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ATH-M50 Removable Cable Mod - Page 2

post #16 of 698

Actually I had to break off the left bolt because it was in the way. Also, the plastic enclosing the driver was hitting the jack, preventing me from closing the cup. I just melted away some plastic with the thicker part of my soldering iron. I'm not sure if that's the best way though. I was pretty scared just melting stuff right beneath the driver, lol. As I've said this is my first DIY, so I might not be giving the best information. I'd like to know how meizumintyboi did it.

post #17 of 698

Cool mod!

post #18 of 698
Thread Starter 
Yeah I used pliers to snap off the left piece.
The connection it's very strong, no flex at all when inserting/removing cables
post #19 of 698
Thread Starter 
Yeah I filed down the bottom part of the plastic that enclosed the driver as well
post #20 of 698

Same result for me!! THX!

 

I also happily offer support for anyone who is interested in getting their pair modded or will mod them for you!

finished


Edited by mraudio - 2/5/14 at 6:26pm
post #21 of 698

Nice job! 

post #22 of 698

heys guys, im also going to mod my m50's, and i got a few questions, if you'll hear me out

i ordered a soldering iron and solder, off ebay, cuz i dont have one yet and it was so cheap!

jus wondering if the soldering iron and solder is right for the job:

iron:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190494367117&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

solder:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150582186138&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

 

i bought lead and tin with resin core because thats the one im familiar with (used at school before), so will it work?

 

also, i bought a chassis, tried to get the same one as your ones, to avoid any problems,

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380324103907&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

is this one fine?

 

last thing. im not too sure what you mean by male/female sockets and jacks, could anyone explain and will it make a difference to what ive gone and bought already?

 

thanks in advance

post #23 of 698

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by necorn View Post

heys guys, im also going to mod my m50's, and i got a few questions, if you'll hear me out

i ordered a soldering iron and solder, off ebay, cuz i dont have one yet and it was so cheap!

jus wondering if the soldering iron and solder is right for the job:

[...]

i bought lead and tin with resin core because thats the one im familiar with (used at school before), so will it work?

[...]

also, i bought a chassis, tried to get the same one as your ones, to avoid any problems,

[...]

 


Those all look fine to me. That soldering iron is 60W, which is a bit on the high side. So be careful not to apply heat for too long when working with electronics, or components that have plastic parts.

 

I highly recommend getting the helping hand clamps. Makes soldering a lot easier. This was the cheapest one I found on eBay:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HELPING-HAND-SOLDER-STAND-MAGNIFYING-GLASS-LED-/190551007949

It's also the fanciest looking one. Go figure. You can probably also find it at a local electronics store.

 

 

Quote:
last thing. im not too sure what you mean by male/female sockets and jacks, could anyone explain and will it make a difference to what ive gone and bought already?

 

The one you bought is a 3.5mm stereo chassis socket. Female = jack = socket. Male = plug. I believe "chassis" refers to the fact that it screws on to the chassis (i.e. outer body) rather than being fixed onto a circuit board or in-line with a cable.

 

 

post #24 of 698

ah i see, thanks a lot.

i placed an order on the helping hands so now all i got to do is wait for all my stuff to arrive.

ill post pics of my m50's soon(~a month's time)

post #25 of 698
Thread Starter 

try and get a temperature adjustable one if you can

post #26 of 698

Here a few pictures of the inside of mine, per request of another forum member. Hopefully these pictures can help anyone else out there wanting to do this.

 

IMG_0633.jpg

 

 

Here's where I melted a part of the driver encasement to make room for the jack.

IMG_0634.jpg

 

 

This is where I broke off the plastic bolt to make room for the jack. Also, you'll need to cut the cotton padding on the inside of the cup for room for the jack.

IMG_0635.jpg

post #27 of 698

wow, finally we get to see the insides of a modded m50!

 

is there possibly another way to make the socket fit without melting the driver case?

bit worried about possibly damaging the driver..

post #28 of 698
Thread Starter 

yeah I just filed it down, but you don't need to worry about melting the driver, that piece can be unscrewed, and the white insulation can be taken out very easily, it is held down by just 3 small star head screws, I would advise you take it off before melting/filing, then wash and dry before re-installing.

post #29 of 698

Question: I am in the process of doing this with my ATH-M50s (pics to follow) but I cut the wire connecting the left driver to the headphones so that I could dremel down the plastic prong which blocks the socket jack I am installing. The reason was that I didn't want to break out the dremel right near the driver.

 

So after the fitting process was complete I started stripping wires, getting ready to solder. But here is where my problem arose. I see that the wire going to the right driver has two solder point on the left driver's circuit board. It is a red wire and, I believe a ground wire, but both are encased in one small wire. How do I get around this, can I just solder the wires back together, or do I have to separate these wires? Thanks.

post #30 of 698

Well, it does work, but the right channel has lost its ability to reproduce any bass at all. So I guess I'm on to replacing the wire running to the right can? Am I going to be able to hide it as it was originally?

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