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ATH-M50 Removable Cable Mod - Page 12

post #166 of 720

I would not advise anyone to use that jack. First the prongs are flimsy, making it very easy to break. Second the jack does not extend from the hole left by the removed wire far enough to have the fastener securely attached. Here is the one I used after putzing around with the Radio Shack type and learning that they were a mistake.

 

21-WDJOugZL.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ML4A2Q/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

Since installing it (which was very easy, compared to the radio shack type) I've had no issues. It's very sturdy and will make your life a lot easier.

 
post #167 of 720
Quote:
Originally Posted by jadawgis732 View Post

I would not advise anyone to use that jack. First the prongs are flimsy, making it very easy to break. Second the jack does not extend from the hole left by the removed wire far enough to have the fastener securely attached. Here is the one I used after putzing around with the Radio Shack type and learning that they were a mistake.

 

 

I've had no problems with the same looking jack from Kobiconn. If the leads are too long, just trim them with a wire cutter.

 

I would never suggest anything from rat shack, but Kobiconn is reputable and I've never had any problems reported to me about them.

post #168 of 720

modded my m50 after less than a year having them, used the barrel type jack from amazon

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=090-317

 

and soldered the original cable with this

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=092-157

 

and added this just for fun as well, just in case anyone was looking for a cable with mic

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGHN5A/ref=oh_details_o00_s01_i00

 

the mic isnt going to be as good as a boom type mic but the build quality and clarity is good for the style it is

 

heres some pics

700

personally i think the black and red are sexy

700

 

the annoying part about this mod is that the barrel type gets in the way of the plastic that holds the speaker in place, you need to cut the plastic and butcher the insides, you need to add a wrap about the threads of the barrel in order to keep it tight as well

 

 

 

 

 
post #169 of 720

Hey I did the same mod with all the same parts as above, or I should say I am in the middle of doing it. Just a few questions. 1. My red and green cable have detached themselves through me trying to do this mod. Would it be better to still stick with the stock cable or just get my own wiring and solder all 3 to the board and the jack? Also for the coloring on the jack, from what I see people have black on the longer connection, red on the gold connection, and green on the none gold shorter connector. Is this the right order? Would it matter if I switched the red and green wires? Also for the making your old cable into a aux cable, I bought the part, would I solder them the same way I am about to the aux jack? Thank you for the help guys. 

 

p.s. This is my first time soldering, so I am trying to learn a little more, anyone have any good videos they can recommend?

 

CptSamir


Edited by CptSamir - 8/3/12 at 9:48pm
post #170 of 720
Quote:
Originally Posted by CptSamir View Post

Hey I did the same mod with all the same parts as above, or I should say I am in the middle of doing it. Just a few questions. 1. My red and green cable have detached themselves through me trying to do this mod. Would it be better to still stick with the stock cable or just get my own wiring and solder all 3 to the board and the jack? Also for the coloring on the jack, from what I see people have black on the longer connection, red on the gold connection, and green on the none gold shorter connector. Is this the right order? Would it matter if I switched the red and green wires? Also for the making your old cable into a aux cable, I bought the part, would I solder them the same way I am about to the aux jack? Thank you for the help guys. 

 

p.s. This is my first time soldering, so I am trying to learn a little more, anyone have any good videos they can recommend?

 

CptSamir

I would stick with the stock cables, but nothing is stopping you from using different cables. Just make sure they're the same size. If your gonna use new wires, one idea is to cut some of the length off of the old cable and use the wires inside. As with the connections, when I did it, the black one went on the longer connection and the other two i just put randomly on the other two connections, so im not sure if theres a specific place to arrange those two. With the aux cable it would be the same way. 

Just on soldering, make sure your solder is good quality and also that you iron is hot enough, i.e. probably around 30W. You could probably survive with a 15W like me, but i had to have a few goes before I got a good connection. 

Also another useful tip, before soldering the new plug onto your cable, make sure you put on the screw on part through the cable first. 

Good Luck!

post #171 of 720
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rightio View Post

I would stick with the stock cables, but nothing is stopping you from using different cables. Just make sure they're the same size. If your gonna use new wires, one idea is to cut some of the length off of the old cable and use the wires inside. As with the connections, when I did it, the black one went on the longer connection and the other two i just put randomly on the other two connections, so im not sure if theres a specific place to arrange those two. With the aux cable it would be the same way. 

Just on soldering, make sure your solder is good quality and also that you iron is hot enough, i.e. probably around 30W. You could probably survive with a 15W like me, but i had to have a few goes before I got a good connection. 

Also another useful tip, before soldering the new plug onto your cable, make sure you put on the screw on part through the cable first. 

Good Luck!

Thank you. I did solder the old cable last night after writing this (figured hell with it I will try) and it seems to be working all fine today when I tested it in the car. So thank you. I am using a 30w solder so no worries on the heating. I will try to keep using the stock cable for the internal hookup of the headphone, if you could answer just 2 more questions. 1, should I solder the red wire on the gold part of this jack and the green to the shorter part, and the black on the longest part? Or are the green and the red interchangeable on the jack? Second question, for soldering the main board of the headphones, do I need to remove the old solder that was there? And any tips on how to solder the 2 piece back into the main board (Example: Do I have to take off the board before I solder the 2 wires that came out?) Just in case you need it here is a picture of what the board is currently looking like on my end. Yes I did burn the space needed for the jack, I was to lazy and could not find a good way to cut it, so fire it is!

 

Thank you very much for the help!

 

CptSamir


Edited by CptSamir - 8/4/12 at 2:53pm
post #172 of 720

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by CptSamir View Post

 Second question, for soldering the main board of the headphones, do I need to remove the old solder that was there? And any tips on how to solder the 2 piece back into the main board (Example: Do I have to take off the board before I solder the 2 wires that came out?)

 

You can get a cheap "solder wick" which picks up heated solder. You don't need to remove the board. You can check YouTube for vids with tips on soldering, but the most important things i recommend are 1) don't hold the iron on too long, 2) use a clean, pointy tip and 3) use fine "electronics-grade" solder.

 

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by CptSamir View Post

should I solder the red wire on the gold part of this jack and the green to the shorter part, and the black on the longest part? Or are the green and the red interchangeable on the jack?

 

Congrats on taking the dive. The red and green are right and left audio. If you swap them then left channel audio will be heard in the right ear cup and vice versa. I recommend that after you've resoldered the wires to the board that you lightly solder the red wire to the gold pin on the jack (since some jack pinouts are different) then test to see if 1) audio is heard, 2) when audio output (from stereo or audio software) is right channel only you hear it out of the "R" ear cup and 3) when audio output is left channel only you don't hear anything at all.


Edited by determinedd - 8/5/12 at 6:52am
post #173 of 720

I'm going to be doing this mod but I was wondering what kind of male connectors you guys have used on your interconnects that go into the headphones? I'm talking about the male 3.5mm plug that goes into the female jack on the headphones. Will a Neutrik fit? Some pictures would be nice.

post #174 of 720

You're going to want a set that locks together.. 

post #175 of 720

The reason people are having trouble tinning the wire once they remove the enemal coating from it is because if you use a lighter to burn it off its leaves the wires surfaces pretty crappy and contaminated

 

It needs to be cleaned afterwards simple as that

 

or a different method to remove the enamal can be used

 

On larger enemal wire sandpaper can be used to remove the enemal

 

Cleanliness is important when soldering - (reason flux and flux wire is used)

 

Also making sure the surface/material bieng soldered to is at a nice temperature to allow the Flux to stick

 

Also remember to tin the tip of the soldering iron.


Edited by miniq - 8/13/12 at 2:39pm
post #176 of 720

I didn't do the removable cable mod, as I am planning another project that will require a purchase from Mouser, so I'm holding off on the jack for the left cup, but I did re-cable mine with Mogami W2893. I desoldered the right channel from the PCB inside the left cup and directly connected those two wires to two of the wires in the cable and I kept the left and right grounds separate until reaching the plug. I went into this not expecting (read: believing) the different cable will make a difference in terms of sound, but now I feel like there is a difference. The bass seems punchier and more clear. I'm not sure what I think about the highs. Perhaps recessed is the word. I guess you could say that's a good thing as they were almost piercing to me. I'm not sure if anything actually changed but I did go into it not believing in the whole upgraded cable thing. Anyhow, I figured I would just share my two cents.

 

post #177 of 720

I bought my M50s from another Head-Fi-er, and they were recabled with some Mogami 2534. Only thing is, that cable is about 10 (12?) feet long.. Too bad I can't solder with any kind of precision.

post #178 of 720

I had plan to do this mod once I get my M50s (which I got today) as my ATH-AN7b also has it OOTB and that was fantastic.

Now when I got my M50s, I was wondering.... do I really have to do it?

Because the cable was already looped and tied, it wasn't that long.

The tied cables easily go into my pocket so I don't think I would go with this mod, changed my mind.

 

Instead, the ear pad was really really sweaty and I am considering to make the "SOCKS" mod since everyone was saying the sound signature changes dramatically(in bad ways) so the SOCKS mod seems to be the safest way to go.

 

Anyway, thanks for sharing your hard work, they are fantastic!

post #179 of 720

Get some Beyer DT250 velour Like I did, and just don't use the piece that actually covers up the driver. I used it because the sound change really didn't bother me vs. the upgrade in comfort.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by ridhuankim View Post

Instead, the ear pad was really really sweaty and I am considering to make the "SOCKS" mod since everyone was saying the sound signature changes dramatically(in bad ways) so the SOCKS mod seems to be the safest way to go.

post #180 of 720

After days of use, the looped cable does get in the way.

So I guess I will go ahead with the detachable mod, just need to find the parts(in Australia).

 

I am seriously considering the parts suggested by "rcjroy".

 

    modded my m50 after less than a year having them, used the barrel type jack from amazon

    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=090-317

 

    and soldered the original cable with this

    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=092-157

 

    and added this just for fun as well, just in case anyone was looking for a cable with mic

    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006NGHN5A/ref=oh_details_o00_s01_i00

 

 

And the "cable with mic" does seem to be a good option, my wife would call my phone while I am listening to music and I literally have to get my headphones off my head to answer the phone which I inconvenient, thanks for the tip jcjroy, but I wonder if that affects the sound in anyway when using the non-stock cable. Is the cable compatible with iphone?

 

 

And by the way, the socks mod, it was pretty easy to do and works amazing.

I does leak some sound compared to without it but there is no SWEAT!

As a first time M50 user, it was shocking to me how much sweat I had, and considering that I am walking outside during my lunch hour, I really need to get this solved somehow.

I will need to find a better looking socks(bigsmile_face.gif) to make it look a bit better than my current one though.

 

A little bit of sound leak was a trade off that is acceptable to me.

 

Anyone from Australia(NSW)? Do you know where I can get those parts to perform the detachable mod?

Or did you purchase them off ebay?

 

Thanks!

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