Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Headphones (full-size) › HiFiman HE-500 (HE as in High End) Proving to be an enjoyable experience in listening. .
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

HiFiman HE-500 (HE as in High End) Proving to be an enjoyable experience in listening. . - Page 859

post #12871 of 18157
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThurstonX View Post
 

 

Topic?  What topic?  We don't need no steenkeen topic here, man!  ;)

 

On the TRS end I used Red for Right (well... duh! ;-), Blue for Left, and twisted Clear and Black together for Ground.  Above the split (I use amp as Bottom, cans as Top in my descriptions) I have Red and Black going Right, Blue and Clear going Left.  So, no extra conductors above the split, just positive and negative, signal and ground, whatever the proper terms are.  Red and Blue get fed through the center of the SMC connectors to the pins, and the grounds from the TRS (Clear and Black) get soldered to the knurled posts on the SMCs.

 

Here are some pix to help illustrate:

www.head-fi.org/t/676402/diy-cable-questions-and-comments-thread#post_9697477

I meant that the W2799 has four conductors such that two are not needed for the legs above the split. I wanted to know what you did with those wires, Probably not connected.

post #12872 of 18157
Quote:
Originally Posted by StanD View Post
 

I meant that the W2799 has four conductors such that two are not needed for the legs above the split. I wanted to know what you did with those wires, Probably not connected.

 

How are they not needed?  At the TRS end it's like three wires (two twisted together, as noted).  Above the split you've got a pair of wires going Right and a pair going Left.  Both wires in each pair are needed at the SMC (cans) end.

post #12873 of 18157
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThurstonX View Post
 

 

How are they not needed?  At the TRS end it's like three wires (two twisted together, as noted).  Above the split you've got a pair of wires going Right and a pair going Left.  Both wires in each pair are needed at the SMC (cans) end.

Four wires, two for each channel, ground and hot. So of the four wires in the left split you only need two for the connection to the earcup.

When you made the Y connection, it looks like you have W2799 going from there to each cup, thus four wires. Unless you split the wires out at the Y junction and put paracord over each leg and I couldn't tell past the camo effect.

post #12874 of 18157
Quote:
Originally Posted by StanD View Post
 

Four wires, two for each channel, ground and hot. So of the four wires in the left split you only need two for the connection to the earcup.

When you made the Y connection, it looks like you have W2799 going from there to each cup, thus four wires. Unless you split the wires out at the Y junction and put paracord over each leg and I couldn't tell past the camo effect.

 

See, this is where I'm confused: four wires in the left split.  There are two pairs of wires making the top of the Y  So, two wires in left split, two wires in right split.  Here's how I made my cable:

 

At the TRS end (the bottom, so below the split, in my terminology), I have all four wires/conductors soldered to the plug (Blue to Tip, Red to Ring, Clear & Black twisted together and soldered to the Sleeve).  Then, at about 16" from the other end (the top, so above the split), I removed the outer sheath and the braided copper shield, separated the four wires into two twisted pairs (Red & Black; Blue & Clear), ran some paracord over both twisted pairs, then soldered Red & Black to the right SMC connector, and Blue & Clear to the left SMC connector.  Red and Blue go through the hollow part of the SMCs, into the little center "chamber" and onto the pin (for the signal, so I guess that's hot?).  Black and Clear get soldered to the knurled outer part of the post.

 

See that link for some pix.

 

Did I do it wrong?  Well, I don't think so, since it not only works, but sounds great.  Is there a better or more correct way to do it?  I'm all ears.

post #12875 of 18157
Quote:
Originally Posted by StanD View Post
 

Four wires, two for each channel, ground and hot. So of the four wires in the left split you only need two for the connection to the earcup.

When you made the Y connection, it looks like you have W2799 going from there to each cup, thus four wires. Unless you split the wires out at the Y junction and put paracord over each leg and I couldn't tell past the camo effect.

 

FWIW, the pix at the link I posted are not mine, I just found them and used them as a reference.  I think we're talking past each other a bit.  Hope my previous post clears things up.  Probably just a terminology issue...?

post #12876 of 18157
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThurstonX View Post
 

 

See, this is where I'm confused: four wires in the left split.  There are two pairs of wires making the top of the Y  So, two wires in left split, two wires in right split.  Here's how I made my cable:

 

At the TRS end (the bottom, so below the split, in my terminology), I have all four wires/conductors soldered to the plug (Blue to Tip, Red to Ring, Clear & Black twisted together and soldered to the Sleeve).  Then, at about 16" from the other end (the top, so above the split), I removed the outer sheath and the braided copper shield, separated the four wires into two twisted pairs (Red & Black; Blue & Clear), ran some paracord over both twisted pairs, then soldered Red & Black to the right SMC connector, and Blue & Clear to the left SMC connector.  Red and Blue go through the hollow part of the SMCs, into the little center "chamber" and onto the pin (for the signal, so I guess that's hot?).  Black and Clear get soldered to the knurled outer part of the post.

 

See that link for some pix.

 

Did I do it wrong?  Well, I don't think so, since it not only works, but sounds great.  Is there a better or more correct way to do it?  I'm all ears.

Purrfect. I thought that you didn't split the wires out and took two separate runs of W2799 soldereed at the junction, hence extra wires at the earcups. You done the right thing. Looks like Monster cables are finished with their monkey business. Let me guess, you're opening the factory on an Island that's a 3 hour round trip to the mainland. The natives might be hostile, but they need work and are cheap.


Edited by StanD - 3/4/14 at 10:50am
post #12877 of 18157
Quote:
Originally Posted by StanD View Post
 

Purrfect. I thought that you didn't split the wires out and took two separate runs of W2899 soldereed at the junction, hence extra wires at the earcups. You done the right thing. Looks like Monster cables are finished with their monkey business. Let me guess, you're opening the factory on an Island that's a 3 hour round trip to the mainland. The natives might be hostile, but they need work and are cheap.

 

Oh!  Lord no :D  I mean, I like soldering and all, but please ;)

 

Monster cables going under???  Damn, I'd love to open a shop in the Caribbean.  St. Kitts, maybe.  I'd go back to St. Eustatius (did summer archaeology there in the '80s), but it's so damn small.  St. Kitts was fantastic for a weekend "holiday."  Why you gotta go puttin' thoughts in my head??

post #12878 of 18157
Quote:
Originally Posted by ThurstonX View Post
 

 

Oh!  Lord no :D  I mean, I like soldering and all, but please ;)

 

Monster cables going under???  Damn, I'd love to open a shop in the Caribbean.  St. Kitts, maybe.  I'd go back to St. Eustatius (did summer archaeology there in the '80s), but it's so damn small.  St. Kitts was fantastic for a weekend "holiday."  Why you gotta go puttin' thoughts in my head??

The natives do the soldering while you sip a drink in a tall glass with one of them umbrella thingies in it.

Those thoughts can impact your hifi budget.

post #12879 of 18157

Got around to "woodifying" my HE-500s.  Didn't do anything to the sound but they sure do look nice. 

 

 

 

post #12880 of 18157

Gorgeous.  I'd say not affecting the sound is a good thing.  Did you make them or buy them?  What was the difficulty level of swapping stock for those, roughly speaking?

post #12881 of 18157

The wood cups I bought from another head-fier (MonkeyNutz).  I'd say putting it together is moderately difficult.  The screws on the yoke are really soft and strip really easily, and after emailing HiFiMAN directly found out they use some sort adhesive so they are a pain to remove.  I just bored them out with a drill.  The other tricky thing was the cable connector, it's epoxied in place and that was also a pain to remove.  I think you just have to be relatively handy and not squeemish about tearing apart some (relatively) expensive headphones. 

post #12882 of 18157
Quote:
Originally Posted by kard16 View Post
 

The wood cups I bought from another head-fier (MonkeyNutz).  I'd say putting it together is moderately difficult.  The screws on the yoke are really soft and strip really easily, and after emailing HiFiMAN directly found out they use some sort adhesive so they are a pain to remove.  I just bored them out with a drill.  The other tricky thing was the cable connector, it's epoxied in place and that was also a pain to remove.  I think you just have to be relatively handy and not squeemish about tearing apart some (relatively) expensive headphones. 

 

Ah yes, I couldn't remember his name.  Thanks for the explanation.

post #12883 of 18157

Also, I ended up cutting the wires (for the ground wire right at the connector and the other wire under the black shrink wrap) to make it easier to work with and then soldered them back together.  While you can get by without one, a soldering iron is nice to have.  

post #12884 of 18157

The wood doesn't look as good as I would want it to... I was considering buying them, he offered me $80 for a pair, but I turned it down as I don't think they are really worth the price to me. I like the original look, and if going woody I would want something similar to Martin's work.

 

I will say that you are very brave to tear it apart and do that. Excellent job, and if you are desperate for that woody look, this is a very affordable way to do it.

post #12885 of 18157
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nimzerz View Post
 

The wood doesn't look as good as I would want it to... I was considering buying them, he offered me $80 for a pair, but I turned it down as I don't think they are really worth the price to me. I like the original look, and if going woody I would want something similar to Martin's work.

 

I will say that you are very brave to tear it apart and do that. Excellent job, and if you are desperate for that woody look, this is a very affordable way to do it.

The wood looks a lot better with a generous amount of tung oil.  I did 7 coats (first two coats were 50/50 tung oil and mineral spirits and the remaining coats were pure tung oil).  I used 600 grit sand paper to rub in the tung oil and waited 24 hours between coats.  It improved the look by quite a bit.

 

But I agree, mango wood isn't an ideal choice but I guess it's readily available where MonkeyNutz lives.  I would have preferred walnut or maple.  I might take a wood turning class this summer so who knows, maybe I'll try to make some myself.


Edited by kard16 - 3/4/14 at 6:29pm
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Headphones (full-size)
Head-Fi.org › Forums › Equipment Forums › Headphones (full-size) › HiFiman HE-500 (HE as in High End) Proving to be an enjoyable experience in listening. .