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ATH-M50 Removable Cable Mod - Page 13

post #181 of 719
Quote:
Originally Posted by lemonspark View Post

alo guys, i have some questions to ask, I'm gonna send my m50 to a guy that does all these service and stuff..

and he says he will be installing this inside the headphone

 

!BddzY-wBmk~$(KGrHqIH-D4Ere++feUnBK5G67obGQ~~_35.JPGor a Bella female socket mini stereo.. he let me choose tho.. so help!

and this male plug for the m50 stock cable.(so that i can use the stock cable again! :D)\

 

 

You know what?

The mod everyone here is doing is basically installing the 3.5mm female jack at the hole where the cable exits from the left headphone.

And that requires heavy modification internally, not only do you have to open up the unit but you will need to break some parts in there to force fit the female jack.

 

But if you were to use the above, you won't have to open up the M50 at all.

You just need to cut the cable near the hole and connect this to the cable.

 

It will not be as "CLEAN" or "NEAT" as it would have been with implanting the 3.5mm female jack in the headphone and will leave this connector dangling on the headphone but I am thinking this might be a better way to ensure that you don't damage the headphone and you will have another chance to go ahead with the implant mod in case you didn't like it.

 

This looks more tempting to me.

I really didn't like the idea that I need to break inner parts of the M50 to fit in the female jack but this really is a good way to avoid that.

 

Thanks for sharing!

post #182 of 719

Hi, All.

Can you advise if the following can work as well?

The length looks much shorter which is good because we don't have to break the inner part of the left headphone.

LUMBERG - 1502 04 - CONNECTOR, JACK, 3.5MM, 3POLE

Also, here is the specification.

 

If this can be used, I think it would be a good for the mod.

post #183 of 719

I went the easy route and sent mine to Sound Professionals for the detachable cable mod. 

Total cost with shipping was $63.51. Of this cost $23.52 was shipping costs (total for both ways). The good news is the turn around time is FAST!!! Got an email the day after they received them stating that the job was complete and were already shipped. The bad news is the return shipping is UPS Ground and that is as slow as turtle. I should receive them tomorrow sometime but with work, etc I won't be able to check em out until Thursday evening.

Once I've checked them out I will post pictures.

 

PEACE

 

Mark M

post #184 of 719

Before I do my removable cable mod, does anyone know what colored wires inside the M50 (Black/Green/Red) correspond to on my female headphone jack (left/right/ground)?

post #185 of 719
Quote:
Originally Posted by infinity404 View Post

Before I do my removable cable mod, does anyone know what colored wires inside the M50 (Black/Green/Red) correspond to on my female headphone jack (left/right/ground)?

 

You could do the 9V battery trick.. I think we can all agree, green is typically ground. Touch the green to one terminal on the battery and any other wire to the other terminal. Where ever you hear a little pop noise, that'll tell you what side the wire goes to.

post #186 of 719

black is ground

green is left

red is right

post #187 of 719
Quote:
Originally Posted by t0wer View Post

black is ground

green is left

red is right

Oops. Sorry for my misinformation earlier then. Hope it didn't mess anyone up.

post #188 of 719

i think to reduce risk of confusion, we should say that black is common. ground is commonly confused with it, but ground would mean that it is grounded to the earth, but common would mean it is shared between multiple circuits.

Quote:
Originally Posted by t0wer View Post

black is ground

green is left

red is right

i will be preforming this mod pretty soon. As i have seen it requested multiple times, i will be recording my work as i do it, and will upload it to youtube. it will be a long video, but will hopefully help anyone trying to preform the mod without much experience.

post #189 of 719

I'm hoping to do this mod soon. I will post pictures when I'm done :)

post #190 of 719
Quote:
Originally Posted by fzsrv View Post

I went the easy route and sent mine to Sound Professionals for the detachable cable mod. 

Total cost with shipping was $63.51. Of this cost $23.52 was shipping costs (total for both ways). The good news is the turn around time is FAST!!! Got an email the day after they received them stating that the job was complete and were already shipped. The bad news is the return shipping is UPS Ground and that is as slow as turtle. I should receive them tomorrow sometime but with work, etc I won't be able to check em out until Thursday evening.

Once I've checked them out I will post pictures.

 

PEACE

 

Mark M

 

thinking about ordering the ones with a detachable cable directly from sound professionals. what is the quality of the jack like? would it ever fall out? does it snap in nicely? how many times do you think you could remove and plug back in the cable before it started wearing down?

 

i just plan on using these daily for studio use as well as portable use, and am not sure if i should just get the regular cable for durability's sake.

post #191 of 719
Quote:
Originally Posted by t0wer View Post

black is ground

green is left

red is right

 

I just finished my mod :)

 

When you open up the plug, the black is the common and is to be connected to the biggest connector part.

Then the green one need to  be connected to the pole that is in the end.

 

||==)=)=>

b     r   g

 

I hope this makes sense.

b = black

r = red (right audio)

g = green (left audio)

 

At the jack, as you can see the green one is the tip.

If you  have the diagram of  your jack then  it would be good  to check which should  connect to the green.

 

Once you can figure that out, your job is complete :)

Even if you get it wrong, you just need to resolder by switching the red and green so nothing to worry about.

 

I used Virtual Haircut to confirm the left and right was correct.

 

 

 

And the JACK!

 

I used "Lumber Jack 1502 04" which does not penetrate too much to the inside of the headphone.

This worked out well so  I did not have to break much inside the headphone.

I did however had to cut one of the plastic pole where the cable was initially going around it.

I don't think it was a must but it did help me to  perform the mod easier.

 

The bigger job was expanding the hole where the cable was going into the headphone, the place where the jack sits.

The Lumberg Jack was thicker than I hoped for and had to make the hole a bit larger to fit in.

Once the jack went in tightly, all I had to do was to lock it with the nut it came with.

 

I will post some pictures soon but it was late at night and the flash made things look messy but it could still be helpful to anyone who is considering to use the Lumber Jack 1502 04.

post #192 of 719

Here is my shot after the mod.

I used Lumberjack 1502 04 pair so the plug has a screw cover on it.

 

This is when unscrewing and unplugging the Lumberjack 1052.

But other plugs also fit perfectly.

post #193 of 719
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridhuankim View Post

Here is my shot after the mod.

I used Lumberjack 1502 04 pair so the plug has a screw cover on it.

 

 

This is when unscrewing and unplugging the Lumberjack 1052.

But other plugs also fit perfectly.

 

 

that looks really good, and i like that it is threaded. i may just order the regular version and copy you.

post #194 of 719

Is there a change in sound when finished the removable cable mod?

post #195 of 719

Hi folks,

 

I've been thinking about doing this sort of modification to my M50s - the 11.5ft straight cable is a real hassle while walking down the street - I can't find anywhere to put it. A removable cable would mean I could switch between longer cables for use with my amp at home and shorter cables while out and about with them.

 

I was reading a different thread and saw the following photo, which was posted by racer_x124 here.

 

 

 

So as you can see here, he's used a 3-pin mini-XLR jack instead of the Lumberg or another 3.5mm TRS chassis. I like this idea a lot more for a couple of reasons. First, the cable locks in, so there's less chance of pulling it out by mistake. But more importantly, the panel mount jack for a mini-XLR seems to be a lot smaller on the inside than most of the 3.5mm ones I've seen used in this thread. The question I have is whether or not there would be enough room to mount the jack and connect the driver to it without disturbing the internal structure - i.e. without clipping or filing the plastic ring as is necessary for most of these 3.5mm mods. The connector I was looking at possibly using is a Switchcraft TB3MB, which is a standard 3-pin mini-XLR jack with a mounting nut. The B model is painted black, which should look nice with these cans. There is a detailed spec sheet for the connector here.

 

 

The specs look to show a depth of about 0.488" maximum from the ring to the back of the module. I may need to open up my cans and do some measurements to see if there's enough wiggle room in there. But just looking at it it does seem like it takes up much less room on the inside than these TRS barrel jacks. racer_x124's post says that "I had a mini XLR in mine with no problems at all. There is a ton of room in the M50," so that sounds hopeful. I think I should PM him as well even though it doesn't look like he's posted in the last year.

 

 

If anyone has any advice or comments on this idea I'd love to hear them. I just want to do this safely and modify the internal parts of the headphones as little as possible.


Edited by stiltzkin - 10/29/12 at 6:53pm
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