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ATH-M50 Removable Cable Mod - Page 36

post #526 of 797

I had the same problem. Took me a while to figure it out. The wires already in the headphones don't make good connections. They have an enamel coating, don't take solder well, fray, and are simply just terrible. I removed the wires connected to the driver (desoldered) and replaced them with some spare wires I had lying around, and it worked perfectly. Don't worry; chances are the headphones still work fine and you just need to do some troubleshooting. You have the whole forum's help, too, if you need it.

post #527 of 797
Is there any good recommendation ? Where can I purchase the replacement cAbles? Preferably able to ship to Singapore.
post #528 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeremyxGch View Post

Is there any good recommendation ? Where can I purchase the replacement cAbles? Preferably able to ship to Singapore.
Any speaker cable will do the job. Just get it in any electronic store .
The original cable is abit hard to solder. What I did was burn cable tip with lighter and clean up the tip. It does make it easier to solder..

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
post #529 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidwyl View Post

That two pillar sticking out can easily be cut off.
not sure that socket u bought can fit in without cutting the casing or not.. u need to try it out.
the one im using is this
http://uk.farnell.com/lumberg/1502-04/connector-3-5mm-phono-jack-3pole/dp/2101778 (with locking mechanism)
http://uk.farnell.com/lumberg/1532-05/connector-plug-3-5mm-3pole/dp/2101776?MER=en-me-pd-r2-acce-con
(from lumberg as well)
can fit in the case nicely without the need to cut the casing (just snatch off that 2 pillar)smily_headphones1.gif

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
thanks man. I considered buying that. But the shipping to Singapore is expensive and I gotta wait very long. And if im not wrong the hole has to be filed.. Im quite a noob so I think I would just stick to the one I bought. Thanks anyway!
post #530 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidwyl View Post

Any speaker cable will do the job. Just get it in any electronic store .
The original cable is abit hard to solder. What I did was burn cable tip with lighter and clean up the tip. It does make it easier to solder..

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
alright. I shall check out the stores tonight. Any cable will do right? Meaning the cable will also have red green and black?
post #531 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeremyxGch View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by davidwyl View Post

That two pillar sticking out can easily be cut off.
not sure that socket u bought can fit in without cutting the casing or not.. u need to try it out.
the one im using is this
http://uk.farnell.com/lumberg/1502-04/connector-3-5mm-phono-jack-3pole/dp/2101778 (with locking mechanism)
http://uk.farnell.com/lumberg/1532-05/connector-plug-3-5mm-3pole/dp/2101776?MER=en-me-pd-r2-acce-con
(from lumberg as well)
can fit in the case nicely without the need to cut the casing (just snatch off that 2 pillar)smily_headphones1.gif

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
thanks man. I considered buying that. But the shipping to Singapore is expensive and I gotta wait very long. And if im not wrong the hole has to be filed.. Im quite a noob so I think I would just stick to the one I bought. Thanks anyway!
Need to files the hole abit. But fit perfectly after that. With lock definitely good to have.
You can get it from eBay as well. Arrive about 2weeks.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
post #532 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeremyxGch View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by davidwyl View Post

Any speaker cable will do the job. Just get it in any electronic store .
The original cable is abit hard to solder. What I did was burn cable tip with lighter and clean up the tip. It does make it easier to solder..

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
alright. I shall check out the stores tonight. Any cable will do right? Meaning the cable will also have red green and black?
Get any 3.5mm audio extension cable.. And cut it open . Color doesn't matter, can put any color as long as u know where connect to where..

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
post #533 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidwyl View Post

Need to files the hole abit. But fit perfectly after that. With lock definitely good to have.
You can get it from eBay as well. Arrive about 2weeks.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
W
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidwyl View Post

Need to files the hole abit. But fit perfectly after that. With lock definitely good to have.
You can get it from eBay as well. Arrive about 2weeks.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk[/quote

Well I shall check it out. What tool do I use to file a hole btw? I dont have much tools
post #534 of 797
Okay, thanks alot. I will post pics and update u guys again if I need help! Shall try it tonight
post #535 of 797


Hey!! I bought a 3.5mm male to female jack. So heres the inner. I suppose the white and red will be in the L/R and the colourless will be the -/+?
Im planning to use this cable as my mod. So im not using a chassis.
post #536 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeremyxGch View Post

 

Why would you rather this ˄ than a chassis?

post #537 of 797
I would rather use a chassis. But for now I will use this. Till my chassis comes. Im combining it with other orders. Another reason will be less trouble.
post #538 of 797



Im pretty disappointed because I think I have damaged the driver. Attached the pics. Have a look. I soldered the cables back on but it still doesnt work. No sound. Sigh. Now idk what to do..
post #539 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeremyxGch View Post




Im pretty disappointed because I think I have damaged the driver. Attached the pics. Have a look. I soldered the cables back on but it still doesnt work. No sound. Sigh. Now idk what to do..

It looks like your solder points are connected, so it's probably not damaged. The voice coil wires for the driver are up where the grey stuff is. 

post #540 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeremyxGch View Post




Im pretty disappointed because I think I have damaged the driver. Attached the pics. Have a look. I soldered the cables back on but it still doesnt work. No sound. Sigh. Now idk what to do..

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by cCasper TFG View Post
 

It looks like your solder points are connected, so it's probably not damaged. The voice coil wires for the driver are up where the grey stuff is. 

 

I'm with cCasper on this one. There appears to be a bridge between the points. I'd clean up your solder work.

First practice soldering a little more until you feel really confident that you can get a clean joint with minimal heat/time of contact. 

Get some deosoldering wick and clean up the contacts. Place a little flux on the contacts and put a very small layer of solder on them. Tin your wires and resolder to the driver. Use as little solder as necessary to make a clean connection.

 

Get a second person to help if it seems difficult to hold everything in place by yourself. If you have to heat the contact point for more than a few seconds, it's probably too long. Double check your temperatures and the melting point of your solder. 

 

Don't dismay, It'll work out :beyersmile:

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