Depends on how the female jack in the cup is wired. It could be that the cable is wired backwards instead. Some handiwork on your own part would be simple desolder/resolder just to switch left and right around.
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ATH-M50 Removable Cable Mod - Page 29post #421 of 68211/17/13 at 8:49pm
Gear mentioned in this thread:post #422 of 68211/18/13 at 1:30amQuote:
If yes, tell the people you bought it from. I'm sure they would be more than happy to sort you out.post #423 of 68211/18/13 at 7:50amQuote:
Yea seriously. I did talk to sound professional customer service a long time ago but I can't recall of I had to pay for the shipping cost. However the whole shipping process and waiting was too much of a hassle for me so I didn't do it. I'll try it again just because I guess I have time now.post #424 of 68211/18/13 at 8:00amQuote:
+1post #425 of 68211/18/13 at 7:00pmpost #426 of 68211/27/13 at 6:52am
i am doing the mod and i using canare L-4E6S Cable and i have there the grey cable (shield) that going to grund (middle tunnel)
and i joined the two white cables toghter and also the blue cables but i dont know which side the white goes and which side the blue goes.
blue for the left side and white for the right?
picture:post #427 of 68211/27/13 at 7:14am
It doesn't really matter how you do it but for the sake of explaining this, do it the way I wrote in the picture. I'm assuming you don't have a multimeter to determine which is left and right, so your left and right may get switched.post #428 of 68211/27/13 at 8:52amQuote:
I have a question for all of you guys, since the right thing to do is use new wire (one that can be easily soldered), what do you guys do with the old cable? the one that you unsoldered from the headphone? re-use it or throw it away?
Bcuz my friend told me it is extremely hard to solder this enameled wires making it so hard that doesn't worth the time spent, better off buying a new one, but my point is that i would like to use the coiled cable, which is quite expensive if bought separately.
So i guess my question is, do you solder a plug on the cable that you have previously unsoldered from the headphone, even if it is a hard task, or do you just use a new one? Btw, by you, i mean all you guys in general..post #429 of 68211/27/13 at 10:01amYou can solder a 3.5mm jack on the end of it, it's just more of a pain to do it on enameled wire. I did it on a pair of M50s for a user in this thread and it turned out fine, but it will be more difficult for a soldering noon. You really have to get to the bare wire. If you don't think you can do that, just use the solders that were used on the driver on the jack. Those will make a good connection.post #430 of 68211/27/13 at 7:41pmpost #431 of 68211/27/13 at 10:03pm
It isn't meant to be opened up, so it's probably glued together. Just order a 3.5mm jack and use it. They're pretty cheap. Rean (Neutrik) are simple to use, you can get them pretty cheap off eBay. Radio Shack sells them too if you dont want to wait for shipping.post #432 of 68211/28/13 at 5:47amQuote:
Alright thanks man. Any chance you could post a link to one? I can't tell the difference between a bad one and a decent quality one.
Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalkpost #433 of 68211/28/13 at 6:04ampost #434 of 68211/28/13 at 6:10amQuote:Originally Posted by cCasper TFG
I would go with these.
Great connectors. Easy to use. Good solder points. Nice, subtle look, and a brand name to back it up.Return Home
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