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HiFiman HE-500 (HE as in High End) Proving to be an enjoyable experience in listening. . - Page 999

post #14971 of 14984
Quote:
Originally Posted by No_One411 View Post

You should probably change it to 6.3 or 1/4"...

http://www.matrixelectronics.net/matrix-m-stage-headphone-amplifier-amp-black-color-p-190.html

http://tamaudio.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=54

Nowhere does it say that it uses the smaller 3.5 or 1/8" output jack. It used the larger jack when I had it, so that's what you should get unless they changed it recently...
Yep..ur right....oops..cecked an older pic of my amp...i used a small adapter from 1/8 to 1/4 plug., As i used same cable for my laptop...oops...
So he needs big connector/jack.... 6.35mm!!! My apologies for confusion...its been a while since i had my rev.1 m-stage...my bad rolleyes.gif
Edited by hifimanrookie - Yesterday at 1:04 am
post #14972 of 14984

The Lehmann Black Cube Linear was also definitely a 1/4" jack and if the M-stage was a proper clone it better had 1/4" jacks as well!

post #14973 of 14984
Quote:
Originally Posted by No_One411 View Post
 

You should probably change it to 6.3 or 1/4"...

 

http://www.matrixelectronics.net/matrix-m-stage-headphone-amplifier-amp-black-color-p-190.html

 

http://tamaudio.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=54

 

Nowhere does it say that it uses the smaller 3.5 or 1/8" output jack. It used the larger jack when I had it, so that's what you should get unless they changed it recently...

Actually yeah i've looked it up and it is bigger than 3.5, so 6.3 is the same as 1/4 i assume because thats the one who will fit.

post #14974 of 14984
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThurstonX View Post
 

 

That sucks, to be sure, but if you can solder, you can do it.  I've made a few HFM cables, all using their SMC connectors.  It's a tiny little pin in there, but with 2.5 reading glasses and a steady hand, it's not too bad.  Your iron can melt the housing, so mind that.

 

Good luck.

 

Best way to solder them together? I'm a beginner at soldering tbh, spent half hour and as the space is quite small i cant get the tip of the wire to melt with the smc tip (live wire). Soldering the ground to the outside is easy. Any tips? Thanks.

post #14975 of 14984
Quote:
Originally Posted by fluidz View Post
 

Best way to solder them together? I'm a beginner at soldering tbh, spent half hour and as the space is quite small i cant get the tip of the wire to melt with the smc tip (live wire). Soldering the ground to the outside is easy. Any tips? Thanks.

 

I always did the center pin first, as I could always trim the ground wire as needed.  The helping hands stand keeps the cable stable enough.  I suppose it could help to solder the ground first, as the other wire shouldn't move too much.  The trick is to nestle the signal wire into the tiny groove of the center pin.  Might help to tin the wire first.  And use the finest/smallest conical tip for your iron.  It doesn't take much solder to get it to stick.

 

Otherwise, it's just soldering.  I was sloppy a couple times and shorted out the SMC.  Best to test end-to-end with a DMM before finishing up with heat shrink.  Maybe worth practicing on a similarly size piece of metal like a pin or needle.

 

HTH.

post #14976 of 14984
Quote:
Originally Posted by fluidz View Post
 

 

Best way to solder them together? I'm a beginner at soldering tbh, spent half hour and as the space is quite small i cant get the tip of the wire to melt with the smc tip (live wire). Soldering the ground to the outside is easy. Any tips? Thanks.

 

Best tip would be to Google "soldering techniques" - not at "Expert" myself but did you tin both the wire and connector 1st?  I.e Apply solder to wire making sure it flows through all strands, apply solder to pin, THEN join the tinned wire and connector.  If you don't have a "3rd hand" would highly recommend you buy one.  Can get a cheap one from Harbor Freight or similar ....

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/helping-hands-319.html

 

You may also want to post your question in DIY thread - might find an expert with better suggestions :-)

 

http://www.head-fi.org/f/6/diy-do-it-yourself-discussions

post #14977 of 14984

I've been looking for a while to get back into a good pair of cans after selling my HD600s and regretting it several months afterwards.  Wasn't really able to audition anything outside of the 'standard' offering at Magnolia...where I tried B&W P7 and a number of noise-cancelling models because at that time, I was looking for something to use on my train commute.  Flash forward to this Monday and I stumbled on Audio Advisor having the HE500 for $499.  Thought I'd give them a try based on what I've read here.  I have two options for driving them:  PS Audio GCHA or a Peachtree Audio Grand Pre.  Supposedly the PT has a very good headphone amp built in.  I have my doubts.  Anyone have a comment on how either of these will work with the HE500?  Sounds like I should burn them in for at least 50 hours before even giving them a listen?

post #14978 of 14984
Not listening because the phone needs to burn in. That's going way too far IMO.
post #14979 of 14984
There's hardly any burn in with these, they sound great out of the box so why not just enjoy them
post #14980 of 14984
Quote:
Originally Posted by davidsh View Post

Not listening because the phone needs to burn in. That's going way too far IMO.

 

+1  By all means listen to them as soon as you plug them in and as they burn in.  HFM recommends 150 hours for them to reach their potential.  Some people say they hear a difference over time, others not so much.  If you get them, let us know.

post #14981 of 14984
I disagree..although my he500 ( well all my hifiman headphones i owned: he300/400/500 and my woody code-x..especially that last one!)that i had sounded really good from new...my pair did improved soundwise until around 50-70hrs burn in time..after that it was almost unrecognizable to hear if the improvement was brain burn in or actually headphone burn in..as its improvement was minimal after that until around 100hrs..after that..OR my brain was burned in OR my he500 were...
But as always..just as cables and feet and racks...there are two extreme parties here...one who doesnt believe in burn in and the ones who do...just like others dont believe an amp is of any matter in sound experience except for delievering watts..etc. etc.
Edited by hifimanrookie - Yesterday at 3:16 pm
post #14982 of 14984

Mine sounded great straight out of the box, but they do vary a bit before settling down after about 50 hours. I assure you they will wow you straight out of the box!

 

My HE-500s is in a decommissioned state currently, waiting a shipment of new SMC straight jacks so I can rewire the headphone driver. I have to say I really dislike crimp connectors... My wife was so kind to do the fuzzor mod for me on the HE-500 drivers this time round as she is much better at precision work than I am. Looking forward to hearing the result!

 

Would be nice to finally receive my headphone amp so I can stop listening through my AVR. I was surprised at how good the sound was through the Yamaha RX-A3010 headphone output, I couldn't find any specs on it, but it sounded really full and punchy. Again just goes to show, the HE-500s are much more efficient than we typically believe them to be. I guess the lack of dynamics and somewhat brittle sound in my case really boiled down to the poor quality stock cable.

post #14983 of 14984

Obviously I couldn't resist trying them upon getting them!  After all....what kid doesn't want to open presents on Xmas day!!

 

The first 20 or 30 minutes was a bit scary.  I was surprised how tight and lack of life the cans exhibited.  But knowing what I do about how speakers need break in time to open up, I reserved judgment and kept listening......for another 3+ hours!!!  Big difference over that time.  By the end of that first session, I was quite happy with what I heard.  I no longer had my HD600 for a direct comparison, but if my memory is accurate, I'd say the HE500 is much clearer, articulate and produces a more detailed and dynamic range.

 

I switched back and forth a couple of times between the Peachtree and PS Audio.  No definitive call there yet, but I think the PSA has more punch and muscle in the bass region while the PT sounds a bit more open in the top end.  One variable there is that when using the PSA, there is a set of interconnects involved since you have to get the signal from one box to the other.  No connections involved if using the PT alone since the preamp, DAC and headphone amp are all in the same box.  That interconnect can add some coloration to the sound.  I do have the matching PSA Digital Link III coming to pair with the GCHA, so maybe some magical synergy will occur when that gets paired.  The nice thing about the PT is it accepts a 24/192 hi res signal through the USB while the PSA is limited to 14/44 I believe.  I'll keep playing around there.

post #14984 of 14984

anyone knows if is there a way to get the amazon deal with worldwide shipping?

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