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Audio Technica ATH-PRO700MK2 review - Take two subwoofers...straight to the head. - Page 43

post #631 of 865
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dutchi MerenGue View Post

how'd did u manage to import the settings without crashing electri q? i cant do anything on this without it crashing, help? :(

 

 

 

or could you or the original creater put up the numbers so i can input them manually? i really want to give this a try

I just copied the graph. They should have a tutorial on this too.

post #632 of 865
Quote:
Originally Posted by Build It Man View Post

 

 

 

the XB700 pads are from sony's MDR-XB700 headphone. They are insanely comortable, and are supposed to bring better sonics. Like the Pro700 the XB700 have a circiular earcup, and both have a similar driver size. This allows for a cleaner easier installation. The ath M50, and DT250 pads are more oval, and thus require more work to get a proper fit.

I have the XB700's, I found out you can't really remove the pads and place them back easily. The only place I found the pads was at Sony for $70, while you can get the headphones for $85 elsewhere. Any better place to get those pads?

 

 

So far I'm liking the XB700 and the M50 better than the PRO700(with M50 pads).

post #633 of 865
Quote:
Originally Posted by lmswjm View Post

I have the XB700's, I found out you can't really remove the pads and place them back easily. The only place I found the pads was at Sony for $70, while you can get the headphones for $85 elsewhere. Any better place to get those pads?

 

 

So far I'm liking the XB700 and the M50 better than the PRO700(with M50 pads).

 

Preference is king. As a novice, I understand that the xb700 is quite a bass-heavy can. As a result I'm not going to put you down for preferring a different can within a similar "genre" or "class" as the Pro7hundy. 

 

I would, however, like to know why you prefer the m50 over the 700? I'm considering the fact that you have two bass-heavy/oriented cans at your disposal and one "monitor" can. I put the word monitor in quotation marks because there seems to be a fair bit of heat on this forum which points to the fact that they aren't particularly monitor-worthy. This is due to the fact that they have specific sound signature. Note: not my words. I haven't auditioned 'em.

Not trying to be mean, mate. Just asking for your opinion! :)

 

Last comment: Have you done a comparison using the stock Pro7hundy pads?

 

 

Anyway, time for a picture!....and a hilarious/quite distressing tale!

 

 

Back story: I've been away from home (camping) for a week and I didn't bring my cans. No one wants a sandy can..

 

Anyway, mum came up to me tonight and said, "Hey Karl, while you were away from home I had a listen to your headphones! (P700mk2 ANV). I tried using yours when I went running and sorry, but I dropped them once (she was using the coiled cable rather than the straight....why mum?), but they're just not portable enough. Have a listen to my headphones and tell me what you think! I think mine are better because they don't slip off my head so easily."

 

 

 

 

 

whymumwhy

 

 

 

 

"wut"

 

 

Her birthday is coming up in a few weeks. Yup, gonna buy her some PortaPros!

 

 

Disclaimer: My cans only suffered a small cosmetic scuff in the making of this post/story......

post #634 of 865

Obviously ALL cans are flawed in someway. As far as the term "monitor" goes, if I was going to monitor a mix or a track, out of the aforementioned 3, I would have to easily pick the M50. They hyped highs will illuminate a lot more.

 

For me, comfort is a major factor. That was a big strike against the LCD3 among other things for me. The clamping and the rolled highs are bumming me out right now on the PRO700's. Maybe with the right pads and a stretched out band, things will be different. Comfort on the M50 and XB700 are supreme. I prefer the highs on the M50 over the Pro700, even though they are hyped. The rolled highs and hyped bass on the XB700 make my iPhone sound great. Definitely not audiophile grade, but very good, and they are very fun. I have no use for the XB700 on my home rig. I was looking for something to potentially replace the XB700 on my iPhone.

 

BTW, I've used DT250's and stock pads too.

post #635 of 865
Quote:
Originally Posted by lmswjm View Post

I have the XB700's, I found out you can't really remove the pads and place them back easily. The only place I found the pads was at Sony for $70, while you can get the headphones for $85 elsewhere. Any better place to get those pads?

 

 

So far I'm liking the XB700 and the M50 better than the PRO700(with M50 pads).

My suggestion to you is to post a pic of the XB700 pads, and the Pro700 pads next to a naked/ padless Pro700.

post #636 of 865

for all those who do not own each of those pads, it will provide some foundation for what each looks like, and how they fit.

post #637 of 865

i too am in the process of deciding whether to get the Pro700 (my other option is the m50).

 

I work as a hardware engineer, (i build custom PCs, liquid cooling, custom boards and hardware,ect....) With the fate of a successful project falling into literally factors i cannot even see (static, ionization, micro channel decomposition, ect....) I take a lot of attention to detail. Although audio might not exactly be my forte, i can tell what has a better design.

 

the Pro700 has many desirable features, including..

  • Detachable cables (i plan to replace mine with some custom (made by me) cables, giving faster data transfer rates, and leaving less lost info)
  • very strong design, making them durable, and able to handle years of hard use.
  • plastic frame. why you might ask. when hydro graphing (look it up on youtube, or tom's hardwear), plastic is much easier for the catalyst to bond to. Plastic is much easier to work with in many custom hardware applications.
  • circular earpads are MUCH easier to fabricate, and so should i need to, i can make replacement easily
  • although they may be tight, 20 mins with a basic heat gun, or even a hair dryer, can fix that
  • for a closed back, detachable cable, great sounding, well built, durable pair of headphones, they are pretty hard to beat
post #638 of 865

after many requests, i will give a tutorial on how to make the classy sophisticated carbon fiber headphone.

being in the custom hardware industry, this is one of the first things you learn to do. The carbon fiber fad is ever growing , and thus, i will give instruction on how to make you headphones look like they are made from this wonderous material.

 

 there are 2 methods of doing this without going over $50. first is using carbon di-noc, second is by hydro graphing

di-noc is easy, simple, and most of the time can be done for $5-$12. the only downside is that it when not done very well, looks somewhat crooked, and the di-noc when not sealy properly; can peel off. Hydro graphing is more expensive, is MUCH harder to prep, and requires a little more skill. But, this method looks flawless, professional, and in many ways better.

 

Before you begin either of these methods, know this

 

Di-Noc is a woven, graphite/vinyl based cloth, it looks and feels exactly like carbon fiber. Di-Noc is made in the same factories they make carbon fiber. overall it looks veeerrrrryyyyy nice, but only when done perfectly. it requires very little prep, is easy to do, and other than the Di-Noc, you probably already have everything.

 

Hydro-Graphing is a process where you dip individual parts into a colored film suspended in water. It will require you to take apart your headphones, and separate any pieces you want colored. The upside to hydro graphing is that it looks flawless, imagine dipping your hand into water, the water will perfectly conform around your hand. hydro-graphing works just like this, perfectly coloring every nook, cranny, aswell as everything in-between, the perfect paint job. But because it is only paint, it will not feel, or look exactly like carbon fiber. However, there are many hydro graphing designs so if you don't like one, you could choose something else

post #639 of 865

Tutorial For Di-Noc:

 First you are gonna want to buy some, i have provided a link below. This will give you a 24 by 12 in sheet (that is enough for 2- 3 pairs of headphones) Also remember that Di-Noc is made in many different colors, so if you want red, blue, or green carbon fiber you can do that. The link i have given is for a realistic carbon color.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Graphite-3M-DI-NOC-Carbon-CA-420/dp/B006FP1Y9K/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_7

 

now before we begin, i personally recommend you you also pick up some primer 94 (it helps strengthen the bond, and gives it a more professional feel) but it is not absolutely necessary.

 

  1. to begin wipe down you headphone with an alcohol pad, this is to prepare the surface, and make sure everything is clean. If you did decide to get the primer, once dry, apply the thinnest possible layer to all surfaces you want to Di-Noc. Try to make the layer as thin as possible, a little goes a long way. I find the best method is to dip a paper towel and then brush it on removing all excess.
  2. Trace any surfaces on the di-noc, remember it is always better for it to be a little bigger
  3. Cut out your di-noc shapes, now is the time to check them against your headphone and make sure they are the right dimensions
  4. Next you are gonna need a heat gun/ hair dryer. peel the back off the di-noc, and slowly heat up the shapes with the heat gun
  5. Place your shapes on your headphones. use the heat gun again to help remove any air bubbles and make sure it has a clean, nice fit
  6. let the di-noc cool, and if you used primer 94, let it dry
  7. thats it, you now have an amazing looking pair of carbon fiber headphones
post #640 of 865

Tutorial for Hydro-Graphing

 

First you need to make sure you have a bucket or container about 1 ft deep, and at least 1 ft wide

Pick out whatever pattern you want, and make sure it also has a catalyst. When buying patterns online, some stores require you to buy a catalyst separatly

 

  1. you will need to disassemble your entire headphone, then separate any pieces you want to dip
  2. cut the film into sections, one section for every piece you are gonna dip. YOU CANNOT USE ONE LARGE SHEET FOR ALL OF YOUR PIECES
  3. take some masking tape, line the edges of all your sheets with a nice border of tape
  4. make cuts in the tape from the edge inward towards the pattern on all the corners, and in the center of every side
  5. one all your sheets are prepared, fill your container with water
  6. clean all headphone pieces with an alcohol pad, then spray your primer on (let this dry for about an hour)
  7. carefully place your first sheet on the water, make sure it is floating will no water on top
  8. next spray a decent amount of catalyst on the sheet, you know you are ready for dipping when the sheet expands and turns slightly translucent
  9. put on a pair of rubber gloves and get ready for dipping
  10. grab you headphone piece on a spot the will not be painted (like the inside)
  11. slowly push the piece through the sheet, one it has gone all the way through shake it around in the water.
  12. do this same dipping process for every headphone piece
  13. let the pieces dry
  14. reassembly your headphones and you are done

 

to give further explanation, i have put a video down below of the process

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yt6_ur8hybY&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=fvwrel&v=YB9YtesgL2Y&NR=1

post #641 of 865
Quote:
Originally Posted by WakiDabeast View Post

 

hehe just got the anv one today hehe and i think  the pro700mkii bass doesn't%2pmake the m50 sound anemic o0(even though probably most people would say it does), it's weird cause i've heard a lot of mixed things about the Pro700mkII bass. and honestly I expected it to be a lot more bass heavy coming straight from my galaxy s3 international and even from my receiver; however, when I paired it up with the Zo2.............well let's just say I could really feel the bass down my neck as Trae has said before ^^

 

I've heard the ANV edition a co5ple of times, and I actually feel that its bass presentation is a little toned down when compared with the original, stock model. In any case, I feel the bass on my M50s to be quite anemic these days. Still, the bass on the PRO700MK2 is decidedly better than the M50s in all aspects.

 

Unamped, the differences between the 2 are not as significant as when running them through an amp (E11, ZO2,3). Once you've properly amped both cans, the PRO700MK2 shows its ability in style. It'll really rock your head in XB500 fashion without distortion. Shame about the clamping force, though.

post #642 of 865
Quote:

Originally Posted by lmswjm View Post
 

*SNIP* 

 

 

 

Cheers for the info mate. Seems like you know your stuff considering you're rocking xb700s as your ports! I'd add more, but it wouldn't be topic specific. You might find me in that huge thread where all the noobs ask questions! :D

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Build It Man View Post

i too am in the process of deciding whether to get the Pro700 (my other option is the m50).

 

I work as a hardware engineer, (i build custom PCs, liquid cooling, custom boards and hardware,ect....) With the fate of a successful project falling into literally factors i cannot even see (static, ionization, micro channel decomposition, ect....) I take a lot of attention to detail. Although audio might not exactly be my forte, i can tell what has a better design.

 

the Pro700 has many desirable features, including..

  • Detachable cables (i plan to replace mine with some custom (made by me) cables, giving faster data transfer rates, and leaving less lost info)
  • very strong design, making them durable, and able to handle years of hard use.
  • plastic frame. why you might ask. when hydro graphing (look it up on youtube, or tom's hardwear), plastic is much easier for the catalyst to bond to. Plastic is much easier to work with in many custom hardware applications.
  • circular earpads are MUCH easier to fabricate, and so should i need to, i can make replacement easily
  • although they may be tight, 20 mins with a basic heat gun, or even a hair dryer, can fix that
  • for a closed back, detachable cable, great sounding, well built, durable pair of headphones, they are pretty hard to beat

 

How you doin, BIM?

I'm not going to lie, I have only skimmed through your other posts. I did engineering once (civil), but it seems you're from Mars!!

Something I am extremely interested in.. is custom cables for these cans? (question mark there because I have nothing else to say hah..)

 

These cans are tight and my head is kinda big. I endured the pain (not that bad, 4-5 hours on, 30 min off) for 2 weeks and now I don't feel anything <8hrs. It's brilliant! No pain, no gain??

post #643 of 865
Still have mine paired with a Fiio E17 and they are truly awesome headphones!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
post #644 of 865
Quote:
Originally Posted by Malevolent View Post

 

I've heard the ANV edition a co5ple of times, and I actually feel that its bass presentation is a little toned down when compared with the original, stock model. In any case, I feel the bass on my M50s to be quite anemic these days. Still, the bass on the PRO700MK2 is decidedly better than the M50s in all aspects.

 

Unamped, the differences between the 2 are not as significant as when running them through an amp (E11, ZO2,3). Once you've properly amped both cans, the PRO700MK2 shows its ability in style. It'll really rock your head in XB500 fashion without distortion. Shame about the clamping force, though.

Yeah, I don't get that head shaking without an amp, but wow with an amp...

post #645 of 865
Quote:
Originally Posted by WakiDabeast View Post

Yeah, I don't get that head shaking without an amp, but wow with an amp...

 

TBH. no headphones have produced brainshaking bass response without amp (or EQing / bass boost) in my experience. :P Only audiophiles used to no bass boost may think otherwise perhaps. ^^

 

Now I'm obviously speaking at low / reasonable 24/7 listening volumes, of course you could crank the volume but by then the mids & highs will seriously damage your hearing too. Since I don't like listening overly loud I need quite a big bass boost to feel satisfied at the lower volumes.


Edited by RPGWiZaRD - 7/28/12 at 10:58am
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