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ATH-M50 Removable Cable Mod - Page 28

post #406 of 700
jezz that's true

Edited by XcaninoX - 11/10/13 at 5:57pm
post #407 of 700
Yeah but why pay $180 for it. That's pretty steep. You can have someone here do it for pretty cheap. You can get the headphones new on Amazon for $99 and I've modded these for $35 including shipping (plug).
post #408 of 700

3.5mm female socket with locking

http://www.ebay.com.my/itm/200768470901?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

3.5mm male plug with locking

http://www.ebay.com.my/itm/180882568016?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

 

with these can easily turn the non-detachable to detachable.

 

these come with locking mechanisms, it is something good to have :)


Edited by davidwyl - 11/11/13 at 5:14am
post #409 of 700
http://www.soundprofessionals.com/cgi-bin/gold/category/525/audio

Removable cable modded, M50s: $150
Send your M50s, they'll do it for you: $40
Edited by J.Pocalypse - 11/11/13 at 6:08am
post #410 of 700
Quote:
Originally Posted by cCasper TFG View Post

Yeah but why pay $180 for it. That's pretty steep. You can have someone here do it for pretty cheap. You can get the headphones new on Amazon for $99 and I've modded these for $35 including shipping (plug).

 

Or even ~$50 for a used one then order a Neutrik mini and "Lumberg" jack from Dale Pro for ~$4 shipped.  ~$54 for an M50 with detachable cable for us DIY'ers in the States.

post #411 of 700
Here is a pic of my M50 detachable cable mod for my M50s. Very clean and rock solid with this connector:
http://www.newark.com/pro-signal/mj-073h/connector-rca-phono-jack-3pos/dp/24M4866?Ntt=24M4866

post #412 of 700

Great work!

post #413 of 700
Quote:
Originally Posted by Levictus View Post

Here is a pic of my M50 detachable cable mod for my M50s. Very clean and rock solid with this connector:
http://www.newark.com/pro-signal/mj-073h/connector-rca-phono-jack-3pos/dp/24M4866?Ntt=24M4866

Wow i had to register to address this post; it looks fantastic. Im about to do this mod and im looking for the right chassis and if that fits as nice as it looks in that photo, i think ive found the right one. How did you go about affixing it? Did you need to bore out the hole in the housing to fit it through at all?

 

TIA

post #414 of 700
Quote:
Originally Posted by jabrowski View Post
 

Wow i had to register to address this post; it looks fantastic. Im about to do this mod and im looking for the right chassis and if that fits as nice as it looks in that photo, i think ive found the right one. How did you go about affixing it? Did you need to bore out the hole in the housing to fit it through at all?

 

TIA

It looks like these just pop in after removing the old cable. He might have had to drill it out a little but I doubt it. The backside is pretty small. These look pretty nice and easy to use. They don't look very deep either so the insides might not have to be modified to make the mod fit.

 

Link to the chassis: http://www.vetco.net/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=14088

post #415 of 700
Quote:
Originally Posted by jabrowski View Post

Wow i had to register to address this post; it looks fantastic. Im about to do this mod and im looking for the right chassis and if that fits as nice as it looks in that photo, i think ive found the right one. How did you go about affixing it? Did you need to bore out the hole in the housing to fit it through at all?

TIA

Jabrowski
It has been over a month since I modded my cans cause I was too noob for pic permissions. I don't recall having to enlarge the hole at all, however, just like most of the detachable connectors, you do have to remove a small plastic peg and some of the plastic driver support ring to accommodate. It also helps to make a small channel in the white baffling for easier reassembly. The nice thing about this connector is it has a larger ring on the outside and screws down on the inside making it much more stable than the other connectors (and I ordered like 7 different ones to try them out). Hope that helps...
post #416 of 700
Quote:
Originally Posted by Levictus View Post


Jabrowski
It has been over a month since I modded my cans cause I was too noob for pic permissions. I don't recall having to enlarge the hole at all, however, just like most of the detachable connectors, you do have to remove a small plastic peg and some of the plastic driver support ring to accommodate. It also helps to make a small channel in the white baffling for easier reassembly. The nice thing about this connector is it has a larger ring on the outside and screws down on the inside making it much more stable than the other connectors (and I ordered like 7 different ones to try them out). Hope that helps...

Much appreciated levictus. I'm not terribly worried about modifying the insides of the headphones, but i'd like to avoid hacking up the hole through which the chassis goes. Yours looks unbelievably clean so I think i'll be going with that one. Did you use any glue to fasten it in place? Does the 3.5mm plug fit snugly in it/not too loose?

 

Thanks again.

post #417 of 700
Quote:
Originally Posted by jabrowski View Post

Much appreciated levictus. I'm not terribly worried about modifying the insides of the headphones, but i'd like to avoid hacking up the hole through which the chassis goes. Yours looks unbelievably clean so I think i'll be going with that one. Did you use any glue to fasten it in place? Does the 3.5mm plug fit snugly in it/not too loose?

Thanks again.

I didn't use any glue but I did put some thread lock on it before tightening down the inner nut. The plug does fit very snug which is why I chose this one initially. Good luck! smily_headphones1.gif
post #418 of 700

It work great!! I had to resolder it twice because the headphones where only carrying out the instrumentals and all vocals were quiet. I would suggest unsoldering the wires completely and replace them with your own wires so they accept solder. But otherwise I'm very impressed by the quality
post #419 of 700
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackBear98 View Post

It work great!! I had to resolder it twice because the headphones where only carrying out the instrumentals and all vocals were quiet. I would suggest unsoldering the wires completely and replace them with your own wires so they accept solder. But otherwise I'm very impressed by the quality

Yes, always use new wire when soldering headphones that previously used enameled wire. You can burn the enamel off with a lighter but that can affect it's conductivity afterwards. I would just replace it all together just to be safe. 

 

Nice clean job, by the way.

post #420 of 700

So guys I bought the ATH-M50 LEs a year or so back from the soundprofessionals with a detachable cable mod. I haven't used them for a long time and it has been sitting in my closet. The reason I haven't used them in a while is because the audio input is reversed left is right and right is left according to sound tests. Is there a way I can fix this with software or I have to do some handiwork?

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