Maybe you are picking a ideology over sound quality.
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Head-Fi Buying Guide (Desktop Amps & DACs)
Last edited: 12/6/16
- Head-Fi Buying Guide (Desktop Amps & DACs) 2Last edited: 12/16/16
- Head-Fi Buying Guide (Portable Amps, DACs, & DAPs) (page 2)Last edited: 11/29/16
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Best DAC from $1500 to $2500 (or so) Can anything beat the Eastern Electric Minimax? - Page 12post #166 of 2609/16/12 at 6:05am
Gear mentioned in this thread:post #167 of 2609/16/12 at 7:04ampost #168 of 2609/16/12 at 7:06am
lol, I doubt that, but who knows.post #169 of 2609/16/12 at 7:13ampost #170 of 2609/16/12 at 7:26amQuote:
I've found that I don't have a preference between the two.post #171 of 2609/16/12 at 7:27ampost #172 of 2609/16/12 at 7:50am
I would suggest you avoid optical. Unless its a really good link extremely well implemented like the Audio Synthesis AY&T then in my experience not very good.
Also suggest you don't make an instant like/dislike out of the box. Some of the best kit i''ve heard doesn't impress out of the box as it does not draw attention to itself. Its only after you have listened for some time do you really appreciate how good or bad it may be.Quote:Originally Posted by Solude
Me too. Probably take longer than usual because of the options available to feed it. I'll start with the optical out of my PC, play around with sampling, might have to go to a USB>SPDIF, maybe not. Of course if I plug it in and my reaction is ugh... well it'll be up again the same day.
Edited by complin - 9/16/12 at 7:52ampost #173 of 2609/16/12 at 8:06am
Its not a new unit so after it thermally stabilizes its on. But yes it will go through my review process. But if at the end of the review process it's clear that it doesn't belong with the DAC-2... gone. I actually prefer optical glass for PC audio. Coax and PC is a bad idea. No data jitter but a butt ton of electrical jitter from the switching power supply. That I don't have a coax connection also seals the deal. Both the onboard and X-Fi use optical /shrugpost #174 of 2609/16/12 at 8:51ampost #175 of 2609/16/12 at 9:01ampost #176 of 2609/16/12 at 9:03am
And the same cards optical was obviously 0ps electrical, toslink is either on or off, and slightly worse 60ish ps data. This is in a time jitter boxes brought jitter DOWN to under 1000ps.post #177 of 2609/16/12 at 11:50amQuote:
X2 on no preference, I've held onto my Bel Canto DAC2 for years because it sounds so good even though it doesn't work in my balanced system. It upsamples everything to 24/192.post #178 of 2609/16/12 at 11:41pmpost #179 of 2609/17/12 at 3:47amQuote:The Metrum Octave keeps crossing my path but I just don't see a $850 retail DAC smoking the entry level 'Stereophile Class A' cast of DACs.
It's a very good DAC, but ideally you need to use a good USB to S/PDIF unit with it.Quote:Originally Posted by Solude
Its not a new unit so after it thermally stabilizes its on. But yes it will go through my review process. But if at the end of the review process it's clear that it doesn't belong with the DAC-2... gone. I actually prefer optical glass for PC audio. Coax and PC is a bad idea. No data jitter but a butt ton of electrical jitter from the switching power supply. That I don't have a coax connection also seals the deal. Both the onboard and X-Fi use optical /shrug
Most USB to S/PDIF converters are isolated electrically, which solves this too. For $2k, I'd suggest an Octave + Audiophilleo 2 + Pure Power. As crazy as it might sound spending half your money on the digital transport, after a lot of experimentation, I don't feel it is crazy any longer. That is what you are paying for the $3k+ DACs anyhow: A much better digital implementation. It just happens to be in the box and not outside it.post #180 of 2609/17/12 at 4:25am
- Best DAC from $1500 to $2500 (or so) Can anything beat the Eastern Electric Minimax?
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