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ATH-M50 Removable Cable Mod - Page 50

post #736 of 746

Quote:

Originally Posted by inertianinja View Post
 

would it be a good idea to replace the stock headphones entirely with some 22-gauge speaker wire and bypass this enamel crap entirely?

 

i bought some cheap radio shack 22awg speaker wire; it seems like the stock M50 cables are at least 24gauge, so it should be an improvement, no?

 

I'd avoid replacing the factory wires if possible.  Having to add new wire turned this job from less than an hour into half a day (I only recently learned to solder effectively.). 

 

I did not notice a sonic difference between the factory wire and the heavier wire that I used to replace it.

post #737 of 746
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpover View Post
 

Quote:

 

I'd avoid replacing the factory wires if possible.  Having to add new wire turned this job from less than an hour into half a day (I only recently learned to solder effectively.). 

 

I did not notice a sonic difference between the factory wire and the heavier wire that I used to replace it.

 

i'm definitely trying to avoid it. i'm also new to soldering, and despite a million attempts, I cannot get the stock enameled wire clean enough to tin. Some have suggested cleaning it with a knife or sandpaper, but the wire is too tiny and brittle.

 

Hell, the cables are so thin that i'm having trouble even stripping them without shredding the wire underneath. My wire stripper only goes down to 22. The 22ga speaker wire will be much easier to work with. 

 

I got some new, higher-flux solder and i'm going to give it another shot with the stock. At some point I'm not going to have any choice but to recable, or buy some M50X!

post #738 of 746

I strip the wires with my teeth, much easier than using a wire stripper to me.

Later I tried tinning the wire without stripping it and my way just doesn't require stripping it first, so hey, I don't even bother anymore, hahaha!  Sorry to hear you are having so much trouble, surely you are doing something wrong.  You can always recable the headphone outright with Mogami 2893 or Canare mini-quad mic cable, I don't remember its part number.  Cheaper than going M50x.

post #739 of 746
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Max View Post
 

I strip the wires with my teeth, much easier than using a wire stripper to me.

Later I tried tinning the wire without stripping it and my way just doesn't require stripping it first, so hey, I don't even bother anymore, hahaha!  Sorry to hear you are having so much trouble, surely you are doing something wrong.  You can always recable the headphone outright with Mogami 2893 or Canare mini-quad mic cable, I don't remember its part number.  Cheaper than going M50x.

 

your way was putting the cable directly into a blob of solder on the iron without stripping it?

post #740 of 746

Success!

 

This was my first time soldering. I tried like hell to get the stock cables tinned, but just couldn't make it work. I used the stock cable to practice, and went through almost the entire thing with bad results, trying every trick I could find on the internet.

 

Finally I picked up some 22awg speaker wire from Radio Shack, and of course it tinned very nicely. So I decided to recable the whole thing...if I couldn't do it, I was screwed anyway because I couldn't work with the stock cable.

 

I first disconnected the stock wiring from the driver by putting a tiny drop of solder on the iron, pulling lightly on the wire, and touching the iron to the existing solder joint just long enough for the wire to come free. To attach the new wire, I reversed the process - put the tinned new wire on the existing solder on the driver, put a tiny amount of tin on the iron (so it wouldn't overflow on the other joints), and touched it just long enough for the new wire to join with the existing solder.

 

Joints on the new headphone jack were very clean thanks to the clean wire, and I put some heat-shrink tubing around them for protection.

I used some hot glue to keep the jack from spinning in the hole.

 

I had to mutilate the driver holder in order to get everything to fit, but i was able to very gently get everything into place.

 

Also took this opportunity to upgrade to the HM5 ear pads.

 

Everything works! not bad for my first solder project.

Thanks to everyone for their help!

 

 

 

EDIT: in retrospect, i would have separated the two wires on the left of the photo so that they could have flexed more easily.

 

 

Now I have to clean up my desk.


Edited by inertianinja - 1/14/15 at 3:08pm
post #741 of 746

Nice job!

post #742 of 746
Quote:
Originally Posted by inertianinja View Post
 

 

your way was putting the cable directly into a blob of solder on the iron without stripping it?

 

Later on, it was.

post #743 of 746
Would this work with the ath t400?
post #744 of 746

I wanted to add one more thing regarding getting solder to stick to enameled wires:

 

I mentioned before that I tried to get the stock cable wires to clean (so solder would stick) by burning, sanding, etc, but nothing worked, and the wires wouldn't tin.

 

Well, I took this project one step further and adapted a cable with a mic/iphone controls to work...it required swapping the cable's mini-stereo jack with a 3.5mm jack. This cable also had enameled wires. I very quickly flashed them with a lighter, but not so much that they got black crap on them.

 

I didn't even try to tin them. When I attached them to the new jack. I just basically drowned them in blobs of solder. The solder stuck to the leads on the jack just fine, so the cable's wires were just trapped in the blobs. Happy to report that this worked nicely.

 

(BTW the cable was a replacement cable for a set of sennheisers that I found on amazon)

post #745 of 746
Quote:
Originally Posted by NeonicZyfr View Post

Would this work with the ath t400?

 

Most likely.  I've seen the inside of T200, and the other Tx00 headphones are probably similar/better, so that is why I guess so.  Your photo would be more useful if it would show more of the baffle and cup interior, all of it if possible.

post #746 of 746
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad Max View Post

Most likely.  I've seen the inside of T200, and the other Tx00 headphones are probably similar/better, so that is why I guess so.  Your photo would be more useful if it would show more of the baffle and cup interior, all of it if possible.

Here are better pictures of it.





Edited by NeonicZyfr - 1/15/15 at 3:46pm
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