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ATH-M50 Removable Cable Mod - Page 32

post #466 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by White Lotus View Post
 

I used the velour pads for a while, as well as stock. But the pads that win it for me:

The brainwavz HM5/FischerFA003 pads. In my opinion, far more comfortable than stock.

 


(Obviously, they are the ones on the right)

Forgot to quote.....Hey white lotus. How good do the HM5 pads fit on the m50's? And do your ears still touch the inside?

post #467 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by CarbonFlux View Post
 

Is there a way that we could still use the cable that we cut off? 
Like a headphone jack head that we could attach it to? 

I suppose you can re-terminate that with a 3.5mm jack on the side you cut off and you'd be good to go

post #468 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by slntdth93 View Post
 

I suppose you can re-terminate that with a 3.5mm jack on the side you cut off and you'd be good to go

Do you know what the head of a 3.5 mm jack would be called? I have no luck on finding it. 

post #469 of 797
3.5mm connector.
post #470 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by cCasper TFG View Post

3.5mm connector.
I found out that its called a TRS Solder Plug
post #471 of 797
That is another name for it, but it is also a 3.5mm connector.
post #472 of 797

I just performed the mod, one of my first time soldering and spent almost the whole day in frustration :( My first buggaboo was accidentally yanking the wires from the driver. So the whole day was spent trying to solder and resolder and i just had my first success (sort of) the headphones work left and right, but i only hear in mono. I've been having the worst week and today topped it off lol, my headphones are potentially broke, and i stabbed my self in the thumb about a 1/4 inch deep with my xacto and also stabbed my arm the complete length of the same blade lol. I'm attaching some pics, I believe the problem may be the left green solder to the panel mount as i believe i may have missed the whole because i accidently soldered over it and I am in lack of solder wick. Is that a viable first thing to check out? Also I noticed a substantial decrease in sound quality as well as some static after the mod. Would this be caused by the mono and should i electrical tape things up to prevent interference? Do you notice any other issues? Please help, and if you cant is there anyway that the warranty covers this or i could get a replacement? Also will soundprofessionals possibly be able to fix it if I can't? Sorry for so many questions but I am desperate and very upset now ;( Any help would be appreciated thank you very much.

post #473 of 797

apparently i cant post pics :(

post #474 of 797
Sounds brutal man.

My experience was totally different. I was watching some anime at 1am and just decided to mod mine. Here are some late night cell pics from an hour later. It was quick and painless for me.




post #475 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakahah View Post

Sounds brutal man.

My experience was totally different. I was watching some anime at 1am and just decided to mod mine. Here are some late night cell pics from an hour later. It was quick and painless for me.

Nicely done sir. I also used Canare wire for the mod. 

post #476 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by cCasper TFG View Post
 

Nicely done sir. I also used Canare wire for the mod. 

 

Thank you. Can't really beat Canare for the price. Just took one wire out of the twist from the 6 or so inches I cut. 

 

For some reason I had built up doing it in my mind as something that would be time consuming. 

 

It took me as much time setting up and breaking down my equipment as it did the actual modding. 

 

I did remove one of the support pegs. Just used some cheap $5 flush cuts and it came off clean and easy. That was all the modification I had to do. 

 

Decided to actually use my solder sucker this time instead of wick to avoid additional heat- worked like a charm. 

post #477 of 797
Quote:
Originally Posted by meizumintyboi View Post

Well no one helped me here... So I went out and did it myself:



 



My M50 mod and DIY Neutrik terminated cables:



ATH-M50 Removable Neutrik



 



I used the Lumberg 3.5mm female chassis for the left ear cup hole, which I made bigger by using a file.



Lumberg 3.5mm female chassis



Works really well, the Lumberg chassis has a good lock onto the 3.5mm plug and doesn't come out unless a considerable amount of force is used.



I filled in the gaps with clear silicone, after about 12 hours it set, and holds the chassis strongly in place with some flex when inserting/removing cables.



You didn't have to file out the original hole, the lumber fits through the stock hole as is, you just had to remove the nut and then slip it through the hole and then screw the nut back on.
post #478 of 797

Is there any way to search if anyone in Vancouver, Canada would be able to do this mod for me?

post #479 of 797
Not really. You can post asking here or in the For Sale area maybe and find someone that way.

If you were CONUS, I would offer.
post #480 of 797

The worst thing about the M50's is the enameled wire, if you replace it the task is pretty easy.

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