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ATH-M50 Removable Cable Mod - Page 33

post #481 of 797

I ordered a pair of ATH-M50s last week and just got around to opening them up today and doing the detachable cable mod to them. I only bought these to sell (I had some Amazon credit that I wanted in my PayPal account instead of stuck on Amazon).

 

While I had them opened up for the detachable cable mod, I put Dynamat on the inside of the cup and cut a hold in the foam padding that's normally against the back of the cup. I had thought about doing this the last time I had some M50's but ended up not doing it. It made the mids come out a little more, there is actually MORE Bass, and more treble. I did that mod to the left cup before I did it to the right cup to see if I could hear a difference, and to decide if I wanted to reverse it or not. I liked what I heard and did the right cup as well (obviously Haha). If anyone has some M50s I HIGHLY recommend you try this, keep the padding you cut out just in case you want to put it back.

 

These headphones are for sale here in our classifieds.

LINK: http://www.head-fi.org/t/701738/brand-new-ath-m50s-w-detachable-cable-mod-4-foot-straight-cable

 

 

BTW the hot glue strings have been removed Haha

post #482 of 797
Good jobs for everyone who take their time and efford to do detachable cable mods and share their info.
For those who still scare or worry to try, now u can get detachable cable m50 (ath-m50x)

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
post #483 of 797
post #484 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidwyl View Post

ATH-M50x
http://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR86

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk

 

Yeah, but it's $170, and you will HAVE to use the stock cable, you wont be able to interchange whatever cable you want.


Edited by PETEREK - 1/25/14 at 3:12am
post #485 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by cCasper TFG View Post

Yeah, but it's $170, and you will HAVE to use the stock cable, you wont be able to interchange whatever cable you want.
That's the same connector the Sennheiser HD-598 and HD-558 cans use. There are plenty of cheap aftermarket cables already out there with this connector including ones with iPhone controls but there is only one connector currently being made that I know of to make your own cable and that's sold by luna shops.
post #486 of 797

holy balls, it's finally here... It took Audio Technica literally more than 10 years to realize we need detachable cables.. so the babe is called M50x huh, i guess better now than never.. unfortunately the BoomPro mic from V-Moda that use won't fit on it right off the bat but fortunately anything could fit just by using an adapter..

Would be cool to see the internals of this m50x tho and it compare it with the standard one, just to see the design changes.

btw, does somebody know where i could get one of these passthrough adapters made for the Sennheiser 518 558 and 598? I want one that has a 3.5mm entrance at its bottom, so in practice it would function only as a pass through, with the bonus of being being able to plug any universal 3.5mm jack on it of course.

As pointed out by ben_r_ Lunashops has one adapter, but it's a DYI one, you have to make your own cable with it, whereas the one i want has to have an universal 3.5mm entrance at its bottom to maximize compatibility.


Edited by XcaninoX - 1/25/14 at 9:52am
post #487 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by XcaninoX View Post
 

holy balls, it's finally here... It took Audio Technica literally more than 10 years to realize we need detachable cables.. so the babe is called M50x huh, i guess better now than never.. unfortunately the BoomPro mic from V-Moda that use won't fit on it right off the bat but fortunately anything could fit just by using an adapter..

Would be cool to see the internals of this m50x tho and it compare it with the standard one, just to see the design changes.

btw, does somebody know where i could get one of these passthrough adapters made for the Sennheiser 518 558 and 598? I want one that has a 3.5mm entrance at its bottom, so in practice it would function only as a pass through, with the bonus of being being able to plug any universal 3.5mm jack on it of course.

As pointed out by ben_r_ Lunashops has one adapter, but it's a DYI one, you have to make your own cable with it, whereas the one i want has to have an universal 3.5mm entrance at its bottom to maximize compatibility.


So youre looking for the same locking setup as the HD-598 and this new M50X but in a 3.5mm TRS instead of the 2.5mm TRS they use?

post #488 of 797

So I got these headphones about 2 weeks ago, I love them but cable could be shorter.  So what I am wondering is what I need for this project.  I have soldering skills, but I normal just use things like wires and connectors laying around my house.  I am wondering what wire I am going to want to get to replace the enamel wire, that is still high quality.  Also I am leaning towards the mini XLR connector, where could I get that?  Finally if I go the 3.5mm route, where would I get quality cable to make a detachable cord and for the plugs and jacks that could lock like the original headphones?  

 

Thanks!! 

post #489 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by Echochrome4 View Post
 

So I got these headphones about 2 weeks ago, I love them but cable could be shorter.  So what I am wondering is what I need for this project.  I have soldering skills, but I normal just use things like wires and connectors laying around my house.  I am wondering what wire I am going to want to get to replace the enamel wire, that is still high quality.  Also I am leaning towards the mini XLR connector, where could I get that?  Finally if I go the 3.5mm route, where would I get quality cable to make a detachable cord and for the plugs and jacks that could lock like the original headphones?  

 

Thanks!! 


All your answers and more are in this thread. Give a good read through from start to finish.

post #490 of 797
Alternatively, you can simply braid your current cable to be shorter. There is a video on YouTube that's easy to find with a quick search.
post #491 of 797
Well I have read through the whole thing, I don't know where it talks about wire to use. What I'm wanting to know are what are the best brands of wire, connectors, jacks that I can buy and where I could buy them. I would like to browse their sites and find the jacks and cables myself I just don't know what to go to. Also where would I get the cable sleeving for the new wire?
post #492 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by Echochrome4 View Post

Well I have read through the whole thing, I don't know where it talks about wire to use. What I'm wanting to know are what are the best brands of wire, connectors, jacks that I can buy and where I could buy them. I would like to browse their sites and find the jacks and cables myself I just don't know what to go to. Also where would I get the cable sleeving for the new wire?

 

http://www.head-fi.org/t/676402/diy-cable-questions-and-comments-thread

 

Probably the best place you could ask your questions concerning DIY cable/connector questions of any kind. Lots of folks willing to help. 

 

One of the most important questions that you need to answer first is your price range. That will determine what parts are really available to you.

 

Sticking with a simple Canare or Mogami quad cable. I personally like the Mogami 2893 or Canare L-4E5C which are the smaller versions of their big brothers. I strip off the outer black PVC and shielding which leaves just the twisted wires. I sleeve those wires in 550 paracord from SupplyCaptain.com or other vendors. You end up with a very light/flexible cable that sounds great. 

 

http://www.redco.com/Bulk-Quad-Microphone-Cable/  you can check them out in the link.

 

There are other places to buy from: markertek , Parts-express , lunashops, tons of cable maker's DIY offerings. You'll see a lot listed in the questions thread. 

post #493 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakahah View Post
 

 

http://www.head-fi.org/t/676402/diy-cable-questions-and-comments-thread

 

Probably the best place you could ask your questions concerning DIY cable/connector questions of any kind. Lots of folks willing to help. 

 

One of the most important questions that you need to answer first is your price range. That will determine what parts are really available to you.

 

Sticking with a simple Canare or Mogami quad cable. I personally like the Mogami 2893 or Canare L-4E5C which are the smaller versions of their big brothers. I strip off the outer black PVC and shielding which leaves just the twisted wires. I sleeve those wires in 550 paracord from SupplyCaptain.com or other vendors. You end up with a very light/flexible cable that sounds great. 

 

http://www.redco.com/Bulk-Quad-Microphone-Cable/  you can check them out in the link.

 

There are other places to buy from: markertek , Parts-express , lunashops, tons of cable maker's DIY offerings. You'll see a lot listed in the questions thread. 

So would Mogami 2893 work well in replacing the enamel wires inside the headphones?  Also it is a quad cable, and a 3.5mm jack has 3 connectors, so would I just remove 1 strand of the cable?  And I haven't worked with sound cables at all but what is the non insulated copper wire for, and will I be using in in my case or is that used for other things? Like in this picture:  W2893-01.JPG

post #494 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by Echochrome4 View Post
 

So would Mogami 2893 work well in replacing the enamel wires inside the headphones?  Also it is a quad cable, and a 3.5mm jack has 3 connectors, so would I just remove 1 strand of the cable?  And I haven't worked with sound cables at all but what is the non insulated copper wire for, and will I be using in in my case or is that used for other things? Like in this picture:  W2893-01.JPG

 

You can use the quad cable for both the inside for replacing the enameled wires as well as making a new cable for the m50s.

 

There are 4 wires in the quad and you can choose to use them all or simply remove one if that is your preferences for a slightly lighter cable. If you keep all 4, you use 2 of them for ground, and the other two are used for L(tip) and R(ring) channels. 

 

The non-insulated copper is the shielding. It is woven on the inside but is shown like that just so the buyer knows it has copper shielding inside. You can choose to keep the cable as is with pvc insulation, shielding, cotton strands as is for your cable or simply strip it down to the 4 wires. Those 4 wires are twisted together as I mentioned above. You can remove the thick outer pvc of the cable, then the copper shielding and be left with just the twisted wires. That is the way I prefer. If you live in an area with unusually high RFI or a house filled with unusually high EMI then you might want to keep the cable as is. For 99% of us, removing the shielding is just fine. 

 

In the picture below you can see where I've stripped off the black pvc insulation, removed the copper shielding (now tied in a bundle), left the cotton/paper insulation on the twisted wires to help with microphonics, added a little electrical tape on the end to hold the paper/cotton in place for sleeving, and finally sleeved it in 'Starry Night' 550 paracord. I placed an unstripped cable below it for comparison. Hopefully this helps. 

 

post #495 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakahah View Post
 

 

You can use the quad cable for both the inside for replacing the enameled wires as well as making a new cable for the m50s.

 

There are 4 wires in the quad and you can choose to use them all or simply remove one if that is your preferences for a slightly lighter cable. If you keep all 4, you use 2 of them for ground, and the other two are used for L(tip) and R(ring) channels. 

 

The non-insulated copper is the shielding. It is woven on the inside but is shown like that just so the buyer knows it has copper shielding inside. You can choose to keep the cable as is with pvc insulation, shielding, cotton strands as is for your cable or simply strip it down to the 4 wires. Those 4 wires are twisted together as I mentioned above. You can remove the thick outer pvc of the cable, then the copper shielding and be left with just the twisted wires. That is the way I prefer. If you live in an area with unusually high RFI or a house filled with unusually high EMI then you might want to keep the cable as is. For 99% of us, removing the shielding is just fine. 

 

In the picture below you can see where I've stripped off the black pvc insulation, removed the copper shielding (now tied in a bundle), left the cotton/paper insulation on the twisted wires to help with microphonics, added a little electrical tape on the end to hold the paper/cotton in place for sleeving, and finally sleeved it in 'Starry Night' 550 paracord. I placed an unstripped cable below it for comparison. Hopefully this helps. 

 

Yes, that help a lot!  Now I just need to choose whether I want to use Mini-XLR or a locking 3.5mm jack and plug.  Then I will order parts and start modding!! 

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