Input Capacitors for LOD

No way for option 3, Im not sure which of the first 2 will work out better.

I guess this is as good a place as any to say that I dont like the sound of paralleled caps - In my limited experience (I tried it, it sucked, never gonna try it again) you get some funky smears from this. 

On the other hand, 1uF is on the borderline small size if you have a 10Kohm input impedance after the caps you may prefer 4.7uF. If you have a 100Kohm pot, 1uF is of course rocking.

I guess this is a great place to make a design compromise. :) Or just build 2 and sell the one you dont like. 

Is Sansa's line-out before or after its internal DC blocking cap? I thought unless you mod the player (iMod, DiyMod, etc) the line-out is after the internal cap, there is no need for external DC blocking.

If the source doesn't have any DC voltage offset at its output it doesn't need output caps. 

Quote:

Originally Posted by psgarcha92 

The Line out doesnt have any DC Blocking Caps in it for the Sansa Fuze.

....

so the Sansa's line-out signal has a fixed DC component?

I dont know, just saying generally. its easy to check.

Quote:

Originally Posted by psgarcha92 

 

That was what i always wondered when ClieOS had two of his LODs based on Electrolytic Nichicons.

The reason to choose 100uF is mostly historical. Sandisk didn't implement any cap in the Fuze themselves but they did ask their accessories maker to put one in the accessories. As far as we know, Graffin is the only Sansa accessories maker that manufacture Fuze's accessories that use the line-out signal. That is where the few members over at Sandisk forum (including me) reverse engineered the first LOD out based on Graffin's design. To be true to the Graffin's circuit, the 220uF value was kept when I was experimenting and writing the first guide to make a Fuze LOD. I tried LOD using different cap with different capacity (Panasonic 220uF, BlackGate NX Hi-Q 22uF, other Nichicon, etc),  but none sounds as good as the Nichicon MUSE ES 100uF (same size as most 220uF as it is bi-polar), and that is what I eventually use the most (and later, OxiCap 47uF + Wima 0.068uF too)

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by AudioCats 

so the Sansa's line-out signal has a fixed DC component?

Yeah, like 1.4V of it.
 

Yup, this is for my diymod, but I've used same capcity 220uF Silmic 2 Electros.  And it sound great. wide soundstange, and great vocals.  It sounds like a desktop rig. Don't know why nik says no to 3, as there are many amps that use large caps, he must have heard it some where.  

Attractive . Must be functional eh....

My DIY Lod's generally use 33uf Muse, you can fit them inside hehe.

I have a LOD with a cap inside.  The 220uF sounds better, it has wider sound stage and better vocals, and more resolution to my ears.  It is as much fuctional as CLAS.  I would think it's more functional since I don't need a humongous DAC such as CLAS when my DAP provides one.  Just a DAP and amp here.  IMO CLAS is an overkill.  Enjoy your CLAS spud, I'm sure you got a fair price from ALO just like his great looking cables $$.  I've seen CLAS rigs, and it look pretty heady. Ignorance is bliss I say.  Mine is not as attractive, but it sounds great.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SpudHarris 

Attractive . Must be functional eh....

 

My DIY Lod's generally use 33uf Muse, you can fit them inside hehe.

Don't start that again ya big kid! Ain't no shame in not being able to afford it stop being so touchy.

Apologies to the OP on two counts. 1st High_Q and I were both quoting values for iMod LOD's so take what you will from them and 2nd for touching a nerve again with High_Q he's famous for derailing threads....