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ATH-M50 Removable Cable Mod - Page 9

post #121 of 708

Yep, I've tried.....lol

 

I recommend either the AIAIAI TMA cable, or the V-Moda ones! (V-moda one is cheap, and wuality is really good! :)
 

post #122 of 708

I'm having a problem with my cable after attaching another male 1/8 jack to the cable.  I've striped it tinned the ends of the wire and soldered it to terminals on the jack and after like several days, the sound cuts off and then I have to restrip the wires and solder again. I've done the so much in the past week I think I may have broken my jack ( I suck at soldering).   Does anybody know of a solution to my problems,  I was thinking I should just resolder the wires one last time and this time hot glue the ends of the terminals and the wires so it doesn't bend or break once I buy another jack, one that doesn't suck because I just bought one from Fry's today the sound quality is terrible.

post #123 of 708
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunny McSmith View Post

Yep, I've tried.....lol

 

I recommend either the AIAIAI TMA cable, or the V-Moda ones! (V-moda one is cheap, and wuality is really good! :)
 

Dude!!! No ******* way!

I've been searching for so long, for a replacement cable with a mic, after my M50 mod.

All I had was a ****ty Monster iSonitalk cable which doesn't work well because the "answer call" button is ****.

And the sound of the mic isn't that great either.

Every time I Googled for an alternative cable I got bs results.

I just couldn't find a cable with: trrs mini-jack, to mic, to mini-jack trs.

 

You pointed me at V-Moda and one of the first cables I saw was exactly the one I needed!

http://v-moda.com/3-button-remote-mic-cable/

You are a hero! Thank you so much! I just ordered two.

Can't wait to ritually burn that annoying Monster cable!

 

Thanks man,

 

 

Daan

post #124 of 708
Quote:

Originally Posted by meizumintyboi View Post

 

Very simple mod, just on a trial basis got a pair of old socks, cut the tops off, with a bit of trial and error to find the best length.

 

I'm going to have to give this a try. The sweaty ear thing really bugs me.

post #125 of 708
I have the lumberg chassis (the one thats a cylinder). Does it matter which wire is attached to which of the ends of the chassis, and if so, what colour goes with which end?
post #126 of 708

wow... they all looks great...

i think i wanna do it...

post #127 of 708
Quote:
Originally Posted by stofstik View Post

Dude!!! No ******* way!

I've been searching for so long, for a replacement cable with a mic, after my M50 mod.

All I had was a ****ty Monster iSonitalk cable which doesn't work well because the "answer call" button is ****.

And the sound of the mic isn't that great either.

Every time I Googled for an alternative cable I got bs results.

I just couldn't find a cable with: trrs mini-jack, to mic, to mini-jack trs.

 

You pointed me at V-Moda and one of the first cables I saw was exactly the one I needed!

http://v-moda.com/3-button-remote-mic-cable/

You are a hero! Thank you so much! I just ordered two.

Can't wait to ritually burn that annoying Monster cable!

 

Thanks man,

 

 

Daan


Yep,

 

I almost went for the Monster cable route, but it felt so cheap when i tried the cable at besbuy (when trying out a pair of "****ty" beats....) so i trashed that idea, and I came accross the V-moda cable!

 

Anyways, IMO the V-moda cable is the way to go, by far the best removable headphone cable out there! the fabric/kevlar insulating layer makes this cable so much more flexible, and it doesnt freeze during winter!

 

Plus, the 3 button mic/remote is so good! doesnt feel as cheap as the ISonitalk thinggy....!


Edited by Gunny McSmith - 5/11/12 at 8:53am
post #128 of 708

Hello:

 

In case there are folks out there that don't want to try this themselves, we offer this modification and guarantee our work for 5 years:

 

http://www.soundprofessionals.com/cgi-bin/gold/item/ATH-M50-RETROFIT

 

Our techs are completing about 10 of these per day so if you have any questions, shoot an email to techsupport@soundprofessionals.com

 

Hope this helps!

 

Chris Carfagno

The Sound Professionals, Inc

800-213-3021

post #129 of 708
I have Mogami cable going to both ear cups on my M50s. Could you still do this?

Edited by J.Pocalypse - 5/15/12 at 6:56am
post #130 of 708

Can someone make a video tutorial of it? 
Or a step-by-step tutorial with pictures? 

I know nuts about wires...and I don't wanna mess up my cans. :(

post #131 of 708
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcvin View Post

Can someone make a video tutorial of it? 
Or a step-by-step tutorial with pictures? 

I know nuts about wires...and I don't wanna mess up my cans. :(

There are lots of pictures and step-by-step instructions in this thread. I suggest reading through the thread at least twice before attempting the mod as we've learned from one another the best tools and methods to use. You'll probably be able to do yours better and add your successful tools and methods to this thread for the next person who wants to do the mod.

 

My primary suggestion is to first try this on cheap cans!

post #132 of 708

Just joined up to reply to this post.
Really awesome thread, I have a good idea on what to do thanks to all the awesome people posting guides, pictures, etc.
I also had a problem with sweaty ears but now I have some DT250's on the way to fix that thanks to you guys.
I am planning on doing this mod with my Dad who has lots of experience with soldering (Manual Arts teacher for nearly 35 years).
My main question though is where I can find a high quality 3.5mm jack like the ones being posted in the thread.

The problem is that I live in Australia and I cannot seem to find anywhere to buy one and ship it to Australia (I was thinking of using a parcel forwarder but it cost lots of money).
So if anyone knows where I can find a 3.5mm jack like the Lumberg in Australia or anywhere that ships to Australia for a low price I would really be thankful.
Thanks in advance :)

EDIT:
So after looking for ages I finally managed to find two different 3.5mm female chassis.
For anyone who wants to buy a chassis in Australia here are the links:
The first is the Lumberg at:http://au.element14.com/lumberg/klb-4/socket-3-5mm-jack-chassis/dp/1200144

The second is one that someone on a thread said was really good. However from this website the shipping is $40: http://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/161-7300-EX/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv0W4pxf2HiV2oxafp8PWP3uLV6puKy7fU%3D


Edited by FloppyDawg - 5/18/12 at 10:02pm
post #133 of 708

Heya - I just registered after doing the mod.

 

I did a few little things differently - here's a short summary:

 

Tools used: - Dremel (Proxxon), - Soldering Iron, - Glue Gun, - Solder (60% Sn, 38% Pb, 2% Cu), - KBL 4 (Lumberg), - Knives!

 

Basically the only things i did differently are beauty things (even tho nobody's gonna look inside my cans anytime soon ;) ).

 

I dremeled the little pin away and the enclosure above the driver was dremeled in a more or less nice way as well. I didn't resolder anything - the only things i soldered were the 3 wires (Green for left - Pin #1 on KBL4 and Red for right - Pin #2 on KBL4 and the ground one).

 

It did take much longer than i expected (*sigh*) but now I'll be prepared for the next mod ;D

 

I wanted to make a video for youtube but i kinda forgot ... :>

 

I'll add pictures soon.

 

If anybody's got a better idea of what solder to use just tell - definitely not using lead free cuz i don't have a proper iron for that. And the ones with Silver in are kinda expensive.

 

Oh and something regarding the enamel coating: The general idea is to get it off with something hot. I found it to be better to use a good knife and scratch it off. You'll see your success because after the coating is off the copper wire starts to be shiny.

 

P.S.: If somebody from Germany or around needs some kind of advice in German feel free to PM


Edited by ryugen - 5/25/12 at 6:34am
post #134 of 708

Is this mod method suitable for Koss Pro DJ 100 too?

post #135 of 708
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcvin View Post

Is this mod method suitable for Koss Pro DJ 100 too?

 

I would think any headphone with a full sized ear cup is ok.

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