[REVIEW] Fostex T50RP, it's been needing a Review | Page 4 | Headphone Reviews and Discussion - Head-Fi.org

BotByte · Aug 20, 2011 at 11:43 PM

Quote:

micmacmo said:
ACDOAN, I noticed you have K702. How does it compare to the T50 RP? The way the T50 is described, it sounds like it shares a lot in common with the K702. I own K701 and was wondering what more, if anything, I could expect from the T50. Thanks.

Returning to your first post.

The K702 is nice for it's air soundstage and mids while also covering all the bases nicely. But against a modded T50RP, it's a slaughter

I can compare my T50Rp against a LCD-2 if I wish. And I want to borrow a pair to test them head to head. Last round went to LCD-2 sadly. Might have been the amp though.

micmacmo · Aug 21, 2011 at 1:58 AM

Well, I guess I'll be looking for some T50s. Can I generalize and assume that an amp that drives K701 will drive a T50RP?

BotByte · Aug 21, 2011 at 2:36 AM

Quote:

micmacmo said:
Well, I guess I'll be looking for some T50s. Can I generalize and assume that an amp that drives K701 will drive a T50RP?

On the pack they say 56ohm I believe. But in truth, they pull about 250ohms.

Your amps should pull it. Most do because it doesn't have a impendance spike, just a flat hunger for power.

But be warned, they will sound horrid at first but after the burn in they sound better. Lock your headphones away and listen to them stock for a week before mods. You'll be surprised.

Also, they will sound like K701's after some modding. Either if that's good for you or not, you can always mod it out.

Mad Max · Aug 21, 2011 at 3:47 PM

T50 is 32 ohm, 98 dB/mw, same as any Grado.
250ohm? How?
I find T50 extremely easy to power.

I my T50 became a little fuller, clearer, and more detailed after rewiring it with Mogami 24awg wire.
The crummy stock wire is IEM wire with extra-thick insulation. The internal wiring is some dubious copper wire that requires a heck of a lot of heat to tin. =\

micmacmo · Aug 21, 2011 at 3:50 PM

In the ortho roundup forum, there was some talk of certain drivers requiring aluminum solder for rewiring. I'm hoping you'll tell me that's not the case with T50s, is it?

Also, I think I've found a Canadian supplier of cable. Is this the same Mogami 24awg cable you mentioned?

Mad Max · Aug 21, 2011 at 3:57 PM

I used Cardas solder.

kingoftown1 · Aug 21, 2011 at 6:22 PM

Well, I've just ordered a T50RP, 840 pads, and some Mogami quad to bump me up to free shipping. Hoping I love these

....and absolutely excited to try some mods.

micmacmo · Aug 21, 2011 at 7:12 PM

Quote:

kingoftown1 said:
Well, I've just ordered a T50RP, 840 pads, and some Mogami quad to bump me up to free shipping. Hoping I love these

....and absolutely excited to try some mods.

Where did you order from?

BotByte · Aug 21, 2011 at 7:39 PM

Quote:

kingoftown1 said:
Well, I've just ordered a T50RP, 840 pads, and some Mogami quad to bump me up to free shipping. Hoping I love these

....and absolutely excited to try some mods.

Get some Blutak, felt and a precision screwdriver. A little foam might not hurt either.

Quote:

micmacmo said:
Where did you order from?

I got mine at B&H photo

Quote:

mad max said:
T50 is 32 ohm, 98 dB/mw, same as any Grado.
250ohm? How?
I find T50 extremely easy to power.

I my T50 became a little fuller, clearer, and more detailed after rewiring it with Mogami 24awg wire.
The crummy stock wire is IEM wire with extra-thick insulation. The internal wiring is some dubious copper wire that requires a heck of a lot of heat to tin. =\

Portapro's run at 60ohm, a 5% turn off my receiver volume. Grado is my base, HD598 is 10% and T50RP is 55%.

No Idea why, might as well do a recable but It won't do much for SQ

kingoftown1 · Aug 21, 2011 at 9:12 PM

I got mine from performance audio. My plan right now is to try plasticine and felt after a decent stock listen.

BotByte · Aug 21, 2011 at 9:17 PM

Quote:

kingoftown1 said:
I got mine from performance audio. My plan right now is to try plasticine and felt after a decent stock listen.

Hide your other headphones away for a week while burning and listening into the T50RPs only. It's the only way to get used to them.

kingoftown1 · Aug 21, 2011 at 9:23 PM

Quote:

botbyte said:
Hide your other headphones away for a week while burning and listening into the T50RPs only. It's the only way to get used to them.

I'm a bit worried about a lack of highs, but I think that coming from the AD900, the forward mids won't completely put me off. Either way, I'm excited for my first ortho!

Bandeira · Aug 21, 2011 at 9:57 PM

My T50RP seems a bit similar to BotByte's(BTW, thanks for the input on the other thread)...
Stuffed pads, dampening...

One thing I found that gave me more bass, and helped A LOT in overall tonal balance is drilling one 5ish mm hole in each cup. I honestly did not expect this to help, mainly for the nature of the driver, but it did help a lot...
If you don't like it, you can alway fill it with some tape and/or dynamat...

When you guys say burn in, how many hours (approximately) are talking about?
Mine have some 200ish hours on them...

I also find both my Fostexes to be quite power hungry... They sure did benefit a lot from my latest amp upgrades...

BotByte · Aug 21, 2011 at 10:01 PM

Quote:

bandeira said:
My T50RP seems a bit similar to BotByte's(BTW, thanks for the input on the other thread)...
Stuffed pads, dampening...

One thing I found that gave me more bass, and helped A LOT in overall tonal balance is drilling one 5ish mm hole in each cup. I honestly did not expect this to help, mainly for the nature of the driver, but it did help a lot...
If you don't like it, you can alway fill it with some tape and/or dynamat...

When you guys say burn in, how many hours (approximately) are talking about?
Mine have some 200ish hours on them...

I also find both my Fostexes to be quite power hungry... They sure did benefit a lot from my latest amp upgrades...

I said 4 hours to 8 hours for the true sound. But it takes your ears 200 hours to get used to them.

The hole idea is the best way for bassheads to lower the bass without forcing the accuracy out.

I've got close to 1000 hours on my T50Rp at the moment. My Grado have close to 20,000 hours I'm guessing.

Mad Max · Aug 21, 2011 at 10:07 PM

Quote:

micmacmo said:
In the ortho roundup forum, there was some talk of certain drivers requiring aluminum solder for rewiring. I'm hoping you'll tell me that's not the case with T50s, is it?

Also, I think I've found a Canadian supplier of cable. Is this the same Mogami 24awg cable you mentioned?

That's what I used. Easy to work with, but not quite as droopy as the stock cable.

Quote:

micmacmo said:
Where did you order from?

A bunch of places in the US that sell pro audio equipment carry T50RP, whether they have it in stock at the moment or not depends.
I bought mine from Music123.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BotByte /img/forum/go_quote.gif

...
Portapro's run at 60ohm, a 5% turn off my receiver volume. Grado is my base, HD598 is 10% and T50RP is 55%...

I don't have to change volume between the Fostex or SR325is on any piece of equipment to get the same listening volume with either, precisely as I expected.
Perhaps yours is making poor contact in the jack where the detachable cable connects to the left cup?

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