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K1000 or Senn HE60 - Page 4

post #46 of 75
1/14/04 at 2:17pm
Quote:
Originally posted by marios_mar
I sent uncledan a pm but he dednt reply regarding his HE60s
I woder how much he sold them for.
He already sold them. I thought about buying them and made an $800 offer since they were in beautiful shape. Apparently someone outbid me.


Quote:
Now I wonder, which cans have better longevity dynamic or electrostatic. Just am curious.
Both designs are prone to damage however can last a long time. There are plenty of very old cans around, both electrostatic and dynamic.
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post #47 of 75
1/14/04 at 2:19pm
Would it be a bad idea to leave on 24/7 a small class A amp like the AKG SAC K1000 amp?

It get's pretty hot.

-Ed
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post #48 of 75
1/14/04 at 2:23pm
there's a baby O combo right now on ebay.de btw :

http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...category=22504
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post #49 of 75
1/14/04 at 5:34pm
Thread Starter 
Ok thanks for the answers.

Now another Q.

Are the driver units both energizers and amplifiers?

Ive seen some older stax systems where you have to hava an amp so I suppose your staxes then are as good as your speaker amp. What are the power requirements for older units such as the srd-7 or any other older stax energizer?

For the HE60s and 2020s is all you have to do just to connect the sources RCAs to the driver unit?
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post #50 of 75
1/14/04 at 5:39pm
You connect RCA IC's into the RCA inputs on the HEV70 and connect the HE60 into the HEV70.

-Ed
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post #51 of 75
1/14/04 at 5:49pm
Thread Starter 
I know about thos Baby Os on ebay. I was thinking 650-700 EUROS as a maximum bid for me. More would be exaggerating.
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post #52 of 75
1/14/04 at 6:59pm
Quote:
Originally posted by marios_mar
Are the driver units both energizers and amplifiers?
All Stax amps I've seen are both, because electrostatics need a high bias voltage to work. There are some Stax headphones (SR-44, SR-84) that are electret designs which don't need an external bias voltage, but the same amps will drive them fine.

Quote:

For the HE60s and 2020s is all you have to do just to connect the sources RCAs to the driver unit?
Yes, and that's the case for the older Stax amps as well.

--Andre
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post #53 of 75
1/14/04 at 7:03pm
Thread Starter 
well it seems you are wrong. Check out the SRD-7. It needs an amp. That means that the Staxes become as good as your main amp!

Does anyone know whats the lowest wattage this SRD-7 or something similar requires? Is 2+2Watts from tubes enough?
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post #54 of 75
1/14/04 at 7:14pm
You need power amps for the older Stax amps, however they all have the old style plugs and the current Stax models will not work with them, on the other hand newer self contain amps that do not need power amps will work with older stax headpho...er..earspeakers (note the two different inputs on the front)
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post #55 of 75
1/14/04 at 7:31pm
The older Stax energizer systems (for the SR-30 / SR-80 / SR-5 / SR-Lamdba) wasn't the most efficient in the world - they needed a decent amp, with a modest current, to get their bottom end moving. Not outrageous, but not minor either. For instance, the SRD-7 never really sounded great with Denon stuff from the same era, but got much better with HK, Belles (a bit dark, like the amps themselves), PSE, B&K, etc. They do acquire the sound of the driver amp, and you can indeed tell the difference.

I would recommend, depending upon the earspeaker in question, a SS amp of a least 35W. The bigger the earspeaker (the larger the driver surface) the more power it needed, it seemed. I, honestly, never tested the SRM-7 with tubes. If you have a very large voltage swing with those tubes then they just might work very well, but I can't say without putting my foot, and knee, in my mouth

You know, FWIW, the SR-30's were less efficent than the SR-80's, and from those (seemingly) early years the SR-5 mk2 seemed to be the least efficient of all. IIRC even less than the Lambdas plugged into the SRD-7. But that was a long time ago, and me mind is slipp.................ing

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post #56 of 75
1/14/04 at 7:43pm
Quote:
Originally posted by Edwood
Would it be a bad idea to leave on 24/7 a small class A amp like the AKG SAC K1000 amp?
I would say yes. I have limited experience but have such with Electrocompaniet class A, Stax class A, and Kinergetics high bias A/B. All blew up with long term continous idling; their bias stage goes boom from the heat (with the Kinergetics it was especially fun - we had a plexi top on the unit to show off it's construction and I happened to be there when it when boom! (for the third time) Ooh, light show!! )
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post #57 of 75
1/14/04 at 8:22pm
Well, that really sucks, because I'll have to yank the power cord all the time because the power switch is purely decorational. It only cuts the outputs. The SAC stays hot.

-Ed
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post #58 of 75
1/14/04 at 8:38pm
I would say that it was better to leave the amp on 24/7 because you stress the components a lot more when you turn it on rather when you leave it on all the time. Some amps are't designed to be left on 24/7 but most are.

I leave my whole system on all the time since it makes a big sonic difference.
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post #59 of 75
1/14/04 at 9:20pm
Quote:
Originally posted by marios_mar
well it seems you are wrong. Check out the SRD-7. It needs an amp. That means that the Staxes become as good as your main amp!
SRD-7 is not an amp --- it is a transformer that is used to step up the voltage from a normal low-voltage speaker amp. Perhaps we're not using the same terminology?

--Andre
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post #60 of 75
1/14/04 at 9:28pm
Quote:
Originally posted by Edwood
Would it be a bad idea to leave on 24/7 a small class A amp like the AKG SAC K1000 amp?

It get's pretty hot.

-Ed
I leave my AKG SAC K1000 amp on 24/7. I have a small 2" diameter 12v fan running at 5v (slow and quiet) running directly above the K1000 amp to keep it cool. Works great and the amp always sounds its best.
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