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What is a T-Amp? - Page 2

post #16 of 22
4/24/11 at 6:40am

Nobody mentioned Trends Audio, few years ago you could find many reviews about TA 10 amp, looks like they're more expensive than they were before.

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post #17 of 22
4/24/11 at 10:19am

Thanks for the direct ETAHL. For the box and load resistors you mentioned below, as from the spec of some T-amps. It's output already in 8ohm, why there is another 8 or 6 ohm, 10 watts load resistors need? And you mean parellal of each channel, is it one end of a resistor to each pole of each channel? Would you mind draw a simple diagram of this, many thanks.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by ETAHL View Post

 

1000x500px-LL-f3999406_CIMG0295.jpg

This would be ideal for the T-amp. Inside the box, I would hook up an 8 ohm, 10 watt load resistor in parallel of each channel.

T-amp works best with the proper loading. For a flat frequency response from a T-amp, 6 ohm loading is ideal.


 


Edited by dannie01 - 4/24/11 at 10:42am
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post #18 of 22
4/24/11 at 10:56am

The main reason class T (D) amps do not find favor with so called audiophile types is the fact that most of the T designs leave a lot to be desired in the HF end of the spectrum....very few designers have been able to overcome that sonic deficiency in the HF's...that being said Rowland and Bel Canto do make some seriously good Class D amps and advances in circuit design have vastly improved earlier attempts often within the same brand's line up...they also cost a fortume however. In the end if you like the Class D sound signature then there is nothing wrong with settling on one. I have a pair of A/B class D amps myself and although they do a great job (strictly mid fi) they fall well short of my main SS or tube amps in my system. As always YMMV.

 

There is no right or wrong in this game just combinations that either work well together or they don't. The hard part is finding out which gear combo compliments your choices the best.

 

Peete.

 

 

 

 


Edited by Pricklely Peete - 4/24/11 at 10:57am
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post #19 of 22
4/24/11 at 11:58am


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by ProtegeManiac View Post

What I'd like to see are portable headphone amps using Full-range Class D chips. If the T-Amps for speakers can be powered by a handful of AA batteries, why not a 9v Alkaline/NiMH or a 12v Li-Ion? It could potentially have a longer battery lfe without sacrificing current response on Class A/B opamp designs.

 

In any case, anyone tried a T-Amp with an HD600?


I don't see why not. I have seen some very low power class D amp for portable speakers. It is tough to beat their efficiency.

I am presently using a $30 Walmart 12V 300A car booster pack to power my T2020 amp and LCD-2. I can tell you that it last a very long time between charges.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by dannie01 View Post

Thanks for the direct ETAHL. For the box and load resistors you mentioned below, as from the spec of some T-amps. It's output already in 8ohm, why there is another 8 or 6 ohm, 10 watts load resistors need? And you mean parallel of each channel, is it one end of a resistor to each pole of each channel? Would you mind draw a simple diagram of this, many thanks.

 

 

Yes, add another 8 ohm resistor between each pole of each channel. Just like hooking up another set speakers, but instead of speakers, they are resistors. The LCD-2 is 50 ohm. The 8 ohm resistors and the LCD-2 are about a 6.9 ohm load paralleled.

T-amps use a LC filter network to remove the very high modulating frequency. Without loading, there is a boost in the high frequencies. At 8 ohm loading there is a slight boost. I simulated the LC filter network in LTSpice; the flattest response is from a 5 ohm load, that would be about the loading of a LCD-2 with a 5.6 ohm resistor in parallel.

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pricklely Peete View Post

The main reason class T (D) amps do not find favor with so called audiophile types is the fact that most of the T designs leave a lot to be desired in the HF end of the spectrum....very few designers have been able to overcome that sonic deficiency in the HF's...that being said Rowland and Bel Canto do make some seriously good Class D amps and advances in circuit design have vastly improved earlier attempts often within the same brand's line up...they also cost a fortume however. In the end if you like the Class D sound signature then there is nothing wrong with settling on one. I have a pair of A/B class D amps myself and although they do a great job (strictly mid fi) they fall well short of my main SS or tube amps in my system. As always YMMV.

 

There is no right or wrong in this game just combinations that either work well together or they don't. The hard part is finding out which gear combo compliments your choices the best.

 

Peete.

 

 

 

 

 

The beauty of these T-amps is that they are so affordable and compact. The best experience is your own, pickup a TA2020 amp and give it a try. Use it for your office or bedroom if it isn't up to your expectations.
 

 


Edited by ETAHL - 4/24/11 at 12:06pm
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post #20 of 22
4/24/11 at 1:02pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ETAHL View Post

I am a DIY guy, so I have no clue who to recommend. Maybe someone might chime in with a good recommendation. If you are not using anything exotic, I can't see it costing too much. As a DIY project, it is about $30 to $50 worth of wires and connectors.

 

The Virtue Audio amps are way over kill for headphone use. Far more power than needed, unless you are using it for speakers.

As for caps, I am don't see much benefit of boutique caps. As long as they are good quality film caps, they sound very similar. The input caps used in the Muse M20 and the S.M.S.L SA36 are good enough quality that they won't be a weak link in the audio system.

 


I was thinking about getting some desktop monitors or floorstanding Magnepans sometime in the future, so I thought it might not be a bad idea to grab something that could drive those as well.  I can see the advantage in getting the two models you mentioned though, as the price is far less than what they're selling at the Virtue Audio website.  There's a listing for a TWO.2 on Audiogon right now (appears to be a demo model).  If I can get it for cheap, I'll grab it up.  Otherwise I'll look into one of the two you mentioned.

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post #21 of 22
4/24/11 at 1:42pm


 

Quote:
Originally Posted by ETAHL View Post


 


I don't see why not. I have seen some very low power class D amp for portable speakers. It is tough to beat their efficiency.

I am presently using a $30 Walmart 12V 300A car booster pack to power my T2020 amp and LCD-2. I can tell you that it last a very long time between charges.

 

 

 

Yes, add another 8 ohm resistor between each pole of each channel. Just like hooking up another set speakers, but instead of speakers, they are resistors. The LCD-2 is 50 ohm. The 8 ohm resistors and the LCD-2 are about a 6.9 ohm load paralleled.

T-amps use a LC filter network to remove the very high modulating frequency. Without loading, there is a boost in the high frequencies. At 8 ohm loading there is a slight boost. I simulated the LC filter network in LTSpice; the flattest response is from a 5 ohm load, that would be about the loading of a LCD-2 with a 5.6 ohm resistor in parallel.

 

The beauty of these T-amps is that they are so affordable and compact. The best experience is your own, pickup a TA2020 amp and give it a try. Use it for your office or bedroom if it isn't up to your expectations.
 

 


Agreed...but I need another set of amps like a hole in the head....the Tripath amps I already have (are a combo Class D A/B hybrid 150W RMS) are pretty good but they have already been relegated to second class status after direct comparisons to my main amps. The bedroom system does not exist as of yet....I spend all of my time with the main ref setup since I usually get tired of listening to anything else fairly quickly knowing I have better in the man cave normal_smile%20.gif  That being said in order to better my main amps I'd have to outlay a fair amount of cash for a set of Jeff Rowland mono blocks or Bel Canto's latest offerings...at that price point I'd rather sink that money into a set of Rogue Audio M180 tube mono blocks to be frank. Class D amps and planar/ribbon main speakers panels are a not a great match, certainly nowhere near as good as beefy Class A SS amp or all tube mono block. These are just my preference........in my experience SS amps and planar/ribbons are a finicky couple to get right.

 

Peete.

 

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post #22 of 22
4/25/11 at 9:34am

Thanks ETAHL for the detail explanation. Will grap one and give it a try.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by ETAHL View Post

 

Yes, add another 8 ohm resistor between each pole of each channel. Just like hooking up another set speakers, but instead of speakers, they are resistors. The LCD-2 is 50 ohm. The 8 ohm resistors and the LCD-2 are about a 6.9 ohm load paralleled.

T-amps use a LC filter network to remove the very high modulating frequency. Without loading, there is a boost in the high frequencies. At 8 ohm loading there is a slight boost. I simulated the LC filter network in LTSpice; the flattest response is from a 5 ohm load, that would be about the loading of a LCD-2 with a 5.6 ohm resistor in parallel.

 

The beauty of these T-amps is that they are so affordable and compact. The best experience is your own, pickup a TA2020 amp and give it a try. Use it for your office or bedroom if it isn't up to your expectations.
 

 



 

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