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ATH-M50 Removable Cable Mod - Page 5

post #61 of 689

Hey guys I have a question. Do you think that I will still need to melt down or cut the plastic if I use the "liberty cable 3.5mm Mini Female Chassis Mount"? Or will that not work? What problems may it have? Thanks.

 

*edit

Okay DISREGARD MY PREVIOUS QUESTION.

I was wondering, will this work?

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/718145-REG/Comprehensive_MJS_CM_MJS_CM_Stereo_3_5mm_Female.html

718145.jpg

I noticed a guy at whirlpool forum moded his ATH-M50's and it looked like he didn't need to melt anything or file anything.

http://s1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa405/willytboy/ATH-M50%20Mod/

 

Do you think this works?


Edited by eriktheg - 1/28/12 at 5:55pm
post #62 of 689
Quote:
Originally Posted by scootermafia View Post

 Nice job, but I think this mod would be even easier to do with the aid of a hot glue gun.  



True.

post #63 of 689

I noticed a guy at whirlpool forum moded his ATH-M50's and it looked like he didn't need to melt anything or file anything.

http://s1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa405/willytboy/ATH-M50%20Mod/

 

Do you think this works?



Except for pic 5 of 9 which looks like him melting away the plastic stem that's usually in the way, the other pics don't suggest if he had to melt/file or not. However, looking at the size of the jack he used and that you plan to use I would concur that your options are to melt/file/snip the driver casing and stem like the rest of us, melt/file/snip the driver casing and trim the original hole to make the jack go through at an angle to fit between the stems, or have the jack protrude farthur out of the cup like the OP originally did.

 

post #64 of 689
Does this affect the sound quality at all? And did you just cut/strip the stock wire and jack right out of the headphones? I REALLY want to do this but don't want to affect the sq at all.
post #65 of 689

Technically yes since the stuff has been removed/added in the left cup, but it could be negligible. Folks in other ATH-M50 threads have said things like removing the padding adds bass, which may be the case if you cut out some of the padding to make room for the jack. Also, in this thread improper rewiring could throw off the balance and stereo, if you like that sort of thing. I personally chose to make as little modifications as possible, leaving all padding intact and not desoldering the wires from the driver and they sound the same to me.

 

To remove the stock cable I cut it just outside of the cup, then when I opened the cup I just pulled the cable through so it remained connected to the driver and I could just strip the cut end to solder to the new jack. Not sure what you mean by stock jack (I assume you mean plug), but as you read through the thread you'll see that the stock cable was still used by soldering a plug to the cut-off end.

 

If you're unsure you could get a cheap (< $30) pair of over-the-ear's to try this mod and observe the sound before and after.


Edited by determinedd - 1/31/12 at 11:41am
post #66 of 689

yes, i was going to do this with my sony mdr v150 but they have a cable coming out of each driver. I have previous knowledge of electronics and wires, etc. I did see a picture thought of someone who saved the wire and somehow put another male (i think) jack on the end that the stripped? So under the cushions there are screws and you just unscrew them and the case will come off? Will i even have to cut the plug  out  if i do this? Also, i already have wire strippers, hot glue gun, iron and wire.

post #67 of 689

Oh and by the way, I don't want to make any more modifications that are unnecessary, just so that you can remove the stock plug/jack and insert the other one so that the connector is removable.

post #68 of 689
Quote:
Originally Posted by ncorrigan2014 View Post

So under the cushions there are screws and you just unscrew them and the case will come off? Will i even have to cut the plug  out  if i do this? Also, i already have wire strippers, hot glue gun, iron and wire.


Yes, it's very simple to open and the "plug" sticking out of the cup pops out and the cable slides through it, it's not glued at all. When you read through each of the posts in this thread in detail, multiple times like I did so I wouldn't make any mistakes, you'll see there are at least three different ways this mod was done and you can pick and choose what you think is best for you. Have fun!!
 

 

post #69 of 689

Hey can anyone identify what 3.5 female jack chassis he is using? It would help me if i used that because no heavy modifications are needed.

1fc9e47a_IMG_0133.jpega427bbd5_IMG_0134.jpeg

cd74c3ae_IMG_0136.jpeg9637a142_IMG_0135.jpeg


Edited by eriktheg - 2/3/12 at 8:56pm
post #70 of 689

It looks like this

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103452&clickid=prod_cs

pRS1C-2265992w345.jpg

 

Have fun!

post #71 of 689

Hey!

 

I've been looking at this thread for information about the mod, and after waiting a few days to gather the materials, I did it! (Thanks alot guys who posted some info on how to do it!)

 

I've successfully modded my Allen & Heath Zone XD-53! :)

 

(The coiled cable was bothering me for portable use, since I have an Ipod Nano 6th gen, I was having too much cable to deal with in my pocket... :S)

 

Also, when I opened the housing of the headphones, I realized that I had alot of room do install the jack, almost looks like Allen & Heath originally designed it to house an audio jack!

 

EDIT: Yes indeed, they just released the XD2-53, which now has a removable cable... -_-"

 

 

 

DSC_4649.jpg

 

DSC_4659.jpg

 

DSC_4658.jpg

 

 

DSC_4656.jpg

 

 

BTW: I'm currently waiting on an AIAIAI Straight cable to replace the coiled stock one! (should get it tomorrow)

 

PS: Don't get the Square audio jack, it sucks! (doesn't require alot of force to pull the plug out of it...), if you are going to do the mod, I highly suggest getting the Lumberg one!

 

PPS: for newbies like me who dont know know which color is Left, Right or common ground on their headphones, when I cut the cable, I used an OhmMeter to help me determine where the current was passing for each wire!

 


Edited by Gunny McSmith - 2/19/12 at 6:40am
post #72 of 689

hey man what chassis did you use? it looks really slick and nice i wanna get it and do this mod to my m50s

post #73 of 689

Does anyone know wheRe I can get a tutorial or something for this?

Im kind of a noob at this, and wouldn't really know what to do

post #74 of 689

I used the Lumberg chassis (see link)

 

http://canada.newark.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=24M4867

 

 

As for a tutorial, its fairly simple, just cut the wire, strip them, and connect to the right position, and voila you are done!

 

post #75 of 689

The thing is, I don't have a soldering iron, and I think I would mess up with the hole and such, and don't know what the right position IS.

Is there like a place I could send these into, or bring it to?

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