Which receiver headphone outputs excel with LCD-2s?

Using a Marantz 1060B at home and a Tweak City Audio Gizmo at work.  Out of the Marantz headphone jack, it's good.  Out of the speaker taps, it's fantastic.  The Gizmo is also directly out of the speaker taps, and has plenty of power to drive them.  

IMO your HK 930 has a great amp section & is prolly one of the better receiver of its ilk. not much interms of raw output power but whatever it has, its the goodstuff with serious current capabilities. if the headphone jack doesnt do it for u, just drive it thru the speaker taps via a XLR (or whatever end the LCD2 has) to 4speaker wires/pins pigtail cable.

 

not having heard Lyr i could be very well be talking shiit (pun intended) but baring any synergistic imcompatibility, IMO your HK 930 will give the Lyr (& any other shiit for that matter) a good run for the money so save your coin & try it out the speaker taps 1st.

 

O & i dont believe u need to hookup a parallel resistor (round 10ohms 10w if u must) for a SS amp. u mite not have much vol headroom to play with  but i think it'll be just fine amped direct > speaker taps.

Edited by scottiebabie - 4/22/11 at 2:12pm

Try an inexpensive T-amp. They sound fantastic, better than my modded Matrix M-Stage. They only cost about $50 and is very compact; there are tons of them to choose from on eBay.

You do need to use a balanced connector cable with an adapter to banana plugs, so you can connect to the speaker out connectors.

You also need to add a 6 to 8 ohm parallel load resistor to each channel for best performance.

 

See my thread:

http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/548694/t-amp-audeze-lcd-2-surprise

Anybody know where you can get a LCD-2 banana plug cable for cheap?

i agree with scottie. using the back of the speaker taps be your best bet. i wouldn't bother using any resistors in between either cause you be going the same route as using the receivers headphone jack. most if all vintage receivers use a simple resistor for both the left and right channel between the headphone out and power amp section for the speakers so adding a resistor box or whatever while using the speaker taps is pretty much pointless. if you want to go that route. just swap the resistors for the headphone jack of different values. it'll be the same as making a DIY speaker tap box.

just drive straight from the speaker taps. these amps have more then enough current and voltages behind the speaker taps to power about any headphone on the planet without no where near running out of juice.

 

They are using a separate HP op amp, not actually using the T-amp for headphone out.

To use the actual T-amp, you need to use the speaker out connections. T-amps cannot have a common ground, so you cannot use the usual 3.5 or 6mm three contact headphone plugs. You have to have a special cable, or modified the cable to hookup each headphone driver to the T-amp like you would a pair of speakers.

 

You do not need to spend that much on the T-amp with the extra options, an inexpensive basic one like this will do just as well:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/TA2020-Class-T-Amp-Amplifier-Tripath-Chip-SA-36-Silve-/190515121016?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item2c5b960b78