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ATH-M50 Removable Cable Mod - Page 47

post #691 of 700
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeenJamin View Post
 

Hi New here, I been browsing through this thread and have been convinced to do the removable cable mod and after much trial and error it was a success. The only thing I am still wanting to do is put some sleeving on the original cable that was cut. I have a new 3.5 jack and was just wondering what would work good as I have tried some paracord that i picked up locally but it was to small to fit the cable and am now wondering what I should try. Any suggestions would be appreciated. 

Put the old cable aside and pick up some Mogami, take the sleeving off and put that through the paracord. If you are planning to put all 4 strands in one sleeve then you're looking for 550 paracord. You're also going to need some connectors for the two ends. I suggest Aphenol.

 

http://www.redco.com/Mogami-W2799.html

 

http://www.redco.com/Amphenol-KS3PB-AU.html


Edited by FrozenPanda - 8/10/14 at 8:14pm
post #692 of 700

Ok so I already have 2 of these connectors so I will not need the ones you suggested, but let make sure I'm understanding you correctly, you are suggesting to get the mogami cbale and pull rubber shielding off then feed those four wires through the paracord correct?

post #693 of 700

Yes do that. The cable will be very flexible without the shielding on it. 

 

I find it easiest and quickest to score the rubber insulation with an exacto knife and then peel it off. Then unravel the copper wire wrapping around the wires, and then unravel the paper under that. 

 

The wires are free! 

post #694 of 700
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeenJamin View Post
 

Ok so I already have 2 of these connectors so I will not need the ones you suggested, but let make sure I'm understanding you correctly, you are suggesting to get the mogami cbale and pull rubber shielding off then feed those four wires through the paracord correct?

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by cCasper TFG View Post
 

Yes do that. The cable will be very flexible without the shielding on it. 

 

I find it easiest and quickest to score the rubber insulation with an exacto knife and then peel it off. Then unravel the copper wire wrapping around the wires, and then unravel the paper under that. 

 

The wires are free! 

Yeah you definitely can't pull the out if its any decent length of a cable. You're going to want to take a knife and run it down the length of the cable just deep enough to cut the rubber.

post #695 of 700

Alright new cable is on its way thanks for the help guys!

post #696 of 700

Hey,

 

I'm activly working on this mod.  

 

When I test for connectivity between the inside wires after soldering, my multimeter is reading connectivity.  should the happen?  Im reading around 34 ohms between the connections.

 

looking at it, it doesnt look like I have a solder connection between the connections.

post #697 of 700
Quote:
Originally Posted by Genacc View Post

Hey,

I'm activly working on this mod.  

When I test for connectivity between the inside wires after soldering, my multimeter is reading connectivity.  should the happen?  Im reading around 34 ohms between the connections.

looking at it, it doesnt look like I have a solder connection between the connections.
How do you mean? Are you measuring from channel to channel?

There is an ATH M50 mod thread in the DIY subforum, and a few weeks ago, someone had a short between channels. I put together a post here.

Short answer is that you should see continuity between channels because they share a common ground. If you measure each channel to ground, you should see identical (or close to identical) resistance values.
post #698 of 700
Quote:
Originally Posted by superjawes View Post


How do you mean? Are you measuring from channel to channel?

There is an ATH M50 mod thread in the DIY subforum, and a few weeks ago, someone had a short between channels. I put together a post here.

Short answer is that you should see continuity between channels because they share a common ground. If you measure each channel to ground, you should see identical (or close to identical) resistance values.

 

That's actually what I saw.  Connectivity between all of the different channels.  But a resistance between them.  I desoldered everthing and resoldered it again.  Used a magnifying glass and really checked the connections to ensure the soldered didn't touch.  I finished the Mod last night.  It sounds great and now I need to start making some custom cables.

post #699 of 700

I didn't take any pictures on the inside, unfortunately. Rather than cut the cord, I un-soldered it and replaced the wires. This is my finished limited edition red M50s.

 

 

post #700 of 700

Nice job!

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