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ATH-M50 Removable Cable Mod - Page 41

post #601 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by bugo57 View Post

I gave a link...?
Yeah Sorry I Saw That After And I DIDNT Know How To DELETE The Comment
post #602 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by nulk1 View Post

Yeah Sorry I Saw That After And I DIDNT Know How To DELETE The Comment

Oh, no problem, nevermind... smily_headphones1.gif
post #603 of 797
Can I use a 4 pin mini XLR for this mod or is it too big?
post #604 of 797

Like I said in the DIY questions thread, it's probably going to be too big if you dont want to affect the sound in that cup. You could probably modify an in-line mini xlr connector and mount it to the headphones so it looks like the M50x design, that wouldn't take up any of the inner cup volume. It could look pretty sweet to if you can pull off the mod.

 

post #605 of 797


Use this chassis and jacks... no need to cut the internal case and very minimal in size.
With locking features , which it good to have
post #606 of 797

I wouldn't call that minimal at all, but it does look like a nice jack. If you don't mind having the 3.5mm jack sticking out like that, that would be the best connector to use. I personally like the lower profile outer look.

post #607 of 797
It does sticking out abit for the locking mechanism...on the internal side this chassis doesn't take away much space.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
post #608 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidwyl View Post



Use this chassis and jacks... no need to cut the internal case and very minimal in size.
With locking features , which it good to have

 

I saw this mod before I bought my chassis, but its to expencive and bulky... So at the end I have gone with my chassis and it was cheap, and the cutting was easy because I've used the soldering iron for that and it came out nice and tight, and didn't changed the sound...
So im happy.

post #609 of 797
So what's the best thing to use for this detachable mod?
post #610 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidwyl View Post



Use this chassis and jacks... no need to cut the internal case and very minimal in size.
With locking features , which it good to have

Nicely done, I did a similar mod using a modified inline locking jack.   Like  yours it moves the bulk of the jack outside of the driver casing to minimize the need to remove a bunch of the material inside.

 

The part I used was http://www.markertek.com/Connectors-Adapters/Audio-Adapters/3-5mm-Adapters/Calrad-Electronics/30-297.xhtml

 

As I mentioned, I modified the jack by cutting the threaded barrel portion off to create lock ring.

It hard to explain but when I get my comment count up enough for upload privileges, I will post pictures.

post #611 of 797

Based on all the information in this thread (appreciate all the contributions), I attempted this mod last night. I used the Parts Express jack, and everything was soldered up and working fine until final assembly. Now I'm not getting any sound at all from the right driver. I did a quick continuity check and all seems to be okay (jack to left driver, jack to red/black "passthrough" to the right driver). I've tried the same source, but multiple AUX cables, with the same result. Can someone help me identify the issue and what to check next? Thanks in advance.

 

EDIT - False alarm, loose connection into the source.


Edited by drangel1 - 4/23/14 at 7:28am
post #612 of 797

could you provide a link to that chassis/jack? thanks

post #613 of 797

I don't want to ruin my girlfriend's M50's, so I'm going to ask before doing any rash things.. How do I take off the rubber thing where the 3.5mm female plug is supposed to go?(the one that makes it detachable.)

post #614 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by wolfetan44 View Post

I don't want to ruin my girlfriend's M50's, so I'm going to ask before doing any rash things.. How do I take off the rubber thing where the 3.5mm female plug is supposed to go?(the one that makes it detachable.)

I think you're talking about the rubber grommet where the cable passes through the cup?

If that is the case, it just pulls out along with the cable after you desolder the wires from the driver.

You won't hurt anything by taking it out, but by that point that you remove it, you'll have already desoldered the cable so you'll have already committed to the job. Commit bro, commit.
post #615 of 797
The way I forced myself to do my detachable mod on my first DT770 was cutting the cable. Haha
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