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ATH-M50 Removable Cable Mod - Page 35

post #511 of 797

Im sure it would sound like all bluetooth audio links: bad. But for $29 and from amazon why not just buy it and try it. You can return anything to amazon with no hassle. Youd lose shipping costs at most.

post #512 of 797

That looks like a very clean MOD. Do you have a Step-by-Step on how you did it?

post #513 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMcgician View Post

Has anyone tried to plug a Bluetooth receiver in theirs post modding? If so how is the quality / volume? I was thinking about getting something like 

http://www.amazon.com/GOgroove-BlueGate-Bluetooth-Technology-Headphones/dp/B00727FE5U/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1392221556&sr=8-11&keywords=bluetooth+receiver

that and sticking it to the side of the headphones; but I'm hesitating because I don't know what the sound will be like.

Any a2dp Bluetooth adapter will not have great sound...those with AptX will have a better sound quality (not all phone support aptx)...
One more issue with Bluetooth receiver adapter is the power deliver to the headphone is low. Listen in low volume will be fine, listen in high volume, the adapter might not have enough power to drive the headphone therefore lower the sound quality.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
post #514 of 797

I just finished the mod, and it went generally very well. I had difficulty with the preinstalled wires (probably because of the enamel), but it worked when I desoldered them and attached my own.

I was looking to buy or make cable(s); the stock cable works fine, but it's often too long and I want options. Do you guys have recommendations? I was considering using the Gotham GAC-3 to make cables, but I thought I would ask the forum first.

Thanks!

post #515 of 797

I've bought GAC-3 twice, the first batch I had was amazingly soft supple and nice, the second was disappointing compared to the first. Either way, at 1/4" it's way too big to make a good headphone cable. You'll want something smaller like a Mogami W2893 or even better W3031.

post #516 of 797

About the GAC, I'm shocked that a mass produced product like that would be as inconsistent as you described.

I see what you mean about the thickness. I just looked at the W3031, and it appears to have only two wires. Wouldn't that make it mono or one-sided? Sorry, I'm kind of new to this diy area, nonetheless diy in general.

post #517 of 797

The braided shield is used as a ground for headphones generally. The benefit there is the shield is usually much larger than the conductors in gauge, looking at the specs W3031 has a shield that has 6 times more same size strands than each conductor.

 

I prefer braided shields versus served such as GAC-3 or W2697 because the spiraled served shield sometimes gets twisted wrong when handling the cable. GAC-3 has counter wrapped layers of shield so it's not really an issue, but the stuff is thick.

post #518 of 797

Thanks for your advice. I think I'll use the W3031 with Amphenol KS3PB-AU connectors, unless you have a recommendation  for a different plug. How do I keep the shield/ground off of the other connectors in the plug? Is there anything else I need to know before I go ahead and make the cables?

post #519 of 797

Make sure you find the connector at $2 or so and not $7. Some places overcharge for them.

 

Here's a link to how to assemble Profi connectors.

 

http://www.neutrik.us/zoolu-website/media/download/169/Assembly+Instruction+-+Profi

 

You'll gather the shield wires and twist them to a single bundle, then separate the two inner conductors wire the white to the center pin (tip) wire red to the ring connector and wire the shield to the ground lug. Sometimes you can use head shrink to cover the individual joints so nothing shorts. Make sure you cut any stray strands that may bridge any conductors.

post #520 of 797

Hi there. I own a ATH-M50RD Too!

Planning to do the mod , roughly know what to do . 

Im wondering how do u guys break off the plastic part to make space for the Chassis?

What tool do i use? I opened up and see the plastic , its pretty hard , and u seem to did a great job.

 

Heres the part i bought

http://singapore.rs-online.com/web/p/jack-trs-connectors/6291325/ (From Lumberg)

 

:)

post #521 of 797

Lol my M50's removable cable mod looks like ****. Jack is coming out at an angle and sticks out a lot and it's glued in place with epoxy for plane parts (some grey goop)  Hardly use them but when I do, everyone knows it's a DIY mod.

 

In before someone kicks them self in the head for not buying the New M50x.

 

I bought my M50s a year and a half ago I think.

post #522 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeremyxGch View Post

Hi there. I own a ATH-M50RD Too!
Planning to do the mod , roughly know what to do . 
Im wondering how do u guys break off the plastic part to make space for the Chassis?
What tool do i use? I opened up and see the plastic , its pretty hard , and u seem to did a great job.

Heres the part i bought
http://singapore.rs-online.com/web/p/jack-trs-connectors/6291325/ (From Lumberg)

smily_headphones1.gif

The plastic bit may seem tough, but it comes off really easily. Just grip it with pliers and bend it to the side. It'll snap right off.
post #523 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by otebear View Post

The plastic bit may seem tough, but it comes off really easily. Just grip it with pliers and bend it to the side. It'll snap right off.
Alright. I shall try it tonight. Thanks !
post #524 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by JeremyxGch View Post

Hi there. I own a ATH-M50RD Too!

Planning to do the mod , roughly know what to do . 

Im wondering how do u guys break off the plastic part to make space for the Chassis?

What tool do i use? I opened up and see the plastic , its pretty hard , and u seem to did a great job.

 

Heres the part i bought

http://singapore.rs-online.com/web/p/jack-trs-connectors/6291325/ (From Lumberg)

 

:)

That two pillar sticking out can easily be cut off.
not sure that socket u bought can fit in without cutting the casing or not.. u need to try it out.
the one im using is this
http://uk.farnell.com/lumberg/1502-04/connector-3-5mm-phono-jack-3pole/dp/2101778 (with locking mechanism)
http://uk.farnell.com/lumberg/1532-05/connector-plug-3-5mm-3pole/dp/2101776?MER=en-me-pd-r2-acce-con
(from lumberg as well)
can fit in the case nicely without the need to cut the casing (just snatch off that 2 pillar)smily_headphones1.gif

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
Edited by davidwyl - 2/26/14 at 5:07am
post #525 of 797
Im pretty sad right now because I think I screwed up my headphones.. Right after I snaped off the plastic, the sound turned bad. I realised its the audio cable thats connected to the driver. I resolder it but it got worse , cant seem to solder it back. And now the part looks ****. Idk if its still working if I buy a new cable and solder it.. What should I do?
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