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ATH-M50 Removable Cable Mod - Page 52

post #766 of 770
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocko1 View Post
 

 

Did you have any issues putting the nut on this from the inside?

some versions of that connector don't have a nut, they have wings that hold it there after it's been inserted all the way. When I have use the one with a locking nut, I don't use the nut I epoxy instead.

post #767 of 770
Quote:
Originally Posted by cCasper TFG View Post

some versions of that connector don't have a nut, they have wings that hold it there after it's been inserted all the way. When I have use the one with a locking nut, I don't use the nut I epoxy instead.

Thanks. Mine has a nut. I am able to get a couple spins so it looks like it will work. Now soldering those damn epoxy coated wires is a different story.
post #768 of 770
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocko1 View Post


Thanks. Mine has a nut. I am able to get a couple spins so it looks like it will work. Now soldering those damn epoxy coated wires is a different story.

Always replace the enameled wires when doing this, they are junk.

post #769 of 770
Quote:
Originally Posted by cCasper TFG View Post
 

Always replace the enameled wires when doing this, they are junk.

I am going to re-do mine with non-coated 20 or 22g wires. I can't stand the thought of a poorly soldered joint inside my cans! Thanks.

post #770 of 770

Spent the last two nights doing the mod. Made a couple of mistakes from trying to rush. Soldered it all up and forgot the nut on the inside. Used the MJ-073H jack from Newark which has the retaining nut on the underside of the jack.

 

Soldering the stock coated hair wires is a royal pain. I decided to use some 18 or 20g copper stranded wires and that was much easier. Problem is the wires are too thick and take up too much space in the cup with the white padding material installed.

 

 Did everyone used thicker wires put the white padding that sits on the bottom of the cup back in place?

 

Anyway, here is the result. Came out very nice.

 

 

 

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