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ATH-M50 Removable Cable Mod - Page 20

post #286 of 700

How about posting the links to where you bought those?

post #287 of 700

I just picked up these two connectors (because the black matches the HP), and plan on doing this mod as soon as they come.  These seemed like a pretty good deal if anyone is looking to do the mod without mounting a female jack to the headphone cup itself.  I am too scared to melt/file away any of the cup! confused_face.gif

 

LINK: http://www.pacrad.com/catalogsearch/result/?order=relevance&dir=desc&cat=&q=Calrad+30-296-BK+

post #288 of 700

Here is a shot of the completed job, just a quick solder to get the plug in place, and it works like a charm!

 

.

post #289 of 700
Hey guys, I'm a new Head-Fier, a new ATH-M50 owner and a new DIY-er

I finally bit the bullet when the new Daft Punk album came out and ordered a pair of M50's. I was researching them and found this thread in the process and man, does this look intimidating to someone new :P

Basically I have no experience with soldering or wire-work but my father might, so I probably would pull him into some of the more tricky parts of the wiring.

From what I understand after reading through the entire thread, the basic process of doing this mod is:
-opening the cups
-cutting the OG wire to the exterior cable
-melting the colored enamel off the Red Green and Black cables inside (not sure which cables represent which part of the sound, but would love to find out)
-soldering those now-exposed wires onto the new 3.5mm jack
-hot-gluing the jack in place
-closing the casing back up

Just wondering if I missed anything there or if you guys think that any of those steps require more clarification. Other than that I was wondering what you guys think the best 3.5mm jack would be for use with the V-Moda 3 button+mic cable.

Hope you guys can help a new headphone owner out, I'm deathly afraid of killing my brand new headphones.

-Darke
Edited by DarkNexiz - 5/22/13 at 2:01pm
post #290 of 700

The minijack I got:

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/130877638295 (MJ-073H - 3.5MM JACK SOCKETS, STEREO, PANEL MOUNT)

 

Cheap, comes with a spare one if you make a mistake with the first. Reasonably fast shipping. 

It is just a millimeter bigger than the original hole, but a few twists with something sharp cuts it perfect.

The metal ring screws on from the inside, so no glue required. The socket will look flush with the casing :)

 

 

The basic process:

 

- Open the cups

- Cut or desolder the original cable. The original cable has plastic threaded cables, so it's not always an easy task to solder them.

- Fit the minijack into the original cup. Cut / melt whatever is in the way (measure twice, cut once!!).

- BEFORE you solder, put the metal ring of the minijack connector around the wires, and put on cable shrink wrap if you want to. You will not be able to do this after the cables are soldered into place!! 

- Solder the wires. Minijack: Long pin is ground (black). Left is left (green), Right is right (red). Housing, from the left: Green (left), red (right), black (ground).

- Test the headphones before closing up. Repeat solder step until working. If you butch the solder job and solder flows between the three points in the housing, you will need a tool to suck the solder out. Don't try to scrape it away.

- Tighten the minijack-ring. Shrink  shrink wrap if used.

- Close casing.

post #291 of 700

Hi, I'm 16 and have a moderate amount of experience soldering. I was planning on doing this as a plan B in case my M50 cable has issues. How difficult was this? Could a new DIY'r successfully do it with the right amount of caution?

post #292 of 700
Quote:
Originally Posted by arbiche View Post

Let me post my Modded M50

 

Here's the Female plugs that I used.

 

 

[img]https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/943469_10201049944712827_370767334_n.jpg[/img]

 

 

 

and the low profile m50

 

[img]https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/943233_10201021060870749_1407293317_n.jpg[/img]

Wow, that fits really nice!

Well done!!!

post #293 of 700
Quote:
Originally Posted by westinlennox View Post

Here is a shot of the completed job, just a quick solder to get the plug in place, and it works like a charm!

 

.

 

Well done!

What you did was going to be my plan "A" but then later I changed my mind.

 

It seems like you did not use "heat shrinking tube" for the finish.

I think It would look much better and cleaner if you did.

post #294 of 700
Bought this jack from Amazon a few months ago. I was scared to start. But I went through with it anyway. For those of you that are afraid of ruining your sweet M50's, this is the easier route.

[IMG]

post #295 of 700
Quote:
Originally Posted by ortizthx1138 View Post

Bought this jack from Amazon a few months ago. I was scared to start. But I went through with it anyway. For those of you that are afraid of ruining your sweet M50's, this is the easier route.

[IMG]

 

Nice work!

That is  what I thought too.

Even if I fail with this mod, or not happy with the result, I can still go for the other option.

Best part is that I do not have to open up the can.

 

You did a fantastic job, and I like your socks mod, too :)

post #296 of 700
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridhuankim View Post

 

Well done!

What you did was going to be my plan "A" but then later I changed my mind.

 

It seems like you did not use "heat shrinking tube" for the finish.

I think It would look much better and cleaner if you did.

 

I do too, and if I ever sell them I will redo it that way! This was unfortunately one of the all-too-common situations where you remember the heatshrink after the soldering is complete. I'm just an idiot! :)

post #297 of 700

I did this mod not long ago. Used a cheap square 5 prong phone jack (I was cheap and just got it in the dollar store), soldering iron, hot glue gun, solder and cheap $1 iphone usb cable from ebay, and sand paper to smooth out any mess you made.

 

Steps were 

1. Cut the old wire

2. Open the left side with screwdriver.

3. Put the phone jack in.

4. Melt away the plastic behind the driver (didn't have strong enough scissors back then) until the thing fits and you can close it. You probably need to remove that round damping material. If hole isn't big enough use soldering iron to fix that.

5. Unsolder the old wires and resolder with the cheap usb wires. (Don't have to worry about that cotton-like material wrapped around the old wire)

6. Solder the cheap wire to the jack.

7. Test/solder until you get sound.

8. Lots of hot glue to make sure that jack stays in place and won't fall out EVER.

9. Wait for glue to harden.

10. Damping material might not fit anymore. This WILL change the sound and cause a bit of channel imbalance. To fix this just replace the damping material with kitchen paper towel (or remove the damping material from the other cup, but I like the sound with the damping material better)

11. Put everything back together.

12. Use sand paper to clean up mess.

 

Benefits:

Much improved portability!

Now you can attach cables that allow you to control your iDevices!

No perceived decrease in audio quality even though I decided to be cheap and use cheap materials

 

It was my first soldering project and besides a carpet burn (The solder tip wasn't screwed tight enough), it turned out wonderfully.

post #298 of 700








Mod worked great for me, thanks for all the help guys.

I took it to the next step and had a try at DIY cabling.

Never attempted a headphone DIY cable before this, so thought it was worth a shot.

Needs more heatshrink, and the braiding isn't perfect near the connectors. But for $25 worth of materials, I'm definitely happy with it!
post #299 of 700

So if I were to use the Lumberg chassis all I have to do to hold it in place is to glue in on the inside of the housing? Obviously glueing it on the outside will make it look unprofessional and non-oem like.
 

post #300 of 700
Personally, I glued on the inside, looks fine from the outside. Although, I'm not too sure which chassis the Lumberg is exactly (google images spits out a few different results).

I used these:


CREATOR: gd-jpeg v1.0 (using IJG JPEG v62), quality = 90
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