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ATH-M50 Removable Cable Mod - Page 4

post #46 of 797

I recently attempted this mod and for some reason, I cannot get equal volume out of both sides. I have resoldered many times, always getting more volume from my right side. I have checked my connections many times, all is exactly as before, except I now have an output jack where the cable was. I cannot figure this out and I'm afraid my brand new cans are ruined! Please help!



post #47 of 797

Ok, I've had some time to play around with it and it turns out that when directly connected to an audio soure, the right driver is louder than the left. How did this happen?

post #48 of 797

Need more info, like a picture of the inside of the left can. From what you're saying it just sounds like the prong connecting the left wire from the jack is not a clean connection. Or the inside of the jack has some defect.

post #49 of 797

Well first off, I am using a radioshack stereo audio jack, the black box shaped one. I haven't soldered anything on the left or right can, only the three wires.


Here is what I have done, it's all I have done actually. I only cut off the wire, and soldered on the corresponding wires to the jack. This picture is from my first try, I later re-did the soldering because I did not think the connections were strong enough. 


I know my connections were strong the second time because when I plugged in an audio source into the jack, I could get perfect audio in other headphones by manually contacting the wires from the jack to the headphones jack. The channels were also correct. 


I'm confused as to how such a simple process damaged my headphones so much, I would say the volume is nearly twice as loud in my right side as my left. I just cut and soldered, never touching the inside components. I have done this in the past with other cans, but this one has stumped me.


Thanks for all the help!

post #50 of 797

It's likely that the "quiet" driver is out of phase.  Try reversing the two wires connected to it.  It's easy to get them mixed up.  

post #51 of 797

I wish that were the problem, but after trying this, and even after connecting the original chord, I still have this issue.

post #52 of 797

Lots of soldering irons run too hot for this sort of work.  When you desoldered the wires, if you took too long to do it, the heat on the solder pad travels up the wire to the voice coils and before you know it, your driver is a crispy critter.  At least you didn't mod HD800s...

post #53 of 797

That could be the issue, I used a 15 watt iron. And great point about the HD800s. Is there any way to avoid this in the future?

post #54 of 797

doubt that, 15w is pretty tame. I still don't see a picture in your post. Read my post on page three. The boxy types of jack suck.


Does this mean that the problem is unfixable? Couldn't he just replace the wire running from the left speaker to the right and be okay?

Originally Posted by scootermafia View Post

Lots of soldering irons run too hot for this sort of work.  When you desoldered the wires, if you took too long to do it, the heat on the solder pad travels up the wire to the voice coils and before you know it, your driver is a crispy critter.  At least you didn't mod HD800s...


Edited by jadawgis732 - 12/28/11 at 12:56pm
post #55 of 797

I agree the jacks are low quality (which sucks cause they fit perfectly). But as stated earlier, I know my connections from the jack to the wires are strong and in working order. Why would I have to rewire anything inside the cans, the problem existed before I ever touched any of it. Therefore I know the problem is not in the internal connections.

post #56 of 797

Just wanted to let people know that the DT250 Pads are awesome! So comfy, and don't impede the jack's connection.

Plus no sweaty ears. I hate sweaty ears. Here are pics, which I did go overboard taking.




post #57 of 797

To all those who came before me...who inspired me to not only buy the cans, but to immediately mod them....thank you!


So, I'll start by saying that I bombed the first try, almost giving up in hopes to salvage what I had. (Wrong type of solder and old iron were to blame.) But, with a little perseverance, creativity and the grace of God I did it. Here's my pictorial with extra info so that you get it on the first try!



First, here are the tools I used (plus wet sponge in bowl). There are good videos on youtube to give you good techniques for soldering, especially tinning the wires! That's a 15W/30W switchable iron, and I kept it on 30W.

the tools (plus wet sponge in bowl)



Initially I went with some thick solder I had lying around, then I remembered I had some good stuff along with a fresh tip for my iron at home, and it worked perfectly!

the perfect solder




I went at it....and here's the result. If at first you don't succeed.... :-)

solder complete




Here's what I did to keep the wires from breaking off the driver while I stripped and soldered. Yup, that's a rubber band. I also snipped out the section where the jack will hit the driver enclosure and left the foam pad intact.

rubber band and cut-out




When I initially played around with the fit of the jack and tightened the ring nut on with pliers, I noticed when I plugged then unplugged a cable, the slightest clockwise twist would cause the jack to break free and spin. NOT GOOD!! So, initially I thought to use a peice of the removed sheath/plug to snug up the space around the jack in the hole, but instead went with a folded peice of electrical tape (THREE (3) LAYERS WAS PERFECT) SUPER GLUED around the jack. I then took the cutout rubber ring, split it, and glued it into the cup to help support the jack. I also placed electrical tape where the foam pad around the driver and in the cup will hit the jack's soldered connections.

sheath/plug intactsheath/plug cutfolded tape

glued cutoutglued cutout open







I ended up fully opening the rubber cutout, adding super glue and placing the jack inside it as I slid it into the hole. I also put super glue around the tape on the jack (already super glued on) before inserting into the hole. After GINGERLY ADJUSTING WIRES to close the can, I then added super glue around the outside ring before screwing on the ring nut and used pliers to tighten.





I'm pleased with the result! Also to note, I kept an audio source plugged in most of the time after soldering to make sure nothing went out!!


Edited by determinedd - 1/20/12 at 6:42pm
post #58 of 797

Does anyone do this mod for a fee with good reviews from other members?

post #59 of 797

 Nice job, but I think this mod would be even easier to do with the aid of a hot glue gun.  

post #60 of 797

Does anyone know hot to open ATH-M50's jack? I've tried to unscrew it but I find it may have a connection with these little holes on both sides of the plug.

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