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ATH-M50 Removable Cable Mod - Page 14

post #196 of 708
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eliseo Jacobo View Post

Is there a change in sound when finished the removable cable mod?


No, not that I can notice.

I jumped in to this mod after throughly checking that everyone said there was no change in the sound signature or any harm.

I was also concerned about potential sound leakage after the mod, but I don't find any leakage at all even after the mod so I am happy with that.

Another concern was, if the jack becomes loose... so I went with Lumber Jack with threaded cap.

post #197 of 708

Thank you! May I ask where did you purchase you lumber jack?

post #198 of 708
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eliseo Jacobo View Post

Thank you! May I ask where did you purchase you lumber jack?

 

I got mine from au.element14.com here

post #199 of 708
Quote:
Originally Posted by stiltzkin View Post

Hi folks,

 

I've been thinking about doing this sort of modification to my M50s - the 11.5ft straight cable is a real hassle while walking down the street - I can't find anywhere to put it. A removable cable would mean I could switch between longer cables for use with my amp at home and shorter cables while out and about with them.

 

I was reading a different thread and saw the following photo, which was posted by racer_x124 here.

 

 

 

So as you can see here, he's used a 3-pin mini-XLR jack instead of the Lumberg or another 3.5mm TRS chassis. I like this idea a lot more for a couple of reasons. First, the cable locks in, so there's less chance of pulling it out by mistake. But more importantly, the panel mount jack for a mini-XLR seems to be a lot smaller on the inside than most of the 3.5mm ones I've seen used in this thread. The question I have is whether or not there would be enough room to mount the jack and connect the driver to it without disturbing the internal structure - i.e. without clipping or filing the plastic ring as is necessary for most of these 3.5mm mods. The connector I was looking at possibly using is a Switchcraft TB3MB, which is a standard 3-pin mini-XLR jack with a mounting nut. The B model is painted black, which should look nice with these cans. There is a detailed spec sheet for the connector here.

 

 

The specs look to show a depth of about 0.488" maximum from the ring to the back of the module. I may need to open up my cans and do some measurements to see if there's enough wiggle room in there. But just looking at it it does seem like it takes up much less room on the inside than these TRS barrel jacks. racer_x124's post says that "I had a mini XLR in mine with no problems at all. There is a ton of room in the M50," so that sounds hopeful. I think I should PM him as well even though it doesn't look like he's posted in the last year.

 

 

If anyone has any advice or comments on this idea I'd love to hear them. I just want to do this safely and modify the internal parts of the headphones as little as possible.

 

thanks for posting this up. i was looking for a mini 3pin xlr jack to mod mine with. this one looks great.

 

do you know of a suitable female 3pin xlr connector that i can use for the stock headphone wiring?

 

i'm looking at the mouser catalog (http://www.mouser.com/catalogviewer.aspx?page=1356&highlight=502-TA3FLX&catalogculture=en-US&catalog=645) and am unsure which connector to get. the TA3FX or TA3FLX (larger cable)
 


Edited by alrgeez - 11/9/12 at 2:13pm
post #200 of 708
Hey, I'm new to the forum but I've been following this topic and I'm ready to mod my own M50s (white)! I've purchase the right chassis and also ordered a REAM 3.5 mm headphone jack (owned by Neutrik) but have no clue how to install it on the original wire. I've Google it and nothing really conclusive has come up, so I thought I'd see if you guys could help me, especially since meizumintyboy actually put Neutrik connectors on his. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated, as I'm a complete newbie to this whole thing. Thanks!
post #201 of 708

Hi I did this mod some time ago and I just very recently realized that my sound is switched...  The sound that should be coming from the left is played on the right and the right is being played on the left headphone. Please help me. I'm very annoyed with this mistake that I made and can't figure it out...

 

Forget it. Its cool I fixed it. I thought I solder the correct wires to the correct terminals when I was repairing it before but I guess is reversed it.


Edited by RzN036 - 11/15/12 at 1:41pm
post #202 of 708
Quote:
Originally Posted by SwimToTheDeath View Post

Hey, I'm new to the forum but I've been following this topic and I'm ready to mod my own M50s (white)! I've purchase the right chassis and also ordered a REAM 3.5 mm headphone jack (owned by Neutrik) but have no clue how to install it on the original wire. I've Google it and nothing really conclusive has come up, so I thought I'd see if you guys could help me, especially since meizumintyboy actually put Neutrik connectors on his. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated, as I'm a complete newbie to this whole thing. Thanks!

 

Solder L to tip, R to the middle and ground to the sleeve.

post #203 of 708

may i ask how easy is this to do? I have no wiring experience what so ever. From one to ten how hard will this be?

post #204 of 708

Its very easy to do this mod.

Open left driver, cut wires soldered to driver leaving 4-5 inches, mount your jack in the opening, solder the wires from the drivers to the correct ones on the jack. The driver is labeled with L/R so you know which wire is for which.

All you'll need is a jack, soldering iron ($10 one from radioshack will do perfectly) and some solder. Also possibly a drill/rounded file to adjust the size of the hole to your need.

post #205 of 708

Hi all,

After reviewing this thread, I'm looking for someone to mod a pair of ATH M50S LE's. The forever-long straight cable isn't going to cut it on the train. I'm giving these as a gift so the mod needs to be squeaky clean and look great, but I'm just not willing to do it myself.  I will surely ruin something if I undertake it alone. So, recognizing that there's a huge amount of trust involved to send a great pair of cans away to someone you don't know to do surgery on them and then simply cross your fingers and hope that they are returned to you safely, if there's someone out there who's doing this as a gig on the side for a reasonable price, I'd be interested in knowing about it. Thanks.

post #206 of 708

Hey guys,

 

New guy here, I just did the removable cable mod on my AT-50s.  However I can't seem to figure out how to upload pics (using the pics button up top) of my work and a slight improvement on the wiring/soldering that im sure will help other people interested in performing this task.

 

 

thanks in advance

post #207 of 708

I just got my M50's in white, and want to do the detachable cable mod.  however, I'm thinking that it might be a better idea to have a dongle.  Just clipping the stock wire about 1~2 inches from the can, then terminate it w/ a locking female socket.  Then, I can get a long male to male cable from Monoprice, cut it so that I have one long (home/computer use) and one shorter one (portable), and terminate those w/ the corresponding locking male ends.

 

Looking at the Calrad female connector

http://audio-video-supply.markertek.com/broadcasting/Locking%203.5mm%20Stereo%20Audio%20Plug

 

Seems to be easier than opening up the can and possibly messing w/ the sound of the cans. 

 

Any reason this would not work or not be ideal?  Sure a flush socket may look more sleek, but who cares what it looks like when it's unplugged since you need it to be plugged in while using it.

 

Thoughts?

post #208 of 708

looks much nicer than my black socks mod, thanks!

post #209 of 708

to #56 looks much nicer than my black socks mod, thanks!

post #210 of 708
Quote:
Originally Posted by stiltzkin View Post

Hi folks,

 

I've been thinking about doing this sort of modification to my M50s - the 11.5ft straight cable is a real hassle while walking down the street - I can't find anywhere to put it. A removable cable would mean I could switch between longer cables for use with my amp at home and shorter cables while out and about with them.

 

I was reading a different thread and saw the following photo, which was posted by racer_x124 here.

 

So as you can see here, he's used a 3-pin mini-XLR jack instead of the Lumberg or another 3.5mm TRS chassis. I like this idea a lot more for a couple of reasons. First, the cable locks in, so there's less chance of pulling it out by mistake. But more importantly, the panel mount jack for a mini-XLR seems to be a lot smaller on the inside than most of the 3.5mm ones I've seen used in this thread. The question I have is whether or not there would be enough room to mount the jack and connect the driver to it without disturbing the internal structure - i.e. without clipping or filing the plastic ring as is necessary for most of these 3.5mm mods. The connector I was looking at possibly using is a Switchcraft TB3MB, which is a standard 3-pin mini-XLR jack with a mounting nut. The B model is painted black, which should look nice with these cans. There is a detailed spec sheet for the connector here.

 

The specs look to show a depth of about 0.488" maximum from the ring to the back of the module. I may need to open up my cans and do some measurements to see if there's enough wiggle room in there. But just looking at it it does seem like it takes up much less room on the inside than these TRS barrel jacks. racer_x124's post says that "I had a mini XLR in mine with no problems at all. There is a ton of room in the M50," so that sounds hopeful. I think I should PM him as well even though it doesn't look like he's posted in the last year.

 

If anyone has any advice or comments on this idea I'd love to hear them. I just want to do this safely and modify the internal parts of the headphones as little as possible.

I'm planning to do this, there is also a cheap version of this mod, which uses multicomp instead of switchcraft :D

 

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