all my dampening to the vent in the side and removed the tape for the air to move.

post #67 of 110

"but I just cut all my dampening to the vent in the side and removed the tape for the air to move"

 

I think I will try this method if I feel the need for more bass (not ordered them yet).

post #68 of 110

@BotByte or other T50RP owners:

Could you post some photos of what the T50RP looks like on one's head? They seem to be fugly based on the pictures available on the Fostex website. I am wondering what they look like in the real world. Not that looks are more important than sound, I could wear a headphone made out of feces if it sounded good :) Nevertheless, I am still curious what they look like on a real head...

post #69 of 110
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidK35 View Post

"but I just cut all my dampening to the vent in the side and removed the tape for the air to move"

 

I think I will try this method if I feel the need for more bass (not ordered them yet).


More bass would be a thick layer of blutak over the backing and blutak every nook and corner. But, don't fill to touch the driver.

 

To control the bass more, do the dot and cut the hole to the driver and this causes the air to move more freely while the amount of bass is still good.

 

Pads are the biggest improvement.

 



Quote:
Originally Posted by jupitreas View Post

@BotByte or other T50RP owners:

Could you post some photos of what the T50RP looks like on one's head? They seem to be fugly based on the pictures available on the Fostex website. I am wondering what they look like in the real world. Not that looks are more important than sound, I could wear a headphone made out of feces if it sounded good :) Nevertheless, I am still curious what they look like on a real head...

 

I don't take pictures of myself to post online.

 

They look like AKG's. That's about the best you can think about.

post #70 of 110
Thread Starter 

UPDATING PICTURES

 

DSC00383.JPG

 

The full thing

 

 

DSC00384.JPG

 

One pad off.

 

DSC00385.JPG

 

Both pads off. Left is towards head. Right is towards cup.

 

DSC00386.JPG

 

Removed driver felt. Just took driver out of the holder and slid knife through the felt for a clean cut

 

DSC00389.JPG

 

My headband holding system. Just removed the headband and slid the system over it.

 

DSC00390.JPG

 

Rear of driver.

 

DSC00391.JPG

 

That dampening dot is from somewhere. Don't remember where though. Controlled everything a little better though. Blutack on the inside too.

 

DSC00392.JPG

 

Blutak (not blue) on the inside. Not too pretty but doesn't matter. This is three stick rolled out with a rolling pin and the center cup open. Lay it across the with vent viable. The vent frees some bass, but also gives the driver more control of it. What's better? More bass or better bass?

 

DSC00393.JPG

 

To show I applied duck tape over everything on the inside to clear the plastic harmonics

 

DSC00395.JPG

 

Center of the driver port is blutak in a mm thin stretch to replace the felt that was there. I think this actually did something, maybe more clarity and cleared up some rattle. But not too sure.

 

DSC00397.JPG

 

To show how thick my pads are. That is a upside down 2, don't ask, it's a mechainist's ruler. It's just over 1 1/2 inched in width

 

DSC00398.JPG

 

The completed T50RP modded to a LCD-2's specs.

 

Enjoy the picks and don't think it's rude to ask questions.

post #71 of 110

Hey, thanks botbyte! I'll be checking back as I've GOT to try this!

 

just waiting for somebody to come in stock somewhere.


Edited by Hennyo - 9/4/11 at 8:33pm
post #72 of 110
BotByte, your pads and headband mods are drool worthy
post #73 of 110

Those are totally badass. I need to find a pair of these things.

post #74 of 110
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hennyo View Post

Hey, thanks botbyte! I'll be checking back as I've GOT to try this!

 

just waiting for somebody to come in stock somewhere.


Patience is needed

 



Quote:
Originally Posted by Draygonn View Post

BotByte, your pads and headband mods are drool worthy


 

The band is alright. The pads I've had to mod several times to get right. I still need to make new ones.


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChavaC View Post

Those are totally badass. I need to find a pair of these things.



Have fun

post #75 of 110

All parts of the spectrum improve by removing the white felt and replacing it with a stiff craft felt...  this requires tuning the vent to reduce the then huge bass output, but it works incredibly well.  My $.02 is this will take your mod even further, but the caveat is it is not reversible.  I have built 5 pair and done significant A/B time, and there is no comparison.   

 

Also, BluTak can be improved on by using plasticine.  It is way denser and better at mass loading the baffle and killing resonances in the plastic.  

 

I'm curious why you chose to damp the back cup with blutak instead of using foam to kill reflections.  Did you A/B?  What was the result?  Or have you only tried it this way?  

 

Loved the hand-made ear pads and band.  Wish I could sew leather (probably just need to try and be willing to thread my finger a few times)...  :-)  


Edited by mrspeakers - 9/9/11 at 11:54pm
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Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Headphones (full-size) › [REVIEW] Fostex T50RP, it's been needing a Review